Outer Limits 4x4 Board

are there any vitaras that you can use a limmy out of for a wide track ?

yes but extremely rare and never in AUS.. your better off with a jimny rear lsd (it bolts straight in but you have to change ratios) but as said in another post here if you thought or know of toyota lsd's they are shit then honestly save time and money and stick with a open sierra diff as jimny lsd's are worse... not going into the arb air lockers are the Poo bs !!!!! ( poo = THE shit/ bomb..)

cheers mark

i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P

alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P

how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

11_evl wrote:

alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P

how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers. Just remember, there are some instances when you are offroad when permanent lockers can be more of a hindrance than a help.

i agree also, and i believe a welded diff is more unpredictable than an lsd. i've had experiance with sook diffs and japanese lsd's, and let me tell, they are not such a bad thing, but for price the air locker is the only diff for me.

for the price?! They are dear as poison compared to a lockright.

i mean price compared to slippery and air locker not amatuer lockrights..........

the reason why ted is looking this way is due to some classes of compertion's dont allow lockers ... and since import sierra came with an LSD it seems better to have then nothing

RockHopper wrote:

11_evl wrote:

alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P

how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.

Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail

what are the particular rules on what you can run in your diff for the events that you are running ?

suzyted are you the one i was going to get the phantom grip locker for ?

VR Rodeo wrote:

RockHopper wrote:

11_evl wrote:

alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P

how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.

Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail

don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. like i said i have alot of experience with jap suzuki lsd's and if you can get your hands on one cheap enough they are a good thing, and i'm not talkin about a hot-rodded one, i'm talking about either genuine or jap aftermarket suzuki model, and not tojo. they are rare but are a good thing. oh...and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.

joeblow wrote:

VR Rodeo wrote:

RockHopper wrote:

11_evl wrote:

alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P

how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.

Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail

don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. Agreed

and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.

My point exactly, both have their faults

VR Rodeo wrote:

joeblow wrote:

VR Rodeo wrote:

RockHopper wrote:

11_evl wrote: how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.

Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail

don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. Agreed

and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.

My point exactly, both have their faults

I agree also, but I know which one I'd rather have . Back on topic, I was on the Calmini site today and found the make an lsd for the rear diff on the Sierra's. http://www.puresuzuki.com/Limited_Slip.htm . I don't know what they're like, but it's an option

joeblow wrote:

VR Rodeo wrote:

RockHopper wrote:

11_evl wrote:

alien wrote:i ran open WT diffs, then a welded rear, and now an ARB air locker in the rear... out of all of them the ARB is by far the go! if you get stuck, flick a switch, drive through that bit and turn it off till you get stuck again =P

how embarrasing, getting stuck.
weld rear and lockrite front, you wont get stuck, you wont have to get stuck than worry bout flicking a switch, on a hill, than trying to get moving again.
just my experience.
no a lsd IMO is not the way to go, unpredictable, they will let you down..
but in saying that if your only prepaired to do beach and low traction work than it will for sure be a stepUP from open centers

If you want a car thats a bitch to drive on the road and steers like a truck offroad then by all means weld and locrite like described above. If you want a car thats drives well on the road and can lock your diffs on demand, go airlockers.

Until the airline splits, the compressor craps itself or the electrics decide not to work. Have witnessed a compressor die, a locker that wouldn't engage and one that wouldn't disengage, airlockers aren't the holy grail

don't think is a thread for that kind of debate. like i said i have alot of experience with jap suzuki lsd's and if you can get your hands on one cheap enough they are a good thing, and i'm not talkin about a hot-rodded one, i'm talking about either genuine or jap aftermarket suzuki model, and not tojo. they are rare but are a good thing. oh...and i've seen plenty lockrights not engage...or not dis-engage...or go sideways round corners...or loose it on the black spur....comes down to many factors.

joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSD

11_evl wrote: how embarrasing, getting stuck.

putting yourself in situations where its tricky to get out of is most of the fun for me =) depending on the obstacle ill go 2wd first, then 4 hi, then 4 low, then the locker if need be... getting stuck is fun!!!

It was my understanding that Calmini are selling genuine Suzuki lsd's sourced from Japan but it would pay to check.

cj wrote:It was my understanding that Calmini are selling genuine Suzuki lsd's sourced from Japan but it would pay to check.

interesting

ofr57 wrote: joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSD

www.lowrangeoffroad.com
dunno why you'd want an LSD though.
Jas.

want33s wrote:

ofr57 wrote: joe have you got any contacts i could chase for a LSD

www.lowrangeoffroad.com
dunno why you'd want an LSD though.
Jas.

the reason why ted is looking this way is due to some classes of compertion's dont allow lockers ... and since import sierra came with an LSD it seems better to have then nothing

joeblow wrote:i mean price compared to slippery and air locker not amatuer lockrights..........

This was probably meant for me to bight but anyway....

Just because someone cannot afford air lockers they are amateurs?

Your' posts certainly do annoy me more than anyone elses on this forum.