Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Looking at buying a stock gq.

How high do I need to get to go to get 35's under it?? Or even 33's??

2" body lift and 2" spring?? Does anything else need to be changed if I went 4" up besides springs and shocks??

TIA

Yeah 2 and 2 will fit 35's on front but prob have to cut rear gaurds (not sure cause i have a ute) with 4" you need to start mucking round with castor and tail shaft angle if shorty

don't need any lift just cut the guards up
thats how mine is sitting now and 35's fit nice, and sits nice and low
just need to bump stop the rear.

with 2" sus and 2" body i manged to get 35's under my mav without any guard cutting.just don't lengthen any of the rear trailing arms and you will be fine, also keeping the swaybars on helps with stopping them rub

Here we go again. With 47 inches of lift I managed to fit 29inch tyres blah blah blah. As mud_runner_GQ said, they will fit with no lift if you cut the guards and tub or bumpstop the rear.

i have 35's under only a 2inch lift no body lift no cutting of body but did have to trim front of rear flares,
and needed to put longer bumpstops in rear as mud_runner_GQ said
when on tracks i just remove the factory flares

Thanks a heap fellers, really appreciate it.

With 2" body lift and 2" spring is there anything that needs to be changed or modded??

Thanks again.

EDIT: Or would something like this be better?? 6" lift with some 35's?? And can ya find this any cheaper??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Patrol-GQ ... dZViewItem

Fmx_Aus wrote:Thanks a heap fellers, really appreciate it.

With 2" body lift and 2" spring is there anything that needs to be changed or modded??

Thanks again.

EDIT: Or would something like this be better?? 6" lift with some 35's?? And can ya find this any cheaper??

no 2+2 is by far best.
but if you WANT a big lift, just save askin and do it

Only asking to get ppl's opinions so I can get a idea and not go about it the wrong way.

I have read a few things around saying with a 4" lift ya need other things sorted, or is it just a 4" spring lift where ya need to do that? And can get away with 2" body and 2" spring without changing anything else??

yea mate it's just the 4"spring needs extra 2 in body and 2 spring need nothing maybe long brake lines in front but thats it they say put rear line in the front and longer one on back

As stated in numerous other post's, yes, you can physically fit 35's under your guards, but you wont be able to flex much.

I have 3 inch springs with 30mm coil spacers and 2 inch body= 6 inches total, and my 33's still rub. I have 2 big marks on the inner guasrd at the rear from flexing up off road. If you are not doing much serious offroading, then go the 35's, (They look chunkier ) but if you like to go wild, maybe go 33's. the extra 1 inch wont be a real big difference under the diff when you are already up to your chassis rails in mud or flexing over rocks.

G'day fellers,

Thanks a heap for the advice. I think I will just stick with 33's. But instead of stuffing around doing a body lift would 2" spring and 30mm spacers be wise?? And if I was to go ahead with the above would doing a body lift later on down the track result in me having to change much besides castors??

How do ppl go about bullbars with body lifts??

Also, anyone out there know what a 2" body lift is worth?? Might be easier to get a shop to do it.

Thanks once again, greatly appreciated

if your going with 33's go 3inch sus lift and live happily ever aftert

body lift you can do yourself, buyign the blocks and shit, its only a few hour job
http://www.gqpatrol.com/bodylift/index.htm

Thanks mate, gonna go with a 3" spring lift and prolly some 15mm spacers. Castor correction and should be ok???

Also, what would a shop charge to fit it all??

Got a mate that can do it for a couple hundred.

Fmx_Aus wrote:Thanks mate, gonna go with a 3" spring lift and prolly some 15mm spacers. Castor correction and should be ok???

.

Do the homework honestly, if you go 3" springs then 15mm spacers i would be surprised if you didn't need castor correction and your brake hoses should be checked for length. Why not just go for 4" coils as you will be 10mm off with what you have said above but you will still have to do castor correction and brake lines anyway.

Guard rubbing is going to happen whatever you do unless you put in longer bumpstops and i don't see the point in restricting it when we are all trying to improve it. My first GQ had 4" susp lift only with 33's and the tyre hit the top of the inner rear guards when flexing to the max. My current GQ with 35's and susp/body lift still rubs the tyres on the inner rear guards.

I bought my GQ with it's body lift so i had my bullbars fabricated to suit etc, not sure I would fit a body lift if i had the choice because you get the good ole 'Nissan Clunk' and you need to extend fuel hoses, raise the radiator shroud etc. Sorry to bombard you but i reckon if you're going 3" and 15mm spacers then go 4" coils..just my opinion.

AY bud,

Thanks for your advice. with the 3" I was going to do the castor correction and brake lines. But if I dont have to do anything extra with a 4" then I guess it would be the way to go right??

I always thought that once ya get to 4" ya need to start doing adjustable panhards, drag links ect ect.

