Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Posted: **Tue Jan 14, 2003 11:44 pm**

Guys,

We have all been flooded with information about upgrading our stock LR drivetrain, from this board, to the Discoweb, to the Pirate4x4 one...and to tell you the truth, I am still dazed and confused...

(good song)

OK, so here goes:

Vehicle in question: 1992 Discovery with Solid discs, 10 spline axles.
REQUESTED Upgrades: ARBs, HD CVs, 24 spline axles, HD flanges.
Brands I like: Maxi-Drive & Jack McNamara
Conditions: Keep everything "stock-sized", so as to carry stock parts as spares.

Questions:

1. Where can I find the strongest, cheapest HD rear 24 spline axles and matching flanges? I will be running steel wheels, so the size of the flanges are not of any concern.

2. I ideally would like ot run the early 90/110 CV (part # AE022...something). a) Which axles do I need to run these CVs with a 24 spline ARB. b) Do I need anything else that the four (4) new axles from the above? Machining? Tiny parts?

3. I intend on running 37"MTRs/36-38"SX, therefore would like to run a 4.11 or 4.7 R&P. I currently have the series 4.7, but we all know how much they don't last...Which ratio would you advise I get? From which manufacturer? Would it be cost efficient to get the 4.11s and the Maxi-Drive undergearing for the LT230?

Ideally, I would like to purchase everything from ONE supplier, as it is 1) cost efficient, 2) make sure that the whole package works together, and 3) I will be shipping everything to Jeddah, KSA.

It would be very very very (read: extrememly) helpful if anyone can shed some light on this subject. I have already e-mailed this to both Jack McNamara and Maxi-Drive, but thought that field testing and arguments should be checked as well.

Thanks again for your enlightenment, and help...

Posted: **Wed Jan 15, 2003 3:38 am**

Probably no right answer... I'd go with Maxidrive lockers and axles (probably most cost-efficient and a single supplier so only one lot of shipping, also the maxi lockers are nice and you can go straight to 24 spline all round).

You will probably break the 90/110 CVs with 37's (I break mine with 35's) - to get a bulletproof front end you'll need to remove all the rover parts and put something else in - and as I haven't done that I won't comment

To get your final drive ratio back to normal you would need to go to 4.7 R&P, 4.11s won't compensate enough (they are about right for 33/34)

If you do a lot of low range work (rockcrawling etc) the maxidrive transfer gears would be a very nice addition, if you are mainly sand I don't know if dropping the gearing that much would be a benefit.

Posted: **Wed Jan 15, 2003 7:39 am**

Both the maxi drive and jacmac locking difffs and axles will give you what you are looking for.

Ratois, 4.7 would be right for what you want or fit the high range gear set from a defender with 1.4-1 high range in lew of the 1.192-1 fitted now.
this way you could run 4.1 diffs (slightly stronger than the 4.7's) and still attain the gearing to suit.

Cv's, cheapest ooption fit the 110 cvs, another would be to fit toy cv's into it and have them longfielded not chaep option.

Regards
Michael.

Posted: **Wed Jan 15, 2003 6:50 pm**

Do you guys have wrecking yards in Saudi?

Find some 80 series toyota axles and swap the whole lot in, better yet if they have the factory lockers, or get air lockers.
Addresses your gearing and strength issues, dunno if theyll like 38's though, but much better chance than Rover R&P.

If you want carry stock spares to retrofit in the event of breakage youve spent too much money on the wrong custom bits, or youre playing very hard, in which case breakage seems inevitable and must be accepted if you wanna play like that. $$$$$

If you want to run 38's on a Rover and not worry about breakage the consensus seems to be you wont do it with Rover bits unless you drive like a girl or are in low traction situations most of the time.

38's on a Disco is pretty much uncharted territory isn't it? How you gunna do it and keep a reasonable centre of gravity and still have a disco body on top?

