Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,
think I've convinced myself to come to your side, having previously owned a MQ Patrol before selling it recently and looking for something different with some more comfort and some more power, i've looked through different machines to buy, having driven Jeeps, 80 series, 100 series, Pajero and recently drove a mates disco 3 but there is something i love about classic Range Rovers

My question is simple and no doubt been covered before but forgive the rookie to the site. Going to test drive a few different models this weekend, budget is about 2-2.5k for a stock and i will build from there to suit my style, is there anything that i should particularly look for in the classics that is a sure sign that i'm up for a big bill not to far down the track. I know they are aging rigs and repairs inevitable. Paint is not a problem as i have the gear to respray and cosmetics don't keep me awake at night

I will use the car for use in high country VIC to get to some good fishing spots, some beach driving in Tas and i will be getting a boat 15+ footer later this year to play with, this won't be my daily driver will sit in garage until its time for a trip

any advise on some things to look for would be much appreciated

cheers

Dane

My personal preference is for an 85' carby model, first year with tacho in dash and just a few upgrades that make for a nicer vehicle and very few electrics to play up, otherwise 86 up EFI auto. The auto can cost more than the purchase price to rebuild so that would be the biggest concern but as long as the body/chassis is good the mechanicals can be rebuilt/replaced easily.

I agree the early rangies are better, with all landrovers thou its rust, engine overheating (maybe later models thou), electrical gremlins, wear on box,oil leaks (well they all leak thou)

the suspension is usually good, but its worth a look see what under the 4 corners. I had 1 odd spring size when I got mine, odd (main dealer too).

I had a later (3.9) one so most of my problems where with electrics, clutch oh & it blew the head gasket.

ZF Auto = Make sure its been serviced, or get it done, other wise great gearbox

Viscous Transfer = May be broken therefore not giving you proper drive, again if its been looked after, should still be good

EFI Engines = Check all vacuum lines, injectors may be leaky, distributor vacuum and mechanical advance may not work (costs $175 to rebuild), Air Flow Meter (Flap type) may be rooted

Carby Engines = Make sure the carbies have the adequate oil in them and the right type, this may solve many problems with idling and starting

Towing = If a 5 speed gearbox, tearing out 5th may be an issue with large loads

Electrical = Generally i've found most if not all electrical problems to be an error of the installer of after market items, that may or may no longer be there (Mr. Citizen wires up his own spotlights, from an unknown power source under bonnet with no fuse or relay with the thinnest wires)

Servicing = Has it been serviced properly? If your handy with the spanner, change every oil(engine, gearbox, trans, diffs), diff seals, bearings, grease uni joints, flush radiator, change belts, leads, rotor, cap. This can be done for around $300-$400. Then it should be a sweet ride, + if anything goes wrong now, it was going to regardless. This will also teach you about the car.

phtest wrote:I agree the early rangies are better, with all landrovers thou its rust, engine overheating (maybe later models thou), electrical gremlins, wear on box,oil leaks (well they all leak thou)

the suspension is usually good, but its worth a look see what under the 4 corners. I had 1 odd spring size when I got mine, odd (main dealer too).

I had a later (3.9) one so most of my problems where with electrics, clutch oh & it blew the head gasket.

mine and my old mans dont leak any oil at all