Fmx_Aus wrote:AY bud,

Thanks for your advice. with the 3" I was going to do the castor correction and brake lines. But if I dont have to do anything extra with a 4" then I guess it would be the way to go right??

I always thought that once ya get to 4" ya need to start doing adjustable panhards, drag links ect ect.

Well this is it - what 4wding are you going to do and how much $ do you want to get rid of? It comes down to personal choice and opinion.

4" yes - adj panhards, put the rear brake line to the front and extend the rear, castor correction well you will have to decide between drop arms, bushes or boxes but do your searching on this forum as there is heaps of info. Then you have driveline vibes where gearbox spacers will be required from 3-4" but possibly not with some trucks on 2" - every 4wd is different.

I think a 2-3" susp lift is pretty damn good but you will get rubbing and with 3" max (no spacers) I don't think you will have to worry about brake lines and castor correction.

Plenty of info on here and advice

Ay bud,

Yeh might just stick with straight 3" spring lift, do the castor corrections and brake lines (as they come with the kit).

Have heard the gearbox spacers are a horses arse. How do I know if I need them??

Cheers

Fmx_Aus wrote:
Have heard the gearbox spacers are a horses arse. How do I know if I need them??

Cheers

You will know trust me - then you can decide if they are a horses arse or not

How so mate??

Fmx_Aus wrote:Thanks mate, gonna go with a 3" spring lift and prolly some 15mm spacers..

why spacers?? You wont need them.
keep it simple.. just do shocks and springs, and check your brake lines

Mate, anything over a 2 inch lift is going to need caster correction and panhard lengthening. Bodylifts suck on a Patrol so don't even think about going there. Any tyre is going to rub on the inner rear wheel well as soon as you put longer shocks than standard in.

For the money you are thinking of spending on caster correction, panhards, brake lines etc. you would be better off paying a panel beater to trim your guards properly and fit a two inch lift with two inch bumpstop extensions and running a slightly wider offset in your rims with 35s.

dklyne454 wrote:As stated in numerous other post's, yes, you can physically fit 35's under your guards, but you wont be able to flex much.

I have 3 inch springs with 30mm coil spacers and 2 inch body= 6 inches total, and my 33's still rub. I have 2 big marks on the inner guasrd at the rear from flexing up off road. If you are not doing much serious offroading, then go the 35's, (They look chunkier ) but if you like to go wild, maybe go 33's. the extra 1 inch wont be a real big difference under the diff when you are already up to your chassis rails in mud or flexing over rocks.

Your kidding right? This has got to be a gee up. To go wild 4wding you need to go smaller in tyre size. Stop it, please your killing me.

My 37s seem to flex just fine and I have less lift than you. This was when I had the body lift in, which I have since removed and it flexes exactly the same without it. Currently run 37 inch tyre with 4 inch springs and about to go lower again as soon as the springs and shocks turn up.



If you think we don't do any serious offroading, then I suggest you come out with the Ozwheeler boys and show us how it's done.

and by the looks of the bare metal in your inner gaurds, you scrub in a bad way.

In reading from the start, advice was even offered about not needing lift or even only two inches.

As i dont have enough money to throw away, i like to look after my tyres, and at 4 inches , it was making a hell of a noise and rubbing and wearing on the inner edge of my tread, after i fitted a 2 inch BL, it was not barely touches now, so yes i would advise to MAYBE go the 33 insted of 35 as i am sure the 35 would rub worse than a 33.

I apologise for stating you wont be able to flex much, i should have said, "you wont be able to flex much before scrubing your tyres, and doing it 1 inch sooner than with 33's."

In regards to extra lift under diff. i went out the other week, and there was a maverick with exactly the same setup as mine with 35's instead, and there was very liitle noticable difference in hight,. but, i did get more flex with LESS rubbing than he did.

In all effort's i try to offer advice that isn't going to damage the new product.

That was before the bumpstop extension so it doesn't rub as bad now (one side just touches the other doesn't touch at all), but you will always get some rubbing unless you run offset rims. The way mine is now (no body lift with 65mm bumpstop extensions) the tyre hardly touch the inner guards and certainly don't damage tyres or make noises.

If you haven't ground your seat belt bolt down to the nut it will make a terrible racket and chew up the lugs on your tyre. Also, if you have a body lift the inner wall of the tyre can be cut by the sharp edge of the body that is now sitting two inches above the chassis so you may need to fold the edge under as well. If you don't have a body lift, you have nothing to worry about except the seat belt bolt.

Is it possible to get a shop to put the extended brake lines and castor bushes in before the springs and shocks get done??

I'm thinking of gettin the shop to do the bushes and brake lines, then will bring it home and put the springs and shocks in myself??

ie: Will having the castor correction bushes in without the lift root anything??