Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi there, I have just had my check engine light come up on the dash on my 2001 XL7. The owners manual states that this indicates a problem with the emission system. I have disconnected/reconnected the battery twice but it still comes on about 10 seconds after starting & doesn't go out.

Anyone had this in a GV/XL7?

Either find an FSM, jump the diagnostic plug and read the trouble code or take it to a dealer.

The light itself doesn't mean anything unless you get to to flash a trouble code.

10 seconds after starting though indicates it's not an oxygen sensor - they normally display a trouble code after some time (up to minutes) as they only come into play after the engine comes off of cold start.

Steve.

Thanks Steve, anything to do with the diagnostics side of things is definately a take it to the dealer job for me! I'm not that keen on dealership service centres, would any mechanic have the equipment to diagnose this?

Matt

Maybe -you'll still need a Factory Service Manual to understand the trouble codes, and to know how to jump the diagnostic plug.

If your car has a OBDII socket ( looks a bit like an old COM plug on the back of a computer) a mechanic might be able to use a generic code reader to find the problem, no guarantee though - the 2000 Baleno swap I did recently only had 2 wires to the OBD socket and they were the same wire that went to the diagnostic plug - I don't think there's much more data coming form that than the trouble codes.

Steve.

Great info Steve, thanks, unfortunately time is not on my side to learn all about the trouble codes etc, as it's the family truckster so it looks like a trip to the dealer.

Anyone satisfied with the service of a particular dealer in Melb? Or a Suzuki specialist who would possibly have the right equipment?

Cheers,

Matt.

weird question but is your fuel cap done up tight? A loose cap can cause a code/CEL apparently.

Thanks PCRman, I just checked the cap & it took a 1/4 of a turn before clicking, I then restarted it & the light is still on - so I'm reasonbly confident that is OK.

Cheers,

Matt.

don't forget to wipe codes after making any changes

You'll most likely have to go to a Suzuki dealer to get the code read. I've tried almost everything and done hours of searching on the internet- the end result was that even though my 2004 XL-7 has an OBDII plug the signals coming out of it aren't OBDII compliant

Being the earlier version you might have more luck? I have got the manual for that version (the USA manufactured model though.....) and it indicates there can be a diagnostic plug in the engine bay. From the drawing it appears to be fastened to the panel next to the windscreen washer bottle?

ECM also indicates trouble area in memory by means of
flashing of malfunction indicator lamp (1) at the time of
inspection. (i.e. when diagnosis switch terminal (2) is connected
to ground terminal (3) with a service wire and ignition
switch is turned ON.)

Otherwise, there is a diagnostic plug for a scan tool under the drivers side of the dash.

DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC)
DLC (1) is in compliance with SAEJ1962 in its installation position,
the shape of connector and pin assignment.
K line of ISO 9141 is used for SUZUKI scan tool to communicate
with ECM (PCM), ABS control module and air bag SDM. SUZUKI
serial data line is used for SUZUKI scan tool to communicate with
Immobilizer control module.

You may be better off biting the bullet and going to a zook serive agent

The error codes for your vehicle should be based on this so that you can at least make sense of what the zook mechanic says

The first digit is a letter which identifies the function of the device or circuit which has the fault. This digit can be either:

P — Powertrain
B — Body
C — Chassis
U — Network or data link code

The second digit is either a 0 or 1 and indicates whether the code is generic or manufacturer specific.

0 — Generic
1 — Manufacturer Specific
The third digit represents the specific vehicle circuit or system that has the fault. Listed below are the number identifiers for the powertrain system.

1 — Fuel and Air Metering
2 — Fuel and Air Metering (Injector Circuit Malfunctions Only)
3 — Ignition System or Misfire
4 — Auxiliary Emission Control
5 — Vehicle Speed Control and Idle Control System
6 — Computer and Auxiliary Outputs
7 — Transmission
8 — Transmission

The last 2 digits indicate the specific fault in that system.

IE code P11XX

would be a manufacturer specific error in the powertrain - fuel and air metering (non injector).

I also have a full list of generic DTC's

Id put money on it been the l/h O2 sensor , only replaced about 50 of them and nothing else ever seems to go wrong.
The flash codes on an xl are stupid, the snap on scanners dont read them properly for some reason.

Hi there, thanks to all of you for the informative replies.

I took it to the dealer today to have the code read - PO135 was the code. O2 sensor, bank 1 (lhs sitting from drivers seat), scooby_74 was right on the money. $45 for the diagnostic check, $360 for the sensor & $90 to fit.
I thought the sensor $$$ was too rich so I sought one aftermarket. No listings in books for XL7 or H27a engine. Last place I went to the bloke behind the counter was willing to make a few calls & found a direct fit replacement for $185. I will fit this myself (hopefully!).

Cheers,
Matt.

xl7fan wrote:Hi there, thanks to all of you for the informative replies.

I took it to the dealer today to have the code read - PO135 was the code. O2 sensor, bank 1 (lhs sitting from drivers seat), scooby_74 was right on the money. $45 for the diagnostic check, $360 for the sensor & $90 to fit.
I thought the sensor $$$ was too rich so I sought one aftermarket. No listings in books for XL7 or H27a engine. Last place I went to the bloke behind the counter was willing to make a few calls & found a direct fit replacement for $185. I will fit this myself (hopefully!).

Cheers,
Matt.

Good to hear its nothing major. Should be a doddle to fit (if its tight go for a drive to heat the thread up)

Don't forget you can't solder the new sensor wire to the old harness. It contaminates the sensor which gets its reference air from down the wire (usually). and check its the same measurements as the old one before installing, sensors are usually non-refundable once fitted.

Apparently it will come with the right plug on it so that side of it is easy. The location is a bit tight, I was thinking of getting a couple of cheap 21mm spanners & bending them to suit if required.

Cheers

my sensor that i did recently was 22mm, might want to check that before bending spanners

I was also told that my new sensor would come with the right plug.....

http://www.ngk.com.au/part_index.htm?ht ... ensors.php

OZA539-J2 <- that's to suit the H25A engine and has a 350mm long wiring loom with plug. I reckon the XL-7 item would be the same.

Thanks PCRman, I will double check the spanner size. I did find the NGK one thanks murcod & I did assume it would be the same. When I quizzed the Suzuki parts bloke he showed me that the 2.5 & 2.7 engines have different part no.s 18213-67D30 2.5ltr, 18213-65d32 XL7. Because of this I tried to find the right one so I'm taking no chances.

Cheers,
Matt.

Cheers, that's handy info that the part number is different.

If you werent in a hurry there are plenty of places in the USA that sell them cheaply, but their XL-7's are made in the USA and LHD which might make some difference.

fit the after market sensor will work fine. the change in the part number at the end, is the supersession. have fitted 10 or so ngk ones no problems.

or order one online $132 plus postage http://suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=1264

have fitted many