Toy centres/longfields/Jac Mac 30 splines would be my vote, this seems to survive 38's and hard driving from what I've seen on here and Pirates (I have no personal experience however, I run 28 spl maxi's, tiny tires and drive like a pansy) unless of course you can pony up the cash and fit Mogs.....

My .02c

Cheers
Daryl

Posted: **Thu Jan 16, 2003 10:48 pm**

There are a LOT of Toyota wreckage places here in Saudi, however, the Land Rover is in Lebanon.

Anyways, the reason I am sticking to Landrover axles and so forth, is because (a) I foolishly love Land Rover, and more importantly (b) do not want to run into homoligation issues with challenges/competitions in the future that may not allow for inter-marque interchangeability...(if that exists already, or will)

I prefer to call my driving technic "loving" towards the Disco, eventhough, some may claim I do drive like a girl...however, the right foot is still heavy at times.

I have recieved a response from Maxi-drive, so I think I will be going that way, along with their 4.1s and the 30% (or maybe 40%) LT230RC kit. That seems to be the most viable way of going about...

Anyways, thanks for all the responses, and the more you have, thrash it on...

Posted: **Sat Jan 18, 2003 12:10 pm**

Ahlan wa-sahlan Disco Dino!

Mate I used to own this discovery unitl a couple of months ago.

The guys are right I had lots of trouble running 38s with any Landrover cv's so I went back to 35 claws. I had arbs with maxidirve axles and flanges. the 4.7 gears were too weak and broke so endup with maxidrive 4.1's (3.9 engine with a vortech supercharger)

SO I guess if you stick to Landrover stuff, 35" tyres and 4.1 you should be right.

Post some photos when you are done.

Posted: **Sat Jan 18, 2003 5:19 pm**

Megaman...

Impressed with the Arabic...practically better than mine... :lol:

Anyways, I will be going for the 37" MTRs, which stand closer to 36" so that is a safe size I think (read: hope).

Also, I will be running the same set-up you had, that is ARB diffs, and Maxi-Drive shafts, flanges, and the AUE2522 CVs.

However, I will be risking it going for the Great Basin Rover 4.75 R&P, since I did some calculations with the 4.1s, and I did not really like the ratios that I ended up with.

I am currently running series 4.7 R&P, and have already sheared a set i nthe rear. However, the GBR 4.75s are not 47x10, but rather 38x8, meaning that the teeth are bigger, thicker, and are made of better material (I hope so for freaking US$ 599 per diff side).

The ratios with the 4.1s was not to my likings, and adding the Maxi-Drive LT230RC kit was not a viable option either, as that will only affect the Low range, whereas I tend to use quite a lot of the High range...

Should the set-up I am hoping to use above withstand my abuse, and should I learn to "feel" with the Disco, then I might consider running 38 SXs and leave the MTRs as the DD tires...

As always, advice, comments, arguments, and critics are welcome...

Posted: **Mon Jan 20, 2003 9:24 pm**

Ok, an update:

R&P:

Decided to go with GBR in the US since their 4.75s have 38x8 teeth, as opposed to the 47x10 of the series, which are very weak, and to the 4.1 of Maxi-Drive that have 37x9, since I would be needing the 4.75s for both high and low range with the 37" MTRs. GBR states that they use better material, and production processes, which allow then to run such a ratio safely.

Front axles and CVs:

Still checking out the finest details between McNamara (MN) and Maxi-Drive (MD). MN state that I can use the LC CVs in a drop-in application, still looking into that, and with so many abundant LCs here in Saudi, I think that would be smart and cost effective. MD allow me to run the AEU2522 stock LR CV, however, I will need to machine some locations for the bigger bearings, and purchase some more tid-bits.
WOULD APPRECIATE ANY PERSONAL INPUT ON THIS SUBJECT, AND IT IS A VERY CLOSE CALL, AND EXPERIENCE IS A MUST FOR DECISION MAKING!!!

Rear axles and HD flanges:

Will depend on which manufacturer will win the above bid.

I have to say that both MD and MN have great customer service, and MD has shined through into detailed answers and so forth.

