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motor option?
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 4:31 pm
by germo
Ok I know this may start a major debate, but thats what I love about this forum.
has anyone here got a rotory in a zuk or know of anyone? the idea has been playing in my head for ages. they are cheap light wieght. ok they may not have big torque but how much does a 1.3 have?
I found this site
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1261/index3a8.html
interested to know what people think!
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 4:35 pm
by greg
have a little search Germo - this was discussed a little while ago and there is at least one person on there (1madengineer i think) who has had rotary motors in his zook. If i remember correctly - he thought it was the best thing ever.
Cheers
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 4:42 pm
by Dawg
was discussing this with TonkaTuff (he has had a lot of rotary racers) the other day and we came to the conclusion that they are a bit twitchy for the rigors of wheelin'. By that I mean that the older, affordable motors need a lot of maintenance and if they go, they go big - so it’s not good for remote areas. Power to weight is awesome though, perfect for a zook if you can make it reliable
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 4:44 pm
by greg
Big Steve was talking about running a Rotary with a Turbo - but i think that is very much only in the dreaming stage
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 11:10 pm
by Guy
Dawg wrote:was discussing this with TonkaTuff (he has had a lot of rotary racers) the other day and we came to the conclusion that they are a bit twitchy for the rigors of wheelin'. By that I mean that the older, affordable motors need a lot of maintenance and if they go, they go big - so it’s not good for remote areas. Power to weight is awesome though, perfect for a zook if you can make it reliable
Sounds like a Zuk 1.3 or 1.6 to me.. they are tough liitle nuts ,, but it seems when they decide to crack .. they do so big time
I rekon it's a great idea ... one day when I get some space time etc .. i would love to do this exact swap .. do a bit of searchin the Zuk section under 1madengineer and rotary .. you will find alot of good iinfo .. ( as well as a few more Zuk\rotary links)
Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:11 pm
by germo
ok thanks. I didn't run a search (don't yell) I know I shold have.
I have been here basically everyday since I started and I havn't noticed anyone mention a rotary, even when they ask about motor swaps.
I reckon with the right gearing and yes a reliable setup it could be a goer, maybe the LJ can have one of these once the my red beast is too damaged and I have to use the LJ body. I am keen to kill my red car so I can finaly make the LJ.
Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 5:11 pm
by grimbo
germo wrote:the right gearing and yes a reliable setup it could be a goer
that is the main thing to try and make it behave at slow speeds and approprite gearing will help achieve that. Before rockhoppers and diff gears were readily available at good prices it probably wasn't a usable option but now.....
The only thing is to try and get a newish engine that hasn't been thrashed to an inch of its life by some boy racer
Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 4:26 pm
by germo
yeah if I were to do it I would prob buy an old car with motor, most likely just get a half cut though.
and I'm pretty sure that "short motor" rotary are very cheap from jap. so just get the half cut in and running right and just buy a short motor, when it blows up. it would be cheaper than rebuild.
ashley
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 7:50 am
by bigsteve
You can pick up import rotarties with computer for betweem 1-2k.
I'd go for the turbo or injected 6port 13b or for me preferably the 12a turbo, I think you would have to gear it with a 6:1 and 5:12's. And not play withe the porting too much (Mild port at most)
Despite the constant slander the later model engines, (After the twin dizzy 12a) are reliable, I know of ones with 150,000 on the clock. You just have to be able to keep the oil up to them.
FYI I blew a rotor, housing and 2 plates in my old car through lack of oil + 40 degree day and the rebuild cost me $1000.
Most people dont warm the engine up enough so thats what kills them, the Steel/alloy/steel/alloy/steel warm up at differnet speeds so you want to make sure both types are at operating temp b4 you kane it.