Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi Guys,

A shop installed an ARB in my landcruiser 8 inch front diff - high pinion. Everything is new, R and P, bearings, oiler, ARB locker etc. So - it was set up about 2 weeks ago and installed in the truck. I went wheeling for about 20 minutes last weekend and then noticed a bunch pf play in the pinion shaft this morning. I pulled the diff and see that the pinion moved into the locker housing and scored it - lots of metal in the oil. I didn't wheel it hard.

Before I bring it back to the shop I'd like to have an idea of what he could have done wrong. I felt the pinion after he set it up, felt a little tight but he said it would work in a bit once the oil got in. He said the backlash and preloads were all set up right.

Any ideas?? colapsable spacer problem?

This is all I did while wheeling - not even a workout:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSKwZyuWA5M

Thanks

Louis

incorrect pinion preload, or maybe used old spacer. can't say without seeing it.

Everything in it was new, new spacer, locker, r and p, bearings, everything.

I will know tomorrow.

lshobie wrote:Hi Guys,

A shop installed an ARB in my landcruiser 8 inch front diff - high pinion. Everything is new, R and P, bearings, oiler, ARB locker etc. So - it was set up about 2 weeks ago and installed in the truck. I went wheeling for about 20 minutes last weekend and then noticed a bunch pf play in the pinion shaft this morning. I pulled the diff and see that the pinion moved into the locker housing and scored it - lots of metal in the oil. I didn't wheel it hard.

Before I bring it back to the shop I'd like to have an idea of what he could have done wrong. I felt the pinion after he set it up, felt a little tight but he said it would work in a bit once the oil got in. He said the backlash and preloads were all set up right.

Any ideas?? colapsable spacer problem?

This is all I did while wheeling - not even a workout:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSKwZyuWA5M

Thanks

Louis

sounds like the flange nut came loose.

Jes

Dont pull it to bits any further - some workshops get nasty and make all sorts of user error claims once you start pulling their fcuk ups apart.

I'm bringing it to another recommended shop in the morning - thansk for your help - will post the results when I know.

I think you'll find that the workshop that did the original install should be repairing/replacing the diff. If you take it to a different workshop, i'll guarantee that they'll wash their hand of all responsibility and tell you its your own problem.

Coxy

coxy321 wrote:I think you'll find that the workshop that did the original install should be repairing/replacing the diff. If you take it to a different workshop, i'll guarantee that they'll wash their hand of all responsibility and tell you its your own problem.

Coxy

X2

Jes

Agreed, but, I don't want another shit setup, takes a couple of hours to pull a diff in and out and I don't have time for it. I also want to make sure it is done correctly, I don't have confidence in this guy anymore so I dont' want him to touch it. The last thing I want to do is take it out again, or worse, have it tear the new locker, new R and P and the bearings out - then I am out big money.

My dilema.

lshobie wrote:Agreed, but, I don't want another shit setup, takes a couple of hours to pull a diff in and out and I don't have time for it. I also want to make sure it is done correctly, I don't have confidence in this guy anymore so I dont' want him to touch it. The last thing I want to do is take it out again, or worse, have it tear the new locker, new R and P and the bearings out - then I am out big money.

My dilema.

If the shop that installed it made a mistake, they should correct that mistake, and repair/replace and parts that are damaged as a result.
You shouldnt have to fork out $$$ if they stuffed up.


Layto....

lay80n wrote:If the shop that installed it made a mistake, they should correct that mistake, and repair/replace and parts that are damaged as a result.
You shouldnt have to fork out $$$ if they stuffed up.


Layto....

This is correct. You'll find that you can get all sorts of problems such as this sorted out without any lightening of your wallet if you know how to whinge enough. Mentioning Office of Fair Trading and similar always gets you places too.

I've gone through a similar diff problem with a hilux and a local workshop. Needless to say, my friend ended up with a complete new rear diff, locker, and didn't have to pay the $5000 + repair bill that they tried to push onto him.