Appreciate receiving comments and inshights once again,

Posted: **Mon Jan 20, 2003 9:52 pm**

As an added argument:

There MUST be a weak link in the front assembly? With the ARB, HD GBR 4.75 (hopefully not these), and the HD axles, and the upgraded CVs (either LC or LR), which would become the weak link? AND, which one would I want to be the weak link, in order for me to change easily, and find more abundantly (and carry)?

I would prefer carrying a spare CV rather than a spare diff, R&P, or even axle? Wouldn't you?

Posted: **Tue Jan 21, 2003 3:24 am**

The weak point will normally be the CV. Engage front locker, turn wheel to full lock, depress accelerator, replace CV.
Some of the guys competing in the Winch Challenge over here have taken to running standard outer axles so that there is an easily replaceable "fuse" in the drivetrain. I think the record is 4 mins to replace one - easier than a CV.
As they were breaking the upgraded CVs as easily as the standard ones they have gone back to standard CVs. Seems to work OK.
Then carry some spare outer axles and a bit of rod with a strong magnet (or welding rod and jumper cable) to pull the end of the stub out.
And then learn when to use - and when _not_ to use the front locker...

Posted: **Tue Jan 21, 2003 7:45 pm**

Lowbox...that is hilarious!

"Engage front locker, turn wheel to full lock, depress accelerator, replace CV."

Well, the thing is, I do not want to be worried about breaking a part that I cannot find. The front axles that will be used will not be stock sized, therefore, I would prefer breaking the CV and replacing it by either a LR one or a LC one, than to break the axle and be stuck with nothing to do.

Will get back to you once I finalize with MD and MN.

Posted: **Tue Jan 21, 2003 8:10 pm**

Sorry guys I just can't be quiet, the rover 4.7 diffs are as strong as any other diff of this size when you use the right crown wheel and pinion set. ie millitary items. the 4.7 series salisbury diff is the same internal size as a dana 60. the reason any of these diffs bust is becuase of the age and no other reason

I put 350hp to the wheels in my series three with 315.75r16 x terrains and I drive the thing like i stole it. reco millitary cvs are stronger that the standard new item due to the way these thing are heat treated. I have no troulbe with the things breaking. maxi drive now build 35spline axles and hemisphere to suit rover salisbury. all this bs about them being weak is just wrong. my car is proof of this. any diff supplied by jack macnamara or maxidrive will do the job. I use maxi drive front and rear.

glen

Posted: **Tue Jan 21, 2003 9:14 pm**

V8Grunt,
Do you have Salisbury's front and rear?
Or are you saying the rover drop out third member diff is the ones you are using?

Cheers
Daryl

Posted: **Fri Jan 24, 2003 1:07 am**

true,

A Salisbury Differential has a Ring gear of ~10", whereas the Rover is ~8", so that makes a big difference!

Anyways, I think the material used, the number of gears, and the method of fabrication will help to sustain 37"s...we'll see which ones shine through...

Posted: **Fri Jan 24, 2003 6:42 pm**

I run with rover maxidrive and 110 milt CVs for the front and rover salisbury and maxi drive locker in the rear. if the suspension is set up properly and the diffs and driveline commponants are in good order breakage is minimal.

for many years I used a standard 4.7 rover open diff in the front and never broke 1, all the while the side line critics telling me the rover unit was weak. I used standard rover military axles and replaced the uni joints every 12 months. this vehicle has been around for a long time and I have always driven the thing to the limit. just ask sam , mick or ruff. I'm sorry if any one takes offence but over the years I have heard the same thing over and over. un justified when we lok at how old the design of the series vehicle is.

thanks glen

ROVER BRIAN WASHED I HAVE GREEN BLOOD.

Posted: **Fri Jan 24, 2003 10:05 pm**

110 milt CVs for the front

where do you get these, and what are they worth.
how do you know youre getting a 'military cv' ?
have you ever run 60665 CV's and if so what is the strength comparison between these and the 110 mil CV's (this is a seat of the pants feeling tyope question with the assumption you have run and broken inferior stuff in the past)

I put 350hp to the wheels in my series three

Is this a Rover motor?
Feel like sharing the specs, please.....

