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GQ cal cvs or GU diff????
Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:15 pm
by uzdnabuzd
Just wondering peoples opinion on whether i should get cal cv's for my GQ or just go get a GU diff. Swapping everything over etc should not come in the thought process as that is no issue.
I would like to strengthen my diff be it gq or gu so would probably have to come out anyway.
Not sure what to do. $ value is about the same.
Cheers
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:00 am
by Lewis
i think cal's are the go, stronger than gu and if you damage a gq housing it is cheap and easy to replace unlike a gu housing.
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 2:58 pm
by monstr
[quote="Lewis"]i think cal's are the go, stronger than gu and if you damage a gq housing it is cheap and easy to replace unlike a gu housing.[
X2 ive been runing them in a GQ comp rig for the last year or so ,one of the best things ive thown money at ..Cheers/quote]
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:30 pm
by uzdnabuzd
thanks for the input guys. Keep it coming.
For all those so far that have voted what are your reasons??
Cheers
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:31 pm
by ozy1
i agree, ive been running cals' for a bit over a year and they are awsome, best thing i have spent coin on, was destroying GQ CV's all the time previously,
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 7:55 pm
by turps
If it wasnt for the fact that I already had the GU housing. I would have gone the GQ with Cal CV/axles.
The GU housing does give me twin piston brakes though. So thats a good thing. Yes you can get EFI brakes for a GQ, but there still not as good as the GU twin piston (atleast from what I have been told).
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:35 pm
by uzdnabuzd
Just wondering is there any truth to the talk that the gq housing is stronger than the gu?
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:38 pm
by turps
Either way it is going to need to be braced if its going to be driven hard enough to make stronger CV's worth while.
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:07 pm
by nastytroll
uzdnabuzd wrote:Just wondering is there any truth to the talk that the gq housing is stronger than the gu?
I beleive they are the same housings with different knuckles on the end for the front and thicker flanges on the end of the tube in the rear.
Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:25 pm
by uzdnabuzd
Thanks for all the replys guys. I finally made decided to go with the cal cv's and axles. Ordered them today.
Cheers
Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 8:31 pm
by money_killer
think i will be going cal cv's/axles, tax time this year.
do they have a warranty ?
how easy do centre break seems they are the next breaking point ?
over going out and breaking standard cvs everytime i go out.
Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 8:36 pm
by KYSI
money_killer wrote:think i will be going cal cv's/axles, tax time this year.
do they have a warranty ?
how easy do centre break ?
search again
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic115633-180.php
Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 8:38 pm
by KYSI
and heres a post from the other thread u just posted in
Ok guys, here is the reply from Cal regarding warranty and his position on it. This is direct copy of the email he sent me.
These Cvs and axles have been designed to be the strongest available and are designed for competition use and extreme load and abuse.
they are many times stronger than standard Cv and axles.
As people should realise nothing is unbreakable in hardcore 4x4 and offroad. These joints and axles have proven themselves over and over world wide in many situations.
Anyone that says they have seen heaps break and there is no warranty needs to contact CalOffroad as we have only seen 4 or 5 world wide out of hundreds sold. ( and we are always here you just need to call or email or you can call BBM or Superior as I know either will be happy to
help)
If you are competing and are serious to win then these joints are for you as you need every extra piece of strength and reliability you can get.
WE have done hundreds of hours of real world testing on these joints and axles and they stand up to some amazing abuse.
The only joints that havnt been covered under warranty had some obvious abuse and over steering issues that will cause any joint to break.
The reputation on these joints is very important and they are incredibly strong and any geniune claim is always resolved.
Also out of the couple that have broken 1 was running over 300kw at the wheels. I have seen this truck run nasty hills under full noise with only 1 front side working under increadable load and was unable to break the CalOffroad CV or axle.
we dont offer warranty against breakage as it is unforseen what people put them through and as you know anything can be broken with enough power or gear reduction, however if an item breaks due to faulty workmanship we will replace no problems.
These are so much stronger than standard Cvs and axles that most people will never have a problem.
