Page 1 of 1
got an 80 series need opinons?
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:24 pm
by TUFFAS
just got my 96 model 80 series hawksbury edition a few days ago. and just wondering what ideas people would have to help me build the ultimate 4x4 which would be still road worthy a little bit. i have so far put a huge sound system in it, mounted my new light force xgt's, roof rack and getting snorkal fitted on monday. the car already came with dual battries, bullbar and towbar. just as soon as i sell my other car i will be getting started on it. so if people would give ideas on where to start or even some pics that would be great.
cheers brad,
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:26 pm
by Shadow
youl need dual 12" sub's and a monoblock 1000watt amp for starters.
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:31 pm
by Sic Lux
Firstly fire extinguirsiher first aid kit then winch and lockers 3-4 in springs depending on whats able to be done down there some decent rubber and so on.
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 11:44 pm
by adamj1300
don't forget the neon lights
Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:24 am
by chpd80
Good move with the snorkel, that alone will definately give you 200+kw at the rear wheels. Honest
Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 9:35 pm
by pastorslim
Don't know about laws down there, (Think they're easier than up here) But a 2 inch under the body after the 3-4 in the springs is sweet. Did mine recently. Pig of a job though. Radiator needs dropping, hole in firewall where steering arm goes through needs elongating (If that's a word) and need to chop and bit a bit around the gear sticks. Glad it's done tho.
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:27 am
by XXL_45L_CRUISER
You need a 6inch lift,3inch body,37s then what
ever you want after that
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 6:33 am
by Chucky
You need to deceide what sort driving you want to do in the cruiser.
If you weapon that can handle anything and go anywhere you will need a different setup to a tourer.
Huge stereos, and lights all over the bar work wont get you up the track further.
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:44 am
by taps
Lockers, Suspension, Tyres.........Move on, you do not need body lift.
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:39 am
by pastorslim
Body lift is heaps cheaper and keeps your center of gravity low too. Spring lift is big bucks if you go that high, cause of all the other things you need with it, eg castor correction, adjustable panard rods, cardinal shaft or free wheel hubs. But if you have the $$ sweet.
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:16 am
by taps
Pastorslim what advantage is a body lift going to be for him ????
It keeps your center of gravity low ????? including all your barwork !!!!
In no way is this going to improve the off road performance of the vehicle.
Cardinal shaft
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:56 am
by pastorslim
Of course the bars have to go up too. If you go 3 inch in the springs and 2 in the body you get five for the price of a 3 inch spring lift. Keeping your engine low reduces body roll.
You need (should have) a cardinal shaft in the front if you want to go 3- 4 or higher in the springs because the angle at the front uni can detroy it and it makes a hell of a noise at 90+km/h. I put in a free wheel hub kit so the front does not spin at high speeds on the highway.
Body lift has no advantage for off road??
If your sills are two inches further from the rocks, and there's two more inches of clearance under the guards for your big rubber, there's the advantage. (The one I like is it costs about $140 instead of a couple grand.)
I have 3 in the springs and 2 in the body= 5in plus my 285/75/16's and it's sweet.
Of course for flex, a body lift is not as effective as a spring lift but you still get your guard clearance.
Here's mine. The front bar went up by simply redrilling the holes and I made the rear bar with the lift in mind to hide the gap. (I've since hung a tyre carrier and number plate of the rear bar so it doesn't look as chunky now)
Not rocket surgery!!
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 6:10 pm
by Chucky
pastorslim wrote:Of course the bars have to go up too. If you go 3 inch in the springs and 2 in the body you get five for the price of a 3 inch spring lift. Keeping your engine low reduces body roll.
You need (should have) a cardinal shaft in the front if you want to go 3- 4 or higher in the springs because the angle at the front uni can detroy it and it makes a hell of a noise at 90+km/h. I put in a free wheel hub kit so the front does not spin at high speeds on the highway.
Body lift has no advantage for off road??
If your sills are two inches further from the rocks, and there's two more inches of clearance under the guards for your big rubber, there's the advantage. (The one I like is it costs about $140 instead of a couple grand.)
I have 3 in the springs and 2 in the body= 5in plus my 385/75/16's and it's sweet.
Of course for flex, a body lift is not as effective as a spring lift but you still get your guard clearance.
Here's mine. The front bar went up by simply redrilling the holes and I made the rear bar with the lift in mind to hide the gap. (I've since hung a tyre carrier and number plate of the rear bar so it doesn't look as chunky now)
Not rocket surgery!!
Not legal in QLD either
Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 12:16 pm
by 80's_delirious
lucky you spent that $140 bucks on all that rocket surgery. Your sills would of been trashed without it dude
Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 9:40 am
by pastorslim
Oh yeah, I had to edit my post where I said I had 385's, they're 285's and although you can only go 2.5 in the springs, it's a bit hard to tell that it's 3 and it might sag a bit. Don't want to attract the wrong kind of attention hey?