Cheers
Daryl

Posted: **Sat Jan 25, 2003 5:25 pm**

No I have never broken a standard CV, I use only reco military mainly because of the advice I get from engineers and parts suppliers. Will Russell at FWD Motors ph 38489323. also Mal Story at maxidrive.

Posted: **Sat Jan 25, 2003 5:29 pm**

engine is a ford v8 running to a top loader bolted to a series 3 transfer with sufix b gear set, and daiken extreme clutch. has good gearing with this set up about 48-1 1st low and 100klph at 2950rpm.

Posted: **Sun Jan 26, 2003 10:08 pm**

DiscoDino wrote:Ok, an update:

R&P:

Decided to go with GBR in the US since their 4.75s have 38x8 teeth, as opposed to the 47x10 of the series, which are very weak, and to the 4.1 of Maxi-Drive that have 37x9, since I would be needing the 4.75s for both high and low range with the 37" MTRs. GBR states that they use better material, and production processes, which allow then to run such a ratio safely.

Front axles and CVs:

Still checking out the finest details between McNamara (MN) and Maxi-Drive (MD). MN state that I can use the LC CVs in a drop-in application, still looking into that, and with so many abundant LCs here in Saudi, I think that would be smart and cost effective. MD allow me to run the AEU2522 stock LR CV, however, I will need to machine some locations for the bigger bearings, and purchase some more tid-bits.
WOULD APPRECIATE ANY PERSONAL INPUT ON THIS SUBJECT, AND IT IS A VERY CLOSE CALL, AND EXPERIENCE IS A MUST FOR DECISION MAKING!!!

Rear axles and HD flanges:

Will depend on which manufacturer will win the above bid.

I have to say that both MD and MN have great customer service, and MD has shined through into detailed answers and so forth.

Appreciate receiving comments and inshights once again,

From what i have heard on Pirate the GBR 4.75s is a much stronger than the series 4.7s. Although you should check out MN hypoid gear set (which is a hilux crown and pinion) which I would think would be a lot stronger. If you went to a hilux third member (either a MN bolt in job or modify your housing to take a hilux third) then you can run 30 spline axles which would be a lot stronger than a 24 spline (I think a 30 spline is 20% stronger based on area of the axle at the root of the spline (I did this calc myself))

Thoughts on the front axle:

Now the strongest crown wheel would be a hilux reverse rotation third member (modify your housing to fit), the next would be a hilux standard rotation third or the MN hxpoid gearset in a MN third (same thing except the MN will bolt straight in), the next would be the GBR gearset (MN says that the hilux gearset would be about 3 times stringer than a stock rover set (Im sure hes exagerating here but he reckons they are a lot stronger)

Now front inner axles. Strongest would be 30 spline inner spline, then comes the rover 24 spline. Both of these splines are a lot bigger than the outer spline so either one will do. Now the outer spline (of the inner axle) depends on what CVs you run. The biggest axle is the rover 23 spline (to suit 110 cv or early rangie). The next biggest would be the hilux spline to suit the hilux CVs (dont know the size or could but its a fair bit smnaller than th 23 spliners). Then the next is the rover 32 spline (this is a very small axle) thats in the later model discos and defenders.

CVs : strongest is a longfielded hilux CV, then a 110cv, then a early rangie CV (with 10 spline stub axle).

Now IMO the strongest setup would use the longfielded hilux CV. These things are incredibly strong (they are absolutely amazing). Now the down side to using one of these CVs is that you will almost guarantee that you will break the inner axle at the outer spline (the toy guys that I wheel with only break inner axles but these axles are stock toy axles and not allow) With a MN alloy inner axle I dont know which would break but I would guess that it would be the outer CV stub axle which would be a good thing (if you dont lke changing inner axles) if its still going to be the inner axle (like the toy guys) then it will be a PITA and expensive.

