4 LINK BUSHES WILL FACT NISSAN DO THE JOB??

[A1]

Well i have finally made a start on this and im a bit curious whether or the nissan factory link bushes will do the job .........

The lowers i have no probs with as im now stayin standard mount points on axle and chassis so i can save some time n get it wheelable quicka I just have to make up a jig that will suit the angle on the bush tube as it sits at bout 94 deg ......

The uppers how ever im worried with as the nissan bushes are vulacanised into the steel bush sleeve im worried these will tear out due to the forces that will be on these with the stress f keepin the axle centralised under the body.


Duz any1 have an idea of the force that will be generated at the axle mount (ontop of the pumpkin) with the 4 link setup.................And will it be less at the chassis end of the upper links or the same ........

Not concerned while im wheelin it .....just roadin it say in a right or left hand bend at speed obviuosly the axle wont move alot ?? if these gave way (only till it reached the steel bush holder on the link) but if ya doin 60 clicks or more it may tend to skip the rear out uncontrolably..............




Or maybe i just stick with the ome bush at the axle end of the uppers and run the standard nissan on the chassis ends and on both ends of the lowers........



Any info please link experts out there



A1

[hypo]

no coz they r shit..........

i wood just use the OME buches that u got, heaps stronger i reckon, and if u have proble with them chewin out get some different compound ones made a trident either harder or softer woteer needs 2 b done

[dave]

Use the standard ones, I have used patrol bushes in one end of all my arms and it is triangulated top and bottom the other end runs a heim.

[OVERKILL ENG]

Use the standard ones they will flaex enough and will last well. We used them on the Zook coil kit and they were more than sufficient.
SAM.

[A1]

Thanx i guess i just keep n eye on em see how they go .......


A1

[big red]

i think the nissan one do about 50 to 60degrees before they tear [over time] which is why i had to change mine to poly.

[beebee]

i think the nissan one do about 50 to 60degrees before they tear [over time] which is why i had to change mine to poly.

Although I know nothing about nissans, wouldn't the factory rubber last longer than poly? Poly usually doesn't give, it just splits. Athough that comparison depends on the rubber stiffness.

[Wendle]

the problem with the rubber ones is that even though they misalign very well, they don't like rotation. the rubber tears off the crush tube. dan'll just have to bite the bullet and make his lowers longer....
it's quite easy dude, much less work than what you'll be doing to shift the uppers..

[A1]

the problem with the rubber ones is that even though they misalign very well, they don't like rotation. the rubber tears off the crush tube. dan'll just have to bite the bullet and make his lowers longer....
it's quite easy dude, much less work than what you'll be doing to shift the uppers..

I was just worried with the uppers the lowers will react no worse than they do now ( wont they , should be less ....shouldnt it as there will be less axle steer.........with the 4 link ??????????????????????????).........I realise the bushes will be pushed as there is more rotational in the rear axle !!! BUT!?

Wendle i will do the lowers (lengthen) em once i setup the uppers and i get some time to drive the fukar.......if i have any dramas i guess i'll be runnin ome's


cheers Dan

[Wendle]

I was just worried with the uppers the lowers will react no worse than they do now ( wont they , should be less ....shouldnt it as there will be less axle steer.........with the 4 link ??????????????????????????)

you'll actually end up with slightly more axle steer unless you change the lowers as well. it's just because of the relation between the two constraint points. with the nissan setup the rear point will kind of self adjust as it articulates, and it canels some of the steer out. you are kinda getting rid of it's ability to do that.. it WILL climb alot nicer wether you change the lowers or not, but it will climb a LOT nicer if you do change them..

[A1]

Thanx for the heads up ......again .............yep will move lowers as said but me being a novice i wanted to keep some factory mounting points so that i dont have a crab walkin MAV ..... initially then once she walkin (drivin straight ) will remove lowers leave uppers attached and extend lowers bout 300mm or so forward like this otha bloke i know ................................


I hope it will climb a brick shitehouse



dansdodgydiffcompany.com

[Wendle]

novice?? dude, I am a cabinetmaker, and I'm not even much good at that anymore ROFL...

[big red]

i think the nissan one do about 50 to 60degrees before they tear [over time] which is why i had to change mine to poly.

Although I know nothing about nissans, wouldn't the factory rubber last longer than poly? Poly usually doesn't give, it just splits. Athough that comparison depends on the rubber stiffness.

the problem is the crush tube is vulcanised to the bush rubber and when bolted in, the crush tube does not turn !
just for interests sake the fulcrum poly bushes are a bit worn on mine [ but they flex better now] and are about 2 years 40000kms old.

[beebee]

i think the nissan one do about 50 to 60degrees before they tear [over time] which is why i had to change mine to poly.

Although I know nothing about nissans, wouldn't the factory rubber last longer than poly? Poly usually doesn't give, it just splits. Athough that comparison depends on the rubber stiffness.

the problem is the crush tube is vulcanised to the bush rubber and when bolted in, the crush tube does not turn !
just for interests sake the fulcrum poly bushes are a bit worn on mine [ but they flex better now] and are about 2 years 40000kms old.

Aha! I see!

I wonder what Sam's slotted Rover bushes would be like in this application? Would they allow more rotation before failure?