Outer Limits 4x4 Board

So I wanted to fit 31's to my Zook. Did a bit of research on this and other forums and came to the conclusion that 31's will fit well with just a 2" bodylift , 2" spring lift and a bit of massaging of the seams. Well, I've done all of that, so can somebody please tell me why my tyres want to punch a hole through my wheel well when I tested it out?? I've attached a couple of photos. I have at home a set of extended shackles that may (or may not) alleviate the problem, but was hoping to get away without using them as I did'nt like the ride quality with them on (and also for legal purposes), and also my bumpstops are unmodified as of yet. Springs are OME's front and back, and I'm using the supercrap vr wagon and hilux shock setup, as I couldn't afford the Rancho's I wanted at the time.
Any Suggestions??

Answers:

*Have you thought about moving your diff forward 25mm?
Redrill diff perches and ubolt plate.

*You may need a 25mm tailshaft spacer also.

It would fix your problem..

Other problems may arise with diff 25mm forward:

*Your shocks look as though they have a big top cover?
Just watch it if you are going to move your diff forward, the shock covers may hit the bumpstop holder on the chassis...

*The bumper bar mounts may interfere with the tyres once the diff is moved forward.

Or:
Bumpstop extensions...May be bad for flex my opinion.

bumpstop extension and above

Redrill the perches and move the diff forward 22mm..
Fit a 25mm driveshaft spacer.
FIT LONGER BRAKE HOSES!!!
Jas.

Everything mentioned above, will most likely have to cut the outer section of the bumper mounts off with a grinder when you move the diff forward if you havn't already. This may require custom mounts for your bar. Also you can gain a fair bit of firewall clearance with a hammer, I had to do this and move the diff forward to suit my shackle reversal setup.

With 235/75/15's before mods:-

After moving diff forward:-

after belting the firewall/flair (flexed up):-

With 31" pedes:-

bash it more, dont be shy.

they will fit without moving the diff.

I have a mate that runs 32 x 10.5 mongrels on a stock narrow track soft top
it has stock springs , 2" ext sahckles and a 2 " body lift wheels are 8" cj jeep offset he claims no rubbing ever
how this is possible is beond me bumpstops I guess but thats what he tells me and he drives the arse out of it offroad

Bring the diff forward is better, but you'll have to sort a few other things then as mentioned (bumper outrigger etc)

I run 31s with no bodylift, but I have the diff forward, a virtual lift and have cut a fair bit out of the headlight buckets to make it work.

redrill the diff 22mm to move it froward, just need to play with the bumper mount.

have that on a car with 31" mtrs and no body lift

Ok. Sounds like moving the diff forward is the way to go. Didn't really want to, but I'm even less keen to taking to the wheel wells with a hammer as the car is in really good nick and am trying to keep it that way (almost cried when I knocked the seams flat). I made up some custom mounts and got rid of the original bumper outriggers some time ago.
Oh, and I've seen this wirtual lift mentioned a few times before. What exactly is a virtual lift??

[quote="]and I've seen this wirtual lift mentioned a few times before. What exactly is a virtual lift??[/quote]

cutting gaurds and mounting them further up.

do a bumpstop extension, bout 10$ and go from there

Taff wrote:bash it more, dont be shy.

they will fit without moving the diff.

x2

Virtual lift only gives more room in the guards up top, It doesnt improve the firewall clearance at all..

RockHopper wrote:Ok. Sounds like moving the diff forward is the way to go. Didn't really want to, but I'm even less keen to taking to the wheel wells with a hammer as the car is in really good nick and am trying to keep it that way (almost cried when I knocked the seams flat). I made up some custom mounts and got rid of the original bumper outriggers some time ago.
Oh, and I've seen this wirtual lift mentioned a few times before. What exactly is a virtual lift??

you're worried about what inside your wheel wells look like?

Obesess much?

GRPABT1 wrote:
you're worried about what inside your wheel wells look like?

Obesess much?

The body on that thing is in perfect shape. I'd want to look after it too. Actually, I wouldn't wheel it. I'd run around town in that and buy another one to mod.

Maybe he should lower it, get a subwoofer and some spinners too?

zookimal wrote:

GRPABT1 wrote:
you're worried about what inside your wheel wells look like?

Obesess much?

The body on that thing is in perfect shape. I'd want to look after it too. Actually, I wouldn't wheel it. I'd run around town in that and buy another one to mod.