If you went with alloy axles with 110 CVs then you wont break an inner axle BUT in all likelyhood when you do grenade a CV you will make a mess of the inner axle and probably stuff it as well. I guess this is why the winch guys run the rangie 23 spline CVs with the 10 spline stubs and use the stub axle as a fuse (but I think that this only works if you use fairly new CVs all the time)

In the front I dont think its all that critical if you run a hilux crown or a GBR, I dont think either will give trouble. Same goes for either 24 spline inner axle inner spline or 30. Its always going to be the outer spline of the inner axle or the CV thats ging to break.

For the front I would run the MN alloy axles with the longfielded toy CVs and carry a spare set of front axles and CVs cause I dont know which would break first. This combo would be a lot stronger than a 110 based setup IMO

To give you an idea of how strong a longfielded toy CV is I wheel with RUFF, POS and bjonroids from this board they run 38.5 claws, 38.5claws, and 42 tsl swampers respectively all with longfields. Non of them has broken a longfield and before they had the longfield CV with much smaller tyres (33s,35s,35s) you could guarantee that at least two of them would break a stock CV on every run we did. (the 38.5 claws measure 40 x 16 inches - they are a bloody big tyre)

This is all just my opinion and I dont have any of these problems - I swaped in some Dana44s a long time ago (although the 42 tsls do give them a bit of trouble) :finger:

Sam

Posted: **Sun Jan 26, 2003 10:24 pm**

So how long till we see the mogs go in sam.
:?:

Posted: **Mon Jan 27, 2003 3:12 am**

Sam,

That is exactly what I wanted to hear, so cheers to that.

The idea of having the CV/Stub Axle as a fuse up front is a good idea. I was quoted 400 US$ fo each D110 CV (part # AEU2522) which is kinda steep, therefore I will most probably go with the MN set-up with the Toyota CVs (Longfielded if I can), and the appropriate axles.

I will be sticking to the ARB RD 56, which are the 24 spline Rover diffs, since that is what I have now, and changing them would cost a fortune. That will lead me to go for the GBR 4.75s, since I like their ration, and the fact that they are "EHD"...

The rear will be simply the best 24 spline axles I can find, which will either be the MN or MD.

To tell you the truth, I am really not sure which one I will get, but I want to get something with these 3 criteria:
1. Minimal Custom parts
2. Cheapest
3. Easiest to repair/replace in the Middle Est
4. Able to withstand 37" MTR (effectively 36")

So hopefully the best equation will prevail. I will pay for what I am getting, that I know, but I am not willing to go way over-budget. I still have to chop up the rear and install the rear winch, rollcage, and so forth (shooting for a 6.2 V8 Detroit deisel if I can)

Thanks again for all!

Cheers!

Posted: **Mon Jan 27, 2003 3:23 am**

Sam,

That is exactly what I wanted to hear, so cheers to that.

The idea of having the CV/Stub Axle as a fuse up front is a good idea. I was quoted 400 US$ fo each D110 CV (part # AEU2522) which is kinda steep, therefore I will most probably go with the MN set-up with the Toyota CVs (Longfielded if I can), and the appropriate axles.

I will be sticking to the ARB RD 56, which are the 24 spline Rover diffs, since that is what I have now, and changing them would cost a fortune. That will lead me to go for the GBR 4.75s, since I like their ration, and the fact that they are "EHD"...

The rear will be simply the best 24 spline axles I can find, which will either be the MN or MD.

To tell you the truth, I am really not sure which one I will get, but I want to get something with these 3 criteria:
1. Minimal Custom parts
2. Cheapest
3. Easiest to repair/replace in the Middle Est
4. Able to withstand 37" MTR (effectively 36")

So hopefully the best equation will prevail. I will pay for what I am getting, that I know, but I am not willing to go way over-budget. I still have to chop up the rear and install the rear winch, rollcage, and so forth (shooting for a 6.2 V8 Detroit deisel if I can)

Thanks again for all!

