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lockers or air lockers?
Moderator: Micka
lockers or air lockers?
are the air lockers better? im looking at getting a 83 range rover, never owned a 4x4 before, do i get air lockers or just the automatic lockers? trying to do the 4x4 cheap, but not too cheap
looking at 3" dobinson lift kit
2" bl
snorkel x2
lockers
35" extreme tracker or mtz radial claw
air filter
3" straight through exaust
and extractors
hopefully ill have enough money left over for a slab of beer!
looking at 3" dobinson lift kit
2" bl
snorkel x2
lockers
35" extreme tracker or mtz radial claw
air filter
3" straight through exaust
and extractors
hopefully ill have enough money left over for a slab of beer!
very true.LUKASS wrote:personally i believe you need to think more about your list of mods.
what do you want from your vehicle?
35's and lockers are great for getting you DEAP in the sh!t.
but without a winch whats getting you out?
you cant always rely on someone else to help
I remember a comment many years ago.
mates wife on the fitting of detroits to the rear and TT to the front.
all its really done is to make the car go further into the shit so that its harder to recover or that noone can follow.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
If you're counting your pennies you really dont need to worry about spending dosh on a second snorkel, air filter, 3 inch exhaust and extractors. Your RR will have a 3.5 ltr v8 (unless it has been modified) and you will not notice any difference from these changes and the suggested exhaust will probably too big anyway. Your car will still run fine without these changes..... and you will need $$$$ for other things.
If you are looking at 35's you will need to spend money on axles and diffs. And you will need to get used to changing cv's and stub axles if your not carefull.
My preference would be for an air locker over an auto locker and this will probably also satisfy your uprated diff requirements. It wont wear your tyres as quickly on the road and auto lockers are not very nice on side slopes.
You will see in my avatar that I have my winch cable out. I am running 34 JT2's and do get stuck. (I also have a GU attached to the rear of my vehicle as he couldn't drive out and I couldn't snatch him).
If you are looking at 35's you will need to spend money on axles and diffs. And you will need to get used to changing cv's and stub axles if your not carefull.
My preference would be for an air locker over an auto locker and this will probably also satisfy your uprated diff requirements. It wont wear your tyres as quickly on the road and auto lockers are not very nice on side slopes.
You will see in my avatar that I have my winch cable out. I am running 34 JT2's and do get stuck. (I also have a GU attached to the rear of my vehicle as he couldn't drive out and I couldn't snatch him).
Warn - Dont leave home without it
http://www.aulro.com this site will give u alot of help as outers seems to be more inclined to the intermediate and experienced wheeler
This is a block of text that can be added to posts you make
ha, I would say outers is more for web wheelers if anything!defmec wrote:http://www.aulro.com this site will give u alot of help as outers seems to be more inclined to the intermediate and experienced wheeler
Web wheelers like me and you Grimy AssGRIMACE wrote:ha, I would say outers is more for web wheelers if anything!defmec wrote:http://www.aulro.com this site will give u alot of help as outers seems to be more inclined to the intermediate and experienced wheeler
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Axles are the weak point in the Rover drive train. You will need to upgrade the rear axles when you fit the locker. Try going just with the rear one to start with. Upgraded axles can be got through a mob called Hi Tough Engineering. These are what was formerly known as 'Maxi-drive' axles. Your Rangie will have a 10 spline setup for the axles.onky84 wrote:oh, i should have mentioned the one i was looking at has a bull bar and winch.is there a site or anything for 4x4 beginners? what would i have to do to the axles and diff? is that the gear ratio? sorry to be a tit, and thanks for the info guys
Do you really need to go 35s? If you're starting out is could be better to go up to a 33 and learn more about the right technique, rather than relying on heaps of right foot and traction aids to get you through.
The stock gearing is fine up to 32s and if you get an auto 33's should be ok. Any bigger and the standard diff ratio is too tall (3.5 something) and you'll be looking at changing to 4.11 centres. You'll be looking at something in the order of $1400 to get this done (at least).
The cross pin is the weakest link in any diff thats done a few miles!
I ran 37s on stock gearing but my little 3.5 was a freak motor.
I would spend the money on lockers and axles, fit 35s and enjoy it.
Or even better idea is to just talk about the things you would do on the internet, and never actually do it.
I have all the gear to fit out a rangie but will never break any of it as the rangie is in the driveway and all the mods are in the shed
I ran 37s on stock gearing but my little 3.5 was a freak motor.
I would spend the money on lockers and axles, fit 35s and enjoy it.
Or even better idea is to just talk about the things you would do on the internet, and never actually do it.
I have all the gear to fit out a rangie but will never break any of it as the rangie is in the driveway and all the mods are in the shed
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