Outer Limits 4x4 Board

maybe thinking of doing it just a 2inch lift is all,would love to know what has to be done to acheive it eg, extend anything like shifters ,breaklines radiator hoses etc? ill make up some brackets to lift bullbar and ill have to extend transfer lever as the f78's are damn small , any one got any pics of it done , i already checked the faqs and noones asked this before ,
cheers for any info

anyone?

There is a bit of stuffing around with shifters, fuel filler lines, bumpers some vacuum lines, radiator hoses and steering column if you go too high, but all can be overcome eventually.

Bullbar AND rear bumper will need to be moved up to suit the lift.

The big question is, why do you want the extra bodylift? You can't go and fit 33" tyres due to the crappy gearing, so I can't see much point.

The only real advantage would be to drop the suspension lift back to normal height, and use the body lift as the ONLY form of lift, as your IFS would function much better.
You also need engineering for a bodylift.

main reason is for front as tyres rub on full flex and have been told with torsion bar wind up that will loose functionalit of front suspension system , if theres an easier way by all means throw your ideas

What are they rubbing on?

If its just the guards, chop away.

Choppy Chop

I've cut a heap of my guard away, and it STILL rubs up front but only when hitting a bottom of a dune or similar at speed on the beach.
Out comes the grinder again soon one thinks.

thats exactly my prob man , last few beach trips bottom of dune i hit it then bang stupid noise , so even with torsion bars wound up still smacks it well thats crap, got an email back from 4wdsystems, and apart from bull bar ,rear bar and transfer lever , he reckons that brake lines should be fine and that only other modification would be the bottom of fan shroud, so still thinkn bout it but if i could sort the prob out another way thatd be great. would after market torsion bars help?

kemal wrote: would after market torsion bars help?

Not really, you don't gain any more travel with HD torsion bars. The only thing is they have a heavier spring rate, would COULD stop it from compressing up as far, but not likely.

i see , which brings me to my next question does anyone run aftermarket torsion bars up front ,would like to know if they still have this prob or not?

I have aftermarket FEROZA torsion bars ( and I've never seen any current references to Daihatsu bars for ANY model ) and it simply makes a stockie stiffer.

Mine are fitted for VERY specific reasons and if done to a stockie would simply result in a harsher ride and a postponement of the inevitable "bang"...

Not really a solution and I'd be surprised if you could still get them.

Fix the problem....

how so can i fix it? cut gaurd or body lift ? and yes you can get aftermarket rocky torsion bars have gotten qoutes from tough dog

and where do the tyres actually touch... solution depends on the problem....

inner gaurd

Then you have four options - Bodylift, ball joint spacing, bump stop spacing or different wheel offsets

Bodylift is the quickest in some ways except for visual stuff like bumpers etc etc...

Personally I'd keep it to a minimum, remove one of the torsion bars and jack the wheel up to see exactly how much interference there is. Don't forget the top bump stop will compress very heavily so need to make a generous allowance for it.

Ball joint spacing is more "professional" and gives you more ground clearance but will probably be limited to around 20+ mm which may not be enough and its more difficult to do without some basic workshop facilities.

Bump stop spacing moves the top bump stop down ( limits upwards movement ) and thus avoids the problem. Probably usefull if the wheels only just touch. You loose bump travel however, but this isnt as detrimental to off road performance as loosing droop travel.

Changing the wheel offset will move the whells out and away from the inner guard - but it reqires spacers ( which IMO are VERY UNSATISFACTORY ) or different wheels or mods to your existing if they are steel.

I use -23mm wheels and it hits on the inside of the flare, so spacing outwards is not an option for curing a rubbage issue.

Contacting on the inner guard is a good effort, mine didn't seem to go close at all when I had stock wheels on.

mmm loads of options i see,

kemal wrote:mmm loads of options i see,

Easiest option is to put up with it

Extending bump stops is by far the easiest option, but you will limit the amount of uptravel you are getting.

I've looked at the ball joints on the Rocky's and don't think it is easy or possible to flip or space them very easily.

nah ill have to take care of it little things like that piss me off when driving lol ,