Cheers!

Posted: **Mon Jan 27, 2003 7:05 pm**

I need a transfer case and was thinking of cutting up an LT95 box, but I see that Glen (v8grunt) is running a series 3 transfer with sufix b gear set behind a Ford V8.

How does the strength of a series 3 transfer with sufix b gear set, compare with the LT95 and LT230 transfer cases?

What is the low range reduction ratio for series 3 transfer with sufix b gear set?

Posted: **Mon Jan 27, 2003 7:20 pm**

I cut up an LT95 box and put the transfer case part behind a BW t18 (6.4:1 first gear) Works unreal (so far) and fairly simple to do.

Sam

Posted: **Tue Jan 28, 2003 7:39 pm**

Strange Rover wrote:
DiscoDino wrote:Ok, an update:

R&P:

Decided to go with GBR in the US since their 4.75s have 38x8 teeth, as opposed to the 47x10 of the series, which are very weak, and to the 4.1 of Maxi-Drive that have 37x9, since I would be needing the 4.75s for both high and low range with the 37" MTRs. GBR states that they use better material, and production processes, which allow then to run such a ratio safely.

Front axles and CVs:

Still checking out the finest details between McNamara (MN) and Maxi-Drive (MD). MN state that I can use the LC CVs in a drop-in application, still looking into that, and with so many abundant LCs here in Saudi, I think that would be smart and cost effective. MD allow me to run the AEU2522 stock LR CV, however, I will need to machine some locations for the bigger bearings, and purchase some more tid-bits.
WOULD APPRECIATE ANY PERSONAL INPUT ON THIS SUBJECT, AND IT IS A VERY CLOSE CALL, AND EXPERIENCE IS A MUST FOR DECISION MAKING!!!

Rear axles and HD flanges:

Will depend on which manufacturer will win the above bid.

I have to say that both MD and MN have great customer service, and MD has shined through into detailed answers and so forth.

Appreciate receiving comments and inshights once again,

From what i have heard on Pirate the GBR 4.75s is a much stronger than the series 4.7s. Although you should check out MN hypoid gear set (which is a hilux crown and pinion) which I would think would be a lot stronger. If you went to a hilux third member (either a MN bolt in job or modify your housing to take a hilux third) then you can run 30 spline axles which would be a lot stronger than a 24 spline (I think a 30 spline is 20% stronger based on area of the axle at the root of the spline (I did this calc myself))

Thoughts on the front axle:

Now the strongest crown wheel would be a hilux reverse rotation third member (modify your housing to fit), the next would be a hilux standard rotation third or the MN hxpoid gearset in a MN third (same thing except the MN will bolt straight in), the next would be the GBR gearset (MN says that the hilux gearset would be about 3 times stringer than a stock rover set (Im sure hes exagerating here but he reckons they are a lot stronger)

Now front inner axles. Strongest would be 30 spline inner spline, then comes the rover 24 spline. Both of these splines are a lot bigger than the outer spline so either one will do. Now the outer spline (of the inner axle) depends on what CVs you run. The biggest axle is the rover 23 spline (to suit 110 cv or early rangie). The next biggest would be the hilux spline to suit the hilux CVs (dont know the size or could but its a fair bit smnaller than th 23 spliners). Then the next is the rover 32 spline (this is a very small axle) thats in the later model discos and defenders.

CVs : strongest is a longfielded hilux CV, then a 110cv, then a early rangie CV (with 10 spline stub axle).

Now IMO the strongest setup would use the longfielded hilux CV. These things are incredibly strong (they are absolutely amazing). Now the down side to using one of these CVs is that you will almost guarantee that you will break the inner axle at the outer spline (the toy guys that I wheel with only break inner axles but these axles are stock toy axles and not allow) With a MN alloy inner axle I dont know which would break but I would guess that it would be the outer CV stub axle which would be a good thing (if you dont lke changing inner axles) if its still going to be the inner axle (like the toy guys) then it will be a PITA and expensive.

