Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Gday guys im after a stainless steel snorkal for a gq 3litre were can i get these from and how much.? and are they much more $$ than the plastic snorkles thanks daniel.

DANIEL.LUX wrote:Gday guys im after a stainless steel snorkal for a gq 3litre were can i get these from and how much.? and are they much more $$ than the plastic snorkles thanks daniel.

best bet to ring a exhaust shop. my dad got quoted i think it was 220 for a stainless 3 inch mandrel bent snorkel to be made to suit.

google millweld he sells them & they look good

the 4'' inch stainless steel will cost about $80 bucks for 2mts from a steel place in settelment rd melbourne, (sorry cant think of the name)
& the 4'' inch rubber angles are $30 bucks each from coburg truck parts,
then you just need a few stainless bolts & the rubber pipe to the
air cleaner..
if you do it yourself it wont cost u much at all, alot cheaper than the
safari snorkels & look tougher too.

is it easy enough to adapt a stainless snorkel to a gu airbox or do you need a new airbox also apart from the looks are there any differences between a stainless snorkel and a safari snorkel?

These may help

http://www.mudrhino.com.au/Docs/DIY3.pdf

and

http://www.millweld.com/?stg=41

Something you may also be able to do is get a air fillter adapter for your model from TJM or Safari (I just got one off nissan for the TJM snorkle). You could then use that as the connection between yours and the air intake.

Safari parts are at:
http://www.safarisnorkel.com/snorkel/ss ... hf-vpc.htm

has anyone got a photo of theres? (close up)
wats the best method of attaching to the pillar?

tanz-e wrote:has anyone got a photo of theres? (close up)
wats the best method of attaching to the pillar?

not stainless and not real close but all the same
and to attatch to the pillar i used the connection/ plastic plugs from the safari snorkle previously fitted

this is mine



It is 4" to the guard then is blanked off in the shape of the guard. Then goes in as 3" to the original air box (modified to suit) this is so i could just cut 3 and a bit inch hole in the guard.

It is attached with a little tab bolted through the guard about 200 back from front elbow and has a bracket with 3 screws into the pillar.

This is one i made for mates comp truck (which went up in the bush fires) but still usable even after 2 roll overs


can be made for modest fee
Cheers Damo

yours looks good with the weld showing, never seen it done like that but always wondered wat it would look like.
looks sweet

here's mine 3"

cheap 3" bends from here http://www.enthaily.com.au/


http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2 ... =644794103

this is how i did mine i just bent a piece of flat steal to the shape i needed and attached it to the snorkel with stainless rivets and screwed it into the A pillar

sorry no pics but I welded a plate on that sits behind the electric mirror that srcews on to the pillar, you cann't even see it unless you look hard. again sorry no pics

Brothers, it wasn't cheap though.

He didn't want it to come in right at the front of the guard, dunno if it cost more cause of it.

i made mine out of three inch stainless it costy about $50 a meter you need about 2.5 from memory and used rubber bends 2x 25 degre and 1 90 degre. the best thing is that the three inch is extremely easy to adapt to the standard air intake you just need to take out the plastic air intake that is located inside the gard and use a pice of pipe to join the snorkel to the origional intak. this way you keep the air intake standard witch in my apionin standard is best. good luck and i got away with it for about $200 which i think is prity good cocidering a PLASTIC safari is about $450

just remembered get on mudrhino.com.au it has a diy one

im doing a 4 inch stainless snorkel for my shorty soon. had ta order the bends on friday and they are about 30 bucks a bend and the stainless shouldnt be to far away. you dnt have to use stainless, if u wanted to use 100mm pvc and paint it no one would ever know, or even mild steel as long as u paint inside aswell as out. i did a 3 inch snorkel for my zook with welded mandrel bends, come up awesome but didnt have to pay for stainless. dear shite if u gota pay 4 it

This is my one.

you can make one cheaper than buying one. I made mine from 4 inch alloy pipe. 100 bucks cheaper per metre than stainless and lighter just get some rubber bends from a truck parts shop and cut your holes etc.

I dont know what your talking about mate i payed $80 for 2 meters of polishes stainless from Tubesales in Thomastown, Vic

I agree man they seen you comin if thats what they wanted you ta pay.
I could get half a length for what you reckon you could save.

yeah same here, only paid $80 something from thomastown as well. bends from coburg truck parts on sydney rd.

all up about $230 and got some 4'' exaust tube and welded it to the filter box and used some spring lined flexi hose , it's attached to the piller with a stainless pltae thats welded on and 3 screws it hits shit all the time without any hassel

Or you could just buy this one, 3" S/S Welded, Only need 1 x 3" Rubber bend to join straight into the airbox, Can be in Mornington.
PM me if your keen.

so who had run a fully air tight snorkal to the fully air tight airbox, to the fully air tight turbo?

ive considered doing it, and will, when i get time, to make my own, and make it air tight all the way through, but the issue is, what about when rain goes down the spout or a big mud puddle and you launch a flood of water down the snorkel, where does it come out?

i considered having a drain in the lowest point that gets left out, but that seems fiddly, dont want the factory air intake setup with the cyclonic box at the gaurd with a big hole in the bottom, so not entirely sure whether the plug in the lowest point is the best idea or not?
at the moment running no snorkel so i know i can run water to top of motor and no further, seems better than the factory airbox inside the gaurd which is much lower...

cheers, andy

love ke70 wrote:so who had run a fully air tight snorkal to the fully air tight airbox, to the fully air tight turbo?

ive considered doing it, and will, when i get time, to make my own, and make it air tight all the way through, but the issue is, what about when rain goes down the spout or a big mud puddle and you launch a flood of water down the snorkel, where does it come out?

i considered having a drain in the lowest point that gets left out, but that seems fiddly, dont want the factory air intake setup with the cyclonic box at the gaurd with a big hole in the bottom, so not entirely sure whether the plug in the lowest point is the best idea or not?
at the moment running no snorkel so i know i can run water to top of motor and no further, seems better than the factory airbox inside the gaurd which is much lower...

cheers, andy

One way valve at the bottom?

where and how? there would be no force to push the water out, and constant suction til you turn the motor off, so the water would not drain?

love ke70 wrote:where and how? there would be no force to push the water out, and constant suction til you turn the motor off, so the water would not drain?

My Hilux doesn't have a pre filter, so I don't know whater would go then.

The brothers up the page goes straight to the filter, and he hasn't had any problems......yet.

Will see if he can put up a under bonnet shot.

that would be good if you could

twin 3" on my GQ