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Carby info

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 12:54 pm
by perryb
Zooksters

I know this question has possibly been asked 100's times but I have a 96 coily with a carby that is starting to play up. I have gone from about 10l per 100 to about 11.5 per 100. I note that a lot of owners seen to go to the Weber 32/36 carby with lots of mods. My question is "should I change from the standard carby to a Weber?" If so "anyone worth recommending in Canberra/Queanbeyan?" and if not worth changing "why not?"

Thanks

BP

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:58 pm
by grimbo
oh cmon this is a joke right.

If you think it has been covered a 100 times before then why didn't you search for it. There are numerous Weber threads, there is info in the bible etc.

Just so it doesn't get up people's noses that aren't forums for helping people crap here is a link to a massive Weber thread in this very forum

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic289 ... ight=weber

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:11 pm
by joeblow
better yet, change from a standard carby to a vit carby.

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:38 pm
by Gwagensteve
You won't get better economy with the weber carb. If you're looking for something to tinker with forever, go for it though.

If you're trying to get economy back, ensure everything is in stock condition - plug leads, cat converter, timing etc. There's not a lot of easy ways to richen up a stock sierra carby - the fuelling is pre set.

Not running E5 fuel are you?

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:02 pm
by perryb
Being a newby to the site it sometimes makes it hard to find your way around. Thanks to those who took the time to send a respectable reply. I have changed to an ethanol blend but have found that the economy has dropped. I filled it up with the better stuff the other day and it seems to be up a bit on power and economy. The exhaust from the tail pipe is as black as a cows innards if that is any indication that it may just be too rich.

I am guessing from the better replys that it may be better to steer away from the Weber.

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:09 pm
by grimbo
gee sorry if I offended you by giving you a link to a large thread that actually gave you answers to your question, I'll remember in the future that I should give you "respectable" answers :roll:

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:12 pm
by perryb
Glad we see eye to eye. Thanks for the thread. Well, any thoughts on the best way to go?

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:12 pm
by St Jimmy
Do what the yanks are doing harley carbs.Thats the new thing from the states
try this
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,86423.0.html

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:20 pm
by perryb
Thanks Boner. I wonder if my mate would miss the carby from his bike. The biggest issue I have here is finding a carb place locally with the knowledge to work these things out. I had a look at the thread Grimbo sent and can see myself having to look a little deeper into the workings of the carby before I rush out and ask a Carby mechanic for help and end up with a $1500 bill cos I don't talk the talk.

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:23 pm
by grimbo
keeping it Suzuki, keeping your vehicle well maintained and using quality fuel usually mean the vehicle is performing at its best. Suzuki carbys work very well but they need to be maintained. Putting on 3rd party performance products will never be as suited

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:30 pm
by perryb
Sounds sensible to keep it stock for now. Now here is a real gumby question for you - any guess as to how much I can expect to pay for soemone to put a carby overhaul kit in?

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:31 pm
by grimbo
I used to get a guy in melbourne to do mine and it usually cost about $150 - $200 depending on what needed to be done

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:46 pm
by perryb
Thanks Grimbo! I guess if I add the 50% extra for having to live in Canberra (they all reckon it costs that much more in shipping) I will hope for the low hundreds. I am gunna steer clear of the ethanol blend as there is really a marked difference in perfomance. I took the beast (no not the Missus) up to the snow a couple of times and on the ethanol I found that I was blowing more smoke and had a couple of flame outs. Will try the high Octane stuff this weeklend for another play in the snow.

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:16 pm
by matt a
whats the differance between sierra carb and vitara carb besides jetting .
are they a asin carb and how reliable are they and would they bolt straight onto a 1.3 coily or do they have differnt bolt pattern ect. :?:

thanks

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:31 pm
by lay80n
Injection - there is nothing else ;) (maybe gas :lol: )
The single point injection off a 8V G series motor is as easy as getting a carby sorted, and most likley not much more expensive. If you keep the standard computer, you can even use the factory diagnostic tests etc. PM me or search if you want more infomation. I have a haltech computer on my setup, but i have done swaps with factory computer with great results (ask Pyrozook :D ).

Layto....