If you went with alloy axles with 110 CVs then you wont break an inner axle BUT in all likelyhood when you do grenade a CV you will make a mess of the inner axle and probably stuff it as well. I guess this is why the winch guys run the rangie 23 spline CVs with the 10 spline stubs and use the stub axle as a fuse (but I think that this only works if you use fairly new CVs all the time)

In the front I dont think its all that critical if you run a hilux crown or a GBR, I dont think either will give trouble. Same goes for either 24 spline inner axle inner spline or 30. Its always going to be the outer spline of the inner axle or the CV thats ging to break.

For the front I would run the MN alloy axles with the longfielded toy CVs and carry a spare set of front axles and CVs cause I dont know which would break first. This combo would be a lot stronger than a 110 based setup IMO

To give you an idea of how strong a longfielded toy CV is I wheel with RUFF, POS and bjonroids from this board they run 38.5 claws, 38.5claws, and 42 tsl swampers respectively all with longfields. Non of them has broken a longfield and before they had the longfield CV with much smaller tyres (33s,35s,35s) you could guarantee that at least two of them would break a stock CV on every run we did. (the 38.5 claws measure 40 x 16 inches - they are a bloody big tyre)

This is all just my opinion and I dont have any of these problems - I swaped in some Dana44s a long time ago (although the 42 tsls do give them a bit of trouble)

Sam

"THIS ONE TIME AT BAND CAMP....."

(LONGEST POST YET)

Posted: **Tue Jan 28, 2003 11:38 pm**

That is funny...well...as long as i do not get to call Sam my "bitch"!?!?!

Posted: **Wed Jan 29, 2003 7:50 pm**

Strange Rover wrote:I cut up an LT95 box and put the transfer case part behind a BW t18 (6.4:1 first gear) Works unreal (so far) and fairly simple to do.

Sam

Thanks Sam.

I saw what you did on Pirate, which lead me to think along similar lines.

I am using an Isuzu 4BD1-T motor and had trouble getting parts to adapt the LT95 box (even though they are use in 110 Defenders. So bought a 6 speed box from an Isuzu NQR. Easily as strong as an LT95 and the specs I got from local dealer stated 6.378:1 in 1st and 0.787:1 in 6th. When I got a 2nd hand box from Japan, 1st was 5:1 5th and 6th are both overdrive- but I can look at diff ratios after it is trialed with current 4.3:1 diffs.

Now, just have to bootie fab a divorced transfer.

I have the option to chop my LT95, but I would want to know more about the series 3 transfer as I can get them cheap and it would save destroying an LT95 that I put a lot of new stuff into.

Posted: **Thu Jan 30, 2003 10:07 pm**

Bush65 wrote:
Strange Rover wrote:I cut up an LT95 box and put the transfer case part behind a BW t18 (6.4:1 first gear) Works unreal (so far) and fairly simple to do.

Sam

Thanks Sam.

I saw what you did on Pirate, which lead me to think along similar lines.

I am using an Isuzu 4BD1-T motor and had trouble getting parts to adapt the LT95 box (even though they are use in 110 Defenders. So bought a 6 speed box from an Isuzu NQR. Easily as strong as an LT95 and the specs I got from local dealer stated 6.378:1 in 1st and 0.787:1 in 6th. When I got a 2nd hand box from Japan, 1st was 5:1 5th and 6th are both overdrive- but I can look at diff ratios after it is trialed with current 4.3:1 diffs.

Now, just have to bootie fab a divorced transfer.

I have the option to chop my LT95, but I would want to know more about the series 3 transfer as I can get them cheap and it would save destroying an LT95 that I put a lot of new stuff into.

Im almost certain that a guy in brisbane has this exact same setup. I had a look at it a few years ago. Ill see if I can find any more info.

Sam

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Clear Drive Train HELP!!!

Clear Drive Train HELP!!!

drivetrain idea

rover diffs

specs and sources