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"Mudbitsa" 1998 Coily build thread

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:19 pm
by Mudbits
1998 SJ80 Samurai Soft top build.


As i bought it. Already made up from 3 Samurai's:
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Started stripping it out:
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30mm Raised King springs:
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Ready to go to the panel beaters:
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Donor vehicle for doors and front clip:
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New engine, G16a from 1993 Helly Hanson 5 door Escudo:
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Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:58 pm
by DavePatrol
hay mudbits looks good so far, what suspension mods are you doing to it and what size tyers and brand are the ones in pic 4-5?

cheers scott

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:01 pm
by jonno_racing
and it has power steer?? wtf!!!
looks cool though!!!

Phil

Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 11:48 pm
by spamwell
power steering and air cone where factory options on coil sierras, in new zealand they are even luckier and get jimny's imported from japan with all the goodies and also ones badges samurai from idonesia and stuff like that with all the goodies.

if everyone in australia ordered there sierras instead of just picked up from the lot i'm sure alot more would have had Power steering air con and single point injection.

coilies in japan even came out with a version of the g13bb with a different inlet manifold set up i think

Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 6:16 am
by Mudbits
Thanks, the tyres are Maxxis M8080 Mudzilla's in 31x11.5R15.
We are doing just a basic 30mm spring lift with matching shocks and a 2" body lift. Nothing to serious as this will be a daily driver for our workshop.
Yes we have factory powersteering!

Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 6:49 am
by Mudbits
New Rear main seal:
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Modified sump and oil pickup:
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Lightened G13b flywheel now less than 5kg:
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Surface grind ready for heavy duty clutch:
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Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 5:34 am
by Mudbits
New Clutch:
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Clutch fitted:
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Extractors:
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Rear half of exhaust:
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Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:23 am
by Pixie-LWBZOOK
whats with the lack of fold down windshield? i thought all soft tops had them, but in the US they just didn t have hinges to suit?

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:30 am
by Gwagensteve
Coilers have fixed windscreens and a smooth cowl.

Steve.

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:33 am
by jonno_racing
coilys dont fold down..
well mind dosent!

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:36 am
by GRPABT1
That has far to many mufflers :p

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:38 am
by jonno_racing
Gwagensteve wrote:Coilers have fixed windscreens and a smooth cowl.

Steve.
beet me 2 it lol

coilys are prettyer!

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:41 am
by jonno_racing
GRPABT1 wrote:That has far to many mufflers :p
one of my old zooks had 1 lukey sports muffler.. that was it..
had no back presure but it did sound sex!

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:06 pm
by Mudbits
Another donor vehicle. A 1992 Suzuki Farmworker. This time for the cab section:
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Cab Fitting:
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Primed up ready for sanding:
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Front struts

Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 8:31 pm
by Zooknut
Hi mate looks like a good build so far. I have only just sold my coily, it had a pedders lift on it about the same hight. I would just like to point out a couple of things that will help. The suspension mounts on the diffs are very week and need to be reinforced especially if you change to poly bushes for your caster correction. Also the top mount on the struts need to be streangthened it is only about 1.5-2mm thick, your strut will punch through the top eventually so while the front section is off do yourself a favour and make it strong. Good luck with the build and please keep the pics coming. Regards, Nick.

Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:36 am
by Farmz
Looking good.
Time for an update!
Gotta agree with Zooknut. I have an SJ80 and have broken the tab on the diff that the control arm connects to. Am running Poly bushes.
Haven't had any problems with the front towers yet......

Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:50 am
by Mudbits
I have strengthend the strut tower tops with some big washers welded on there.
I dont think the problem is with the diff mounts being weak but, rather in the lack of flex in the chassis end of the trailing arm. i am looking into ways to fix this with a pin rather than a bush. The lack of rotation up there causes the diff to twist off its mounts.
Here are a few more update photos:

Back from the painters
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Body lift
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Bare engine bay
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Inside the body tub. the cleanest it will ever be
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Had to make a pipe from the air flow meter to the Samurai air box
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Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 9:51 am
by DavePatrol
looking good mudbits, just want to no what you mean buy replacing the bushes with pins for more flex?

Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 11:52 am
by Mudbits
With trailing arm ends like a Pajero rear or Patrol front, Land Rover etc. This would allow the arms to rotate as the diff cycles. Im still working on it!

Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:39 pm
by spamwell
i will be ken to see what you come up with, my car has been reinforced so that i don't have any of the cracking/braking issues but i would like to see what sort of travel you gain from it i was looking at doing that next.

sam

Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 1:25 pm
by Mudbits
I have been looking under every 4x4 i find and have come to the conclusion that (cough) Land Rover has the best set up.
They seem to be the only vehicle with arms with a pin on the chassis end front and rear and nice long arms. They also seem to have a good A arm arrangement in the rear. Before i had my Coily i had a Jimny which when out in the bush hardly ever lifted a wheel so, i though the Coily suspension would be the same but, it aint so. We put this Coily on our ramp the other day with 30mm Kings and Ultima shocks with sway bar on and new 30 mud tyres and it only got the same distance up as a stock standard SJ413 on road tyres. Disappointing!

Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 3:44 pm
by DavePatrol
will you be useing the original mounts on the diff and just replaseing the arms or makeing new arms and mounts?

Radius arms

Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 3:12 pm
by Zooknut
It does sound like a good idea to use the pin type radius arms, but it would be a fair bit of work. Have you checked out the arms that snake racing make http://www.snakeracing.com.au/zookdroparms.html there not that cheap but they are allready set with the correct caster angles. IMHO it would be a lot less hassle to put these in. When do you think it will be on the road? Regards, Nick.

Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:05 pm
by spamwell
they don't travel any better they just don't brake the snake arms only fix the arm weakness problem not the travel restriction or the bracket stress problem.

:D AND THEY ARE $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:47 pm
by Mudbits
We have our own range of soild castor corrected arms in 50 or 100mm raised as in the photo below.
Looking for something that will flex a little more.
I hope to have it on the road by the end of this week. Just waiting for the cab to come back from the painters.
It better be finished as we are off to the South Island next week to Zukfest 08 http://www.suzuki-4wd.co.nz/zukfest.html
Its nearly ready just got the gear lever boots to sort out and fit the cab and seatbelts.

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Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 3:17 pm
by saffrett
wat about puting johny joints in the end of ur arms that would work and need no mods to the car just the new arms you have

Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 3:20 pm
by saffrett
wat about putting johny joint in the new arms that way you dont have to touch the car just the arms

Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 6:53 pm
by Gwagensteve
The problem with radius arm suspension is that as the car articulates, the arms a really trying to twist the axle. It's a radius arm design that's the problem and no fancy bushes will fix it. In fact, jonny joints anywhere on a radius arm might actually reduce articulation.

Steve.

Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:49 pm
by Ridge
what is a jonny joint?

Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 2:42 pm
by jonno_racing
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