Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys

I just put some spotlights on and did the wiring it all working good no problem looks good.... then all a sudden my all indicator and left rear break lights don't work but everything else works.
What i did was connected the wires from the head light to a 5 point relay then to spotties and how all wires should be connected from the back of the packet. i undo all the wirings to see if it was the problem but it still didn't work....i have already check the fuse box they are all good no broken fuse I'm so frustrated i cant fig out what the problem is I'm no electrical bloke but I'm trying to learn about it tho.i cant drive it on the road with this problem.

thanks you for your time trying to help me.
Drover

IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE PLEASE......

drover wrote:Hey guys

I just put some spotlights on and did the wiring it all working good no problem looks good.... then all a sudden my all indicator and left rear break lights don't work but everything else works.
What i did was connected the wires from the head light to a 5 point relay then to spotties and how all wires should be connected from the back of the packet. i undo all the wirings to see if it was the problem but it still didn't work....i have already check the fuse box they are all good no broken fuse I'm so frustrated i cant fig out what the problem is I'm no electrical bloke but I'm trying to learn about it tho.i cant drive it on the road with this problem.

thanks you for your time trying to help me.
Drover

IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE PLEASE......

have u searched? Zooks have negative switching btw

sounds also like ur earths are up a creek.

Suzi's use negative switching which complicates things a bit.
I can't remember where I found it but heres how to wire a relay so the spotties work with high beam.

On the rear of the driver's side headlight locate the red wire with silver bands around it,

if you have a 12V electrical tester check that this wire is positive when the headlights are on and it then peculiarly goes

to negative when highbeam is on.

Clip a Scotchblock (or solder) onto this wire with a piece of wire in it long enough to

reach back to where you are going to

locate the relay, and attach this wire to terminal number 85.

This will be the "trigger" for the relay, the relay will always have a

positive feed to the normal trigger,

and live going to the "switch" of the relay for the auxiliary spots,

so the relay will click closed only when the earth terminal gets a negative feed

(as it will normally be positive... "d'oh! my head hurts Marge!").


Take a wire off the battery's live terminal and with an inline fuse holder connect it to terminals 86 and 87,

these are the normal trigger and the input terminal of the relays switch.

Connect a wire from terminal 30 - the switched output of the relay - and connect this to the positive wire of your spotlights,
the spotlights should also be earthed to either the vehicles body or chassis, or an existing earth point

(probably the best idea I've found).

Hmm, and that's it... when you put your headlights on the wire coming from the Scothchblock attached to the red wire

with silver bands will be positive, so the relay will not click closed.

However when you "flash" your headlights or switch to mainbeam,

that red wire with the silver bands will drop from positive to negative, then, as the relay now has an earth it

will click closed and switch the positive feed to the spotlights on...

and your spots will come on so you can flash other roadusers, or when you're offroad in the dark, etc...

Ok?


Jas.

thanks guys it help with some of that ideas now it working cheers

Is this info in the bible yet? If not can we please add it?

want33s wrote:Suzi's use negative switching which complicates things a bit.
I can't remember where I found it but heres how to wire a relay so the spotties work with high beam.

On the rear of the driver's side headlight locate the red wire with silver bands around it,

if you have a 12V electrical tester check that this wire is positive when the headlights are on and it then peculiarly goes

to negative when highbeam is on.

Clip a Scotchblock (or solder) onto this wire with a piece of wire in it long enough to

reach back to where you are going to

locate the relay, and attach this wire to terminal number 85.

This will be the "trigger" for the relay, the relay will always have a

positive feed to the normal trigger,

and live going to the "switch" of the relay for the auxiliary spots,

so the relay will click closed only when the earth terminal gets a negative feed

(as it will normally be positive... "d'oh! my head hurts Marge!").


Take a wire off the battery's live terminal and with an inline fuse holder connect it to terminals 86 and 87,

these are the normal trigger and the input terminal of the relays switch.