If they're happy to take the job on, and are happy to take your hard earned money, then you can bet your arse they'd WANT to be happy to fix their stuff up.

If you can afford to pay for someone else to fix up another workshops mess - all i can say is that you must have more money than sense.

Coxy

coxy321 wrote:

lay80n wrote:If the shop that installed it made a mistake, they should correct that mistake, and repair/replace and parts that are damaged as a result.
You shouldnt have to fork out $$$ if they stuffed up.


Layto....

This is correct. You'll find that you can get all sorts of problems such as this sorted out without any lightening of your wallet if you know how to whinge enough. Mentioning Office of Fair Trading and similar always gets you places too.

I've gone through a similar diff problem with a hilux and a local workshop. Needless to say, my friend ended up with a complete new rear diff, locker, and didn't have to pay the $5000 + repair bill that they tried to push onto him.

If they're happy to take the job on, and are happy to take your hard earned money, then you can bet your arse they'd WANT to be happy to fix their stuff up.

If you can afford to pay for someone else to fix up another workshops mess - all i can say is that you must have more money than sense.

Coxy

Exactly - you started with NEW parts, they are now damaged. If it was me, I would be demanding the original shop build a brand new diff again (new locker, new R&P). AFTERwards, you can still get it checked by someone you trust before installing.

I would be after a new R&P at the least - they don't like metal going through them.

Paul

did you fit the diff centre to the car or did they?

its a bit unfair to carry on and say things about any workshop or their workmanship on a public forum without at least giving the store a chance to look at it.

there are a number of reasons why there is metal in the diff,and yes they may have set it up incorrectly,but to jump to conclusions without them even seeing it is not right.

from my experience with these diffs,they are notoriously weak and prone to breaking,even when you think you are going easy on them.

have you considered the possibility that you broke it?
and that the store in question did nothing wrong?

nobody on this forum can fix it or diagnose it through their keyboards,they can only make assumptions.

the best person to take it to is the person that built it,if they stuffed up,they'll fix it.not all workshops are out to rip you off.

I just had a look at the vid as i didn't have time earlier. No offence, but my missus even commented on your "soft" driving style . It took me a while to pick the LHD too - probly be a good idea to fill in your details properly (location etc) too.

Coxy

PS. Nice truck, i like your wheel/tyres combo, and it seems to flex up reasonbly well too!

I didn't really think that he drove it that hard, I dont understand the attraction with mud though. ( i hate replacing wheelbearing and driveline seals)

Hi Guys, I've dropped the diff off at the shop - lets see what the guy says. I've had some bad experiences around here with getting screwed over - then it costs me alot more money, that's why I am hesitant to bring it back. I never actually bad mouthed the shop, never mentioned a name either. Could this have been caused by me? Maybe, but look at the little video and tell me if that should bugger a diff, I've wheeled alot harder than that for years and never had a diff problem several minutes after an install. I have no problem admitting my faults, and will gladly do it if that's the conclusion.

That little off road video was to just test the locker out before a big run this weekend, glad I did it, and glad I checked the diff when I did. It was a soft run, this truck is an ex miner and the tranny transfer are just about worn out on it - new T and T going in this winter, so I am taking it easy until then.

Mud/water/rocks, it's all fun, I've pulled enough hubs and axles/parts off these trucks now that I can do it in short time, I repack my front end twice a year.

The tires are 36X13.5 super swampers, horrible on the highway but good offroad. I've already ripped the sidewalls out of 2 of them and cut the treads up alot - but they are better than BFG's:) The flex is good but the knobs on the tires rub the inside of the fenders were the mudflaps go on spring compression while turning - and the left tire knobs rub the steering arm when turning right. I'll be using 3 inch lift springs shortly as the OME have sagged alot and I am not happy with them.

The rear OME springs were too tight so I removed 3 leafs from them - now they work well but I have lost lift, so I am making some lift shackles and then might add airbags this winter.

Thanks for your input guys.