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 3:42 pm
by perryb
"L"

Would be interested to hear how the fuel economy/power changes with the injection. Did it take musc work to do the conversion?

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 3:56 pm
by Gwagensteve
Did you PM Layto as he asked?

also search "Vitara TBI" and "EFI conversion"

MART (paul) on this board has also done the TBI conversion, and runs boost though his.

I don't believe though you will see a significant improvement in economy. You will see an improvement in drivability and reliability.

You need to figure out where the 15% economy has gone. My guess is look into timing and ignition - leads, rotor, cap and plugs, along with timing.

Steve.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 4:10 pm
by lay80n
I will give him credit, he sent a PM and made sense :lol:

As i answered in the PM, as as Steve has said, the economy doesnt really change, and the power increase is only small. BUT the driveablility is much better, and cold start etc is much improved over teh problematic zook carby chokes. Also IMHO more reliable setup. The swap is childs play if you have basic mechanical skills and a can read/interperate simple wiring diagrams.

Personally i would figure why you suddenly lost the economy then go from there, if it was a carby fault, then injection, or webber or whaterer. But make sure you are not just chasing your own tail with repairs. Taking everything in a logical though out manner will get you the best reward. :)

Layto....

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 4:27 pm
by perryb
Thanks Guys

Have replaced the dizzy cap, rotor button, plugs, air filter and leads. I guess while you are driving something of the size, shape and weight of the zook with a 1.3 motor then there will always be issues with fuel economy and Canberra is not really very flat. I have a new fuel filter (Damn those metal replacements are expensive) so that will be next. I have always thought that the colour of the exhaust emission could be an indicator as to how the motor is running and if it is the case then it is jet black (running really rich plus old plugs were on the dark side). I have fiddled with the idle screw to bring the idle down to about 850rpm but I note that after a warm up the idle can vary between 650 and 1200. This is why I thought the carby might be on the outer. Fuel injection on the other hand sounds attractive, and I am happy to sacrifice fuel economy for reliablilty especially considering the flooding problems people seem to have on the carbys when doing 4wd.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 4:44 pm
by want33s
A well sorted carby is IMHO better than EFI (For a bush Suzi).

I sold the TBI setup to Layto that he is currently using because my carby performs SO well and is a lot easier to diagnose/repair problems than TBI.

Carby filters are a lot cheaper than EFI filters and I don't have a lift pump, high pressure pump & lines or computer/electrics to worry about letting me down on the track.

I don't know why my carby is so good, it's just a stock unit. My car will rev to redline standing on front or rear bars and will idle until I turn it off even when I fall over. :D Couldn't ask for much more than that.
Even on the coldest mornings, one pump turn the key and it idles.
I might go EFI again one day but it will be when I fit a supercharger not because my carby isn't good enough.
Jas.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 4:52 pm
by perryb
Hmm.

Ever had that feeling that just when you think you have an answer someone puts in the DOH! factor. Food for thought and thanks for your input Jas. I still have to check the timing but this fuel economy problem has appeared over a number of months so it has been hard to track down to one issue. My car starts every morning, at temps well below zero with a small amount of coaxing and will then sit there idling until it is warm, that is when I get the RPM variation. Reliablility is a big issue for me (although I did get married so perhaps I shouldn't be too fussy in life).

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 4:59 pm
by want33s
Float level and vacuum port blockages "could" be the worst of your problems. Both easily fixed.
Download the FSM if you haven't already it'll show you how to set float level and where the tiny vacuum ports are.
www.suzukiinfo.com
Jas.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:14 pm
by GRPABT1
Jas I think you have the worlds best carby.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:55 pm
by DavePatrol
GRPABT1 wrote:Jas I think you have the worlds best carby.
mines the same as jas one tern of the key and it starts first go and idles great even if it is a realy cold morning.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 11:46 pm
by christover1
The auto choke is probably playing up.
Very often the water pipes need cleaning out.
ny cooling issues and low water can cause choke issues, too.

Choke is operated by hot water from rad flowing thru it.
If one pipe stays cold, its blocked.
If water is low (non standard radiator can cause this) then the choke can be above water level, thus no works.

christover