Connect a wire from terminal 30 - the switched output of the relay - and connect this to the positive wire of your spotlights,
the spotlights should also be earthed to either the vehicles body or chassis, or an existing earth point

(probably the best idea I've found).

Hmm, and that's it... when you put your headlights on the wire coming from the Scothchblock attached to the red wire

with silver bands will be positive, so the relay will not click closed.

However when you "flash" your headlights or switch to mainbeam,

that red wire with the silver bands will drop from positive to negative, then, as the relay now has an earth it

will click closed and switch the positive feed to the spotlights on...

and your spots will come on so you can flash other roadusers, or when you're offroad in the dark, etc...

Ok?


Jas.

Ok, because I know bugger all about relays

Following the above instructions to wire up 2 spotties can I just run them both off terminal 30 or do I need to have 2 relays ??

On the plus side the plug on the stock drviers headlight was labeled Driving, passing and ground wire to make life easier

The 87 pin out is the one you want. If it is a 5 pin relay they will be marked 87 & 87a.

30 is the pin for permanent power ie: battery

ScrawnC wrote:The 87 pin out is the one you want. If it is a 5 pin relay they will be marked 87 & 87a.

30 is the pin for permanent power ie: battery

I understand thats how its done normally, but will that work with the zooks negative switching ? I have wired them up as want33's posted, connecting the positive on one spottie to the positve on the other and they seem to be working, not that I have had them on long enough to heat anything up yet

Yes hook both spotlights to pin 30.
It isn't the normal way .. it's ass about but so is Zook wiring.
Jas.

It doesn't matter which way round you run them, but if you run permanent power to pin 30 and spottie feeds from pins 87 & 87a then you can have them seperate.
It won't affect anything by joining the 2 spottie power feeds together though.

The negative switching doesn't affect the way you wire pins 30 and 87.

Cheers guys

if its got 87a on it, it is a dual through relay. meaning that one light will be on when the other is off. you need to wire them both to the 87, however some 5 pin relays are actually two 87s and not 87 & 87a.

mr green wrote:if its got 87a on it, it is a dual through relay. meaning that one light will be on when the other is off. you need to wire them both to the 87, however some 5 pin relays are actually two 87s and not 87 & 87a.

beg you pardon, you're right. They're called Change-over relays. It's been a while since I've looked at one so I was trying to remember the numbers

This will help explain it better http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages ... basics.htm

GRPABT1 wrote:Is this info in the bible yet? If not can we please add it?

Done - under electrical

Layto....

This is a general rule for any vehicle with H4 headlight bulbs. Connect pin 30 to the battery feed, Pin 87 to Both the spotlights. Pin 87a to nothing. Pin 86 to one of the vertical pin wires on one light, Pin 85 to the other vertical pin of the bulb and through the switch on the dash. Using either side of the H4 bulb vertical pins as the feeds means it can be done with both positive switched and negative switched systems.

I wired up my spot lights today, following want33's directions.

Amazing! they work!

But what i did find was, the "red with silver bands wire behind the driver side headlight" didn't seem right in my case. The only wire which switched from 12v+ with headlight on, to earth with high beams on was a "red with blue/green bands on passenger side headlight"

Maybe want33's direction are for a LHD model?
Mine is a 90 model 1.3 sierra.

Anyway, thanks so much for this info, save me a lot of work. Didn't know about the whole negative switching deal till i read this.

I do have one question tho. I used a relay with built in 30A Fuse. As zook wiring is a bit weird, and the relay is not technically wired up correctly, is the fuse still protecting the right wires??

Mike

Does anyone have a wiring diagram to add to this bible'd thread?

Not mine. Stole off auszookers. This is headlight loom / spotty upgrade. like Pirahna loom upgrade.

BAZZOOK wrote:Not mine. Stole off auszookers. This is headlight loom / spotty upgrade. like Pirahna loom upgrade.

Followed this diagram over the last week to prep for 90/100W 4's. Worked first go.

Hint.
Two lengths of 4mm 7-core trailer wire do all of the lower current sections (pins 86, 87 and 85 on relays to destination) It's already double insulated and looks much neater.