I know of many people who have spent over $20,000 on diffs and they still break.
these are the strongest you can buy that will fit in the GQ or GU diff.
and we have hundreds of people all around the world running huge tyres big motors etc etc and are loving them with no problems
I also know that CalOffroad BBM and Superior are very fussy on what they sell and will not sell products that they dont beleive in.
customer support is very important to us and if anyone has any problem ever they should just give us a call or email.
regards
Cal Goodman
www.caloffroad.com.au
So please, take the time to read this and then please confirm whether or not you wish to go ahead with your purchase. I hope this clears any misconceptions or doubts.
Rick O'Brien.
Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 8:38 pm
by money_killer
gezzz ur onto it. i should learn to search better
thanks for the info above
Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 8:41 pm
by KYSI
when searching just trying using a single word like "Cal" in stead of "Cal off road", you will find the search works alot better when you dont confuse it
GQ vs GU cv's
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:25 am
by creepy
genuine gu cv holds 1000 pounds of pressure more than a genuine gq cv so gu conversion is notworth it i reckon go the cals can t beat em
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 9:13 am
by 1MadEngineer
my 2c.
a welded and ringed cv is a strong enough upgrade to blow locking hubs and cv stubs, so unless you are upgrading to billet drive flanges or Superiors new billet FWH then all the extra performance (for the $$'s) is lost. Billet steel flanges and locking hubs are proving to be stronger than the chromo cv's (which is odd as toyota longfields are still much stronger than the 4140 drive flanges).
Personally i would use adapted toyota chromo cv's and custom 300M inner axles. WHY? the toyota cv stub axles are ~10% stronger (nissan ~30.2mm dia, toyota 33.1mm dia ) and also around the same price. I have only heard of 2 longfield failures ever in OZ and that is a V8 buggy running water filled 37's and a mad man at the wheel. (and they were still replade under warranty!)....
yes the chromo's are a good bolt in upgrade, but don't expect the world from them! Put it this way, we still have a spare set on hand just in case....
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:49 pm
by gqpete
1MadEngineer wrote:my 2c.
a welded and ringed cv is a strong enough upgrade to blow locking hubs and cv stubs, so unless you are upgrading to billet drive flanges or Superiors new billet FWH then all the extra performance (for the $$'s) is lost. Billet steel flanges and locking hubs are proving to be stronger than the chromo cv's (which is odd as toyota longfields are still much stronger than the 4140 drive flanges).
Personally i would use adapted toyota chromo cv's and custom 300M inner axles. WHY? the toyota cv stub axles are ~10% stronger (nissan ~30.2mm dia, toyota 33.1mm dia ) and also around the same price. I have only heard of 2 longfield failures ever in OZ and that is a V8 buggy running water filled 37's and a mad man at the wheel. (and they were still replade under warranty!)....
yes the chromo's are a good bolt in upgrade, but don't expect the world from them! Put it this way, we still have a spare set on hand just in case....
watch last years OBC dvd. an 80 series blows one very easily trying to winch over the drum in prologue.
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:00 am
by 1MadEngineer
gqpete wrote:watch last years OBC dvd. an 80 series blows one very easily trying to winch over the drum in prologue.
so he blew a 30 spline long? no, 80 series don't run 30's, but i am sure it would have been covered by warranty anyway.....
yay so you 'might' have seen a 24 spline long blow or an axle, or a locking hub? doesn't compare to our pile of parts (some VERY expensive lessons in driveline strength), 5 sets af FWH, 3 pairs of welded cv's, 2 inner axles, 1 chromo cv 'in 3 part' ,(which destroyed a billet flange), 1 chromo inner axle, 3 H233 rear axles, 1 H260 37 spline rear axle, 1 H260 pinion shaft...... I am getting sooooooo over coming up with excuses for driveline failures.
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:05 am
by WICKED
60's all the way!
Weather that is a Dana 60 or a Landcruiser 60's, Both are stronger than GQ, GU or Cal's.