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35's on hjz105 and gearing
Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:34 am
by ned
ive got a standard hjz105 and am looking at putting some new tyres on the 16" sunnys.
ive decided on maxxis bighorn but i dont know wether i should go 305/70r16 or 315/70r16. with 30mm coil spacers, will the 315 fit? or will i need the 3inch lift im planning first?
also, what gearing is best suited to 33" and 35"?
cheers, ned
Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:04 am
by 98lux
315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:04 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
What about locating the front control arms forward 30mm - would that be enough?
Paul
Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:16 am
by Kramer
I have 35's on my Hunjy with a 3" lift as said before I removed the mud flaps (illegal) the rears scrape a little at full flex but I am not worried the front end is all good except you need to lengthen the diff breathers when you do the lift mine keep on coming off.
Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 11:13 am
by 98lux
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
What about locating the front control arms forward 30mm - would that be enough?
Paul
Yes it would but at what cost, will the slip yoke be long enough as it slid out about 1" just with the 3" lift. You would need to buy longer arms as well.
Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 11:26 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
98lux wrote:me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
What about locating the front control arms forward 30mm - would that be enough?
Paul
Yes it would but at what cost, will the slip yoke be long enough as it slid out about 1" just with the 3" lift. You would need to buy longer arms as well.
Darren's done something like this on his Rooby project - 80scool.
He may be reading this.
Paul
Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 7:14 pm
by +dj_hansen+
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:98lux wrote:me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
What about locating the front control arms forward 30mm - would that be enough?
Paul
Yes it would but at what cost, will the slip yoke be long enough as it slid out about 1" just with the 3" lift. You would need to buy longer arms as well.
Darren's done something like this on his Rooby project - 80scool.
He may be reading this.
Paul
Darren runs a 3' lift, with bumpstop extensions, arms 12mm forward and 37 procomps... the key here is limiting upwards travel and maximising down travel
Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:11 am
by hdj105
98lux wrote:315/75/16 still will not fit just with a 3" lift, trust me i know i just got some for my hzj105, front mud flap and wheel well needs a little tap with a big hammer. and the rear bump stops need dropping down a bit.
No need for hammers ;-)
It's that nobby bit moulded into the flap covering the end of the sill that scrapes, some just trim that off, or fold the end of the sill 90 deg. and stick a screw through the flap into it. I replaced the front flaps with some cut from rally type flat poly material, they now *just* scrape on turns when compressed.
You will need to drop the rear bump stops too. Even with 285's the tyres will rub the inner guard at full articulation if you have long shocks, 305's will be worse, and 315's even moreso.
I still run std 4.3 diffs, ideally you need lower gearing but it's not readily available for the 100/105 rear.
Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:28 pm
by ned
drop the rear bump stops???? can you please explain that a bit better
Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:58 pm
by 98lux
You need to limit the up travel of the rear wheel to stop it hitting the inner gaurd. To do this, you lower the rear bump stops (put a spacer in between the bump stop and the chassis)
Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:03 pm
by ned
but wouldt that limit flex?
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:01 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
98lux wrote:You need to limit the up travel of the rear wheel to stop it hitting the inner gaurd. To do this, you lower the rear bump stops (put a spacer in between the bump stop and the chassis)
What about running a 10-15mm wheel spacer (yeah - legal issues).
Or different offset rims?
Thanx
Paul
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:13 am
by 98lux
ned wrote:but wouldt that limit flex?
Only up travel not down travel.
Just go to you local flex rock or track and flex it slowly till the rear wheel is just missing the inner guard and the measure the distance between the diff and the bump stop and that is how much up travel will be lost.
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:15 am
by 98lux
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:98lux wrote:You need to limit the up travel of the rear wheel to stop it hitting the inner gaurd. To do this, you lower the rear bump stops (put a spacer in between the bump stop and the chassis)
What about running a 10-15mm wheel spacer (yeah - legal issues).
Or different offset rims?
Thanx
Paul
Yes you could, but as you said "legal issues", and as for the offset rims, you then run into issues with the tyres out side the gaurds, so some flares need to be put on.
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:24 am
by hdj105
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
What about running a 10-15mm wheel spacer (yeah - legal issues).
Or different offset rims?
Paul, from memory you would then have an issue with the tyre fouling the guard lip when both sides of rear suspension go full compression, i.e. big speed bump, jump, etc.
This would also compound the issue with front tyres rubbing too.
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:26 am
by hdj105
ned wrote:but wouldt that limit flex?
Of course, but a proper solution would be to use a longer stroke shock so that you wouldn't loose anything
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:50 pm
by ned
ok, so to recap and get all the info in one post.
35's will fit with a 3 inch lift if the sill cap is removed and rear bumpstops are dropped. longer shocks will gain back articualtion after bump stop drop.
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 8:40 pm
by hdj105
ned wrote:ok, so to recap and get all the info in one post.
35's will fit with a 3 inch lift if the sill cap is removed and rear bumpstops are dropped. longer shocks will gain back articualtion after bump stop drop.
Basically yes. Remember, adding lift doesn't make the wheel arches bigger ;-)