When I went looking for a zook, I was looking for something a little rough so it did'nt matter what I did to it, but everything I looked at was over $4000 and they were really rough. Then I chanced across this one on ebay $2700. How could I knock it back?? Call me anal but I'm not a big fan of making parts fit by using a dirty big hammer.

just re drill the pads, have a look at the dark blue one in A.C.T on ebay now. its the wifes and that is where your wheels will sit with redrilling. its got no body lift, bushing of guards and just the bottom end of the bumper mounts ground off

My Zook gets turned on with a good hard hammering
dont be shy its only natural for any red blooded guy to want to hammer his zook

Where is that pic of the Vit on 33's with no lift when you need it....

i cant remember if this had a lift or not

Virtual lift means cutting the guards and moving them up.

I think the problem relates more to rim offset and width than anything. Those look like -24 8" rims to me, and that will be increasing the scrub radius. That's what's causing the rubbing.

Try some 15x7 ROH trak II's and I'll bet it doesn't rub.

Steve.

Your rims look like they are brandnew, Dont get rid of them, Just move your diff forward.

Yep, rims and tyres are brand new. Gwagensteve is right. They are 15 x 8 King Wheels, but I don't know the offset. My instructions to the tyre shop I bought them from was I did'nt want them rubbing on the springs when I went around corners, and sure enough, they don't. Plan is next Saturday I'll move my diff forward by 22mm's and I want to extend the bumpstops, but am not sure by how much to extend them. I read on another post somewhere Gwagensteve mentioned to take a measurement of the shock from top to bottom while the car is sitting on a flat level surface, then subtract 1.5" which is supposed to be the amount of daylight visible from between the bumpstop and the diff housing and another 1" for good measure. So the way I understand it (and I'm more than likely wrong) is the wheels are only supposed to have about 2.5" of uptravel before the diff hits the bumpstops?

Oh, @ 86slowsierra, that 2nd Vitara photo is just not right

GRPABT1 wrote:Maybe he should lower it, get a subwoofer and some spinners too?

I could, but I don't want to risk getting it stolen when I go to Bankstown

Gwagensteve wrote:Virtual lift means cutting the guards and moving them up.

I think the problem relates more to rim offset and width than anything. Those look like -24 8" rims to me, and that will be increasing the scrub radius. That's what's causing the rubbing.

Try some 15x7 ROH trak II's and I'll bet it doesn't rub.

Steve.

I have the same spec rims and no rubbage. tis the pristine firewall that is the problem.

Move the diff I say, this wil help in more ways than one.

GRPABT1 wrote:
I have the same spec rims and no rubbage. tis the pristine firewall that is the problem.

Move the diff I say, this wil help in more ways than one.

Same spec as what?? Mine or what Steve recommended.

Possibly a stoopid question, but I'm just knocking up a guide plate to put over the spring perches so when I drill the holes, they'll be spot on. I measured the locating lug on my old springs against my drill bits, and I guesstimate the holes I need to drill will be 14mm. Can anyone confirm this please??

Rockhopper - there's no need to get into measuring shock lengths. The comments I made about 1.5" of daylight between the axle and the bumpstop related only to Brendan_h's car - that was the measurement he had on his SPOA setup. I was just telling him to use the length of hos shock at ride height - 1.5" (his daylight compression travel measurement) - 1" for safety for figure shock length.

You don't need to do anything that complicated.

IMHO there's no need to space the bumpstops - it's not going to help enough. Your tyre is hitting the firewall at almost 9 O'clock. At that point, bumpstop spacing is only going to make millimetres of difference.

Moving the diff forward 22mm will make a big difference, and you are correct, the hole in the spring plate needs to be about 14mm, but remember you have to drill the spring pad on the axlehousing too, ideally done with the diff out of the car.

Bear in mind too, by moving the axle forward the clearance problem can be moved from the rear of the wheelarch to the front, normally the tyre will start to foul on the edge of the guard lip.

I'm not saying it's 100% going to happen with your setup, but it is possible. It's a by product of the scrub radius of your 8" rims. Remember you've fitted a 5" bigger tyre - the quivalent of a 37" tyre on a cruiser - this is a big jump and assuming you can do it without guard work at all is a big ask.

Steve.

yes you should be ok, My 33's(32"s) scrub in the front behind the headlight, But only just.

It will be ok. Just do it, If you dont like it you can always go back.