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rear spring up front
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:11 pm
by ajsr
hi guys
new to this forum
can anyone tell me what is required to do a rear spring up front?
I wish to run a drop shackle system front and rear
can I use rear suzuki springs in both ends without any conflict between ends
specs so far are-
spring over
2" lift
32's on custom 8" rim all offset to outside
6.5 :1 rock crawler gears
lockrights front and rear
any advice would be tops
Ive been told that with drop shackles the rears will just bolt in ok as the drops move the mounting point forwards 50 mm is this true?
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:43 pm
by NIK
I wont comment on drop shackles as I havnt used them but Im sure someone else will!
But from what if read and seen drop shackles and ruf were the basis of the original "missing link" set up.
Nik
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:47 pm
by ajsr
thanks nik
how did you do you ruf?
and how did you get 35's under?
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:00 pm
by GRPABT1
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:11 pm
by Gwagensteve
ajsr - With your setup what do you want to achieve with RUF? Most of the advantages of RUF won't be apparent with your current /planned setup.
Without seeing your car and seeing what work has already been done to it it's hard to say what's going to be required. Basically, RUF moves the axle forward 40mm as the spring is 80mm longer overall, but without seeing what's been done to your shock mounts, bumpstops, steering etc it's impossible to know what's involved for you.
However: Rear springs have a much lower rate and more free arch than front springs. With a SPOA, you need a stiffer than stock spring for control axle wrap. Adding a longer, softer front spring in a SPOA application, then freeing it up even more with a drop shackle, is IMHO the exact opposite of what you'd want to drive off road in Victoria. It's going to be too tall and floppy.
I've built about 6 RUF setups and they do work very well, but they are a lot of work. It sounds like your looking for a bolt on solution. IMHO, they're not going to be that. Please outline why you want RUF on your current car and we might be able to advise better.
Steve.
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:39 pm
by ajsr
thanks steve
ok my specs
i have a 8 inch (trailblazer) package from rocky road in the usa
it has 2" rancho springs
1" taller shackles
springover
ext lines
6 inch longer shocks
1 1/4 tail shaft spacers
6.5 crawlers
lockrights f and rear
32 mongels on custom wheels all offset to outside its 63"wide track outside tyres
bumpstops are stock
all my driving is real muddy rutted tracks or a small amount of rock
my reasons for drop shackles is to try and kill that tippy feel on those off camber tracks and one wheel drop offs
I think i have pretty good articulation now. I removed a leaf out of all corners last weekend to soften the ride it handles pretty lose on the road now although its pretty much unstoppable offroad It did bend my springs a little after a real hard work out today (probably should have left those leafs in
hope thats enough info
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:42 pm
by ajsr
oh yeah steve shes a 85 drover nt high roof line hard top
ugly but cheap
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:25 am
by joeblow
u still on narrow track diffs?.....
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:49 am
by ajsr
yeah im trying to get some wt diffs at the moment at a decent price
anyone in vic have any?
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 11:37 am
by GRPABT1
So you have rougly 8 inches of lift to fit 32" tyres on Narrow diffs? Effectively you've just built a rollover machine. I suggest you find some WT diffs asap and take some lift out. Either reverse the SPOA or use flat/non lifted springs and stock shackles.
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:20 pm
by ajsr
I did add some width as well as height
the wheels have had centers removed and flipped to their max ie about 7" offset to outside giving me a track width of 63" outside tyres
it has caused me a couple of headaces as now I have a lot of length past the knuckle pivot point so tyres did hit the fire wall on lock
so to help with this I moved the front diff 1" forward
i am open to all suggestions
I love the car as it is it goes almost everywhere and makes nearly every other brand 4WD look sad BUT she gets A little tippy for for my liking on side slopes or where A front wheel drops suddenly thats why I thought drop shackles may help by keeping that wheel in contact with the dirt better
Im chasing that unstoppabe zook don't drive it on the road unless I have to I drive in melbourne mud and clay HELP ME
maybe by the sounds of it im on the entirely wrong track traveling against the flow
I an fairly new to 4wding (12mths) I came from dirtbike racing but im too broken and old for it now i need metal around me
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 1:14 pm
by nicbeer
ajsr wrote:I did add some width as well as height
the wheels have had centers removed and flipped to their max ie about 7" offset to outside giving me a track width of 63" outside tyres
it has caused me a couple of headaces as now I have a lot of length past the knuckle pivot point so tyres did hit the fire wall on lock
so to help with this I moved the front diff 1" forward
i am open to all suggestions
I love the car as it is it goes almost everywhere and makes nearly every other brand 4WD look sad BUT she gets A little tippy for for my liking on side slopes or where A front wheel drops suddenly thats why I thought drop shackles may help by keeping that wheel in contact with the dirt better
Im chasing that unstoppabe zook don't drive it on the road unless I have to I drive in melbourne mud and clay HELP ME
maybe by the sounds of it im on the entirely wrong track traveling against the flow
I an fairly new to 4wding (12mths) I came from dirtbike racing but im too broken and old for it now i need metal around me
Drop it a few inches.
lower it is less floppy it will be.
if u have to keep the spoa then use flat springs that flex and std shackles
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 5:00 pm
by NIK
Try too loose some lift if possible, I run spoa on toys with ruf that lifted the front by maybe an inch so rear springs set to match but other than that lowered bumpstops and I fit 33s fine now on 35s I cut some out of the back of the headlight bucket to fit them.
I see you have already moved the front diff forward maybe move the rear back a little too.
My lwb is so much more stable compared to the previous shortys.
Nik
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:10 pm
by ajsr
ok guys so the general thinking is that its to tall
when we say flat springs are we talking standard or can someone recomend a brand my rancho's were 2" lift are near flat now are these alright? they are begining to get a slight backwards bend even
I think a track bar for the rear may be on the list soon to stop axle wrap
I can put the stock shackles back in and lose one inch in height
a mate told me to water fill tyres like on tractors to lower the cog lol
thanks for the input guys more food for thought
who's in vic here around gembrook????
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:45 pm
by NIK
Yep the less lift the better! Dont know about the water in the tyres though.
Nik
Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:35 pm
by Taff
Take the SOA out, it wouldn't be doing you any favors. if you still need lift get a Bodylift instead. As mentioned already, low is good
These guys are in vic and know thier stuff:
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com