Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Looking at getting an 88 Model Nissan Safari TD42 auto SWB at the moment.

What are the differences between the Safari's and the Local GQ's.

I believe that the local ones didn't come with the diesel and an auto.

From what I can see there are minimal differences and the auto really makes it better as the misses would be able to drive it as well.

They are 24v not 12v how hard would this be to change over.

What else is there to look for. Drove it last night but it had been sitting for a while and the shifting wasn't the greatest at first but did get better after a few kays but that was to be expected after sitting for a while.

What else should I be looking for on it. And what are they worth. This one only has about 150,000kays and starts first kick without a puff of smoke to be seen.

cheers

James

There were a few Diesel Autos released localy, but as far as i know they werent large numbers. WIth the 24V system, you may have to change the wring but not to sure, that will be worst case scenario, but if wirings ok, youd need to change bulbs switches wiper motor, and a few other things,


Other than that id do all the usual checks like shafts, body mounts, all safety equipment to make saure its all good,

No major differences.

Local recalls on front panhard mounting and steering stab probably not done but not all afected.
Doors dont have tube in them.
24volts ok. Dont bother trying to change it to 12v.
Down convertors available from truck shope tec etc to run acessories.

Bazzle

What do I have to do to run my 12volt high mount on this vehicle?

Yep great trucks from what i have heard. 4x4 parks in Japan is abt as hard as they are used.

I agree, dont change the wiring, been there, done that and it wasnt good.
It the little things that get ya, wiper dwell, dash lights, blower motor, a/c clutch..

Also I am pretty sure the harness is different. ie 12v needs more current than 24v to run the same things therefore thicker wiring.
Anyone got access to part numbers to verify a 24v vs 12v harness?

Cheers

What do I have to do to run my 12volt high mount on this vehicle?

I'd be getting the high mount re-motored as there is a 24v version, less headaches. Factor this into your purchase price of course.

Cheers

jtraf wrote:What do I have to do to run my 12volt high mount on this vehicle?

Just run it on 24V, will go very good for a short time.
Have heard of a few blokes running 24 v through 12v winch motors, obviously not good for them long term but they last well until stalled.
Then they stop for good.

Juzza wrote:

jtraf wrote:What do I have to do to run my 12volt high mount on this vehicle?

Just run it on 24V, will go very good for a short time.
Have heard of a few blokes running 24 v through 12v winch motors, obviously not good for them long term but they last well until stalled.
Then they stop for good.

I did this to a Gemini with a worn engine once. Compression was so low it wouls not start with a jumper battery. Boss came ove & said "Give us a go ya poofs". Hooked two batteries up & just ran them through the starter (hotwired). Poor old starter wound up, I thought it was going to spin off the block!!! sounded like a mack air start

Gemini chugged out of the workshop & dropped a rod heading for its final destination..... the tip.

Yes definantly keep it 24V--as Bazzle said, down converters are easy to get. There is a 24V motor available for the High mount and from what i've heard, goes better than the 12V version...

NickW

you can probley expect to pay around $900 for a 24v high mount motor.