Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Any Photos of hydraulic bump stop cans welded in so that I can get an idea on how to mount them properly. Thanks. Much appreciated.

LudaCris

Few pics on the following links. The consensus seems to be to weld a bracket to the can and then weld to chassis as in this picture below.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.p ... bump+stops

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.p ... bump+stops

Go on www.race-dezert.com/forum dezert racer site but everyone runs them plenty of pics.

Thanks fellows. Heaps helpful.

LudaCris

Didn't even know they existed

Hijack - What bump stop would be best on a leaf sprung hilux that has:
Rears up front / leafs removed / extended shackles (so pretty flexi)

Looking at ordering from:
http://www.suspension.com/Bumpstop.htm

Was going to go the 80series bumpstops but they want $80 each at the wreckers and i reckon it would be cheaper to get these american ones which are new

try pedders for the 80 series bumb stops i think i paid around 50 each new

Have just put a set of King 2.5's in the GQ race rig, still have some gusseting to do but they work good!

It's not a easy job! take ya time, coz if you put them in wrong you can bind them up on the spring. And also use the coldest welder you can get ya hands on as the tubes (cans) are made from Cro-Mo and if you put to much heat on them it will 'blister' inside and you wont be able to get the bumpstop back in, unless you have a course stone hone and even if so be prepared for at least a 1/2 hr of honing as the stuff is tuff!

There a bit freaky to drive with as they bang a bit when they hit the contact surface on the top of the diff, And also you can pump them up to 300psi with Nitrogen, OH Important!......If you can try not to get them already pumped up, as they will be a nightmare to fit as the total lenth of them when pumped up is 19 inches!

Will put some pics up if you need them

Steve.

remember they are bumpstops. I have seen them set up as shocks half way through the travel which make tuning of bypass shocks very hard. They should only touch on BIG wash outs / massive jumps etc. some vids like wasteland warriors show them working and they contact about 3 times in 5 mins desert racing. As for mounting I have seen a few inside the chassis rail (ie holesawed from above rail right through cutting chassis in 2 then using the can to hold the chassis together.) as there are space problems on trucks. Brace it very well or it will fail if cutting the chassis through.

cheers bru

remember they are bumpstops. I have seen them set up as shocks half way through the travel which make tuning of bypass shocks very hard.


What you might be seeing there is for some restricted classes allow bumps but have to retain factory sway bars. So they mount the bumps low to help out the sway bar reduce body roll.

It also has to do alot with the 'bind lenth' of your springs.
Is no use having a bumpstop set to high that it allows the spring to bind before all the effectivness of the bumpstop is achieved, the whole idea of it is to take some of the shock load out of the front end, you will not hurt them as that is what they are designed to do.
Had a heap of help from James here in S.A. ( the off-road shop) in getting the set-up right, he is a buggy bloke.

Steve.

heres a couple of pics of how me and my navi set mine up.







I have a 4" lift so we slid everything up 2", that way if i ever want to lower the spring height all i have to do is cut off the striker plate and make a slimmer one.

If you can get one use a tig to weld the gussets to the cans as i spent 5 hours honing mine out

Also i took the rubber bump stops off the back and welded them under the chassis rail. when i set up the stricker plate i allowed for 20mm compression of the rubber so as not to bottom out the hyd bump stops.

cheers smitty

Here's another idea for ya hammey, the missus came up with it!

Now you have finished run a bit os sillicone around the base of the can where it meets the bumpstop as well as up the top where the allen key bolt sticks out on the one side ( as well as the secondary holein the top) as this will stop the ingress of grit which will jam the bumpstop in there if you ever need to get it out!
Thought it was a great idea, stops them gettin jammed on from dirt being inside!.....she's a clever little girl!

Steve.

Top idea mate, thanks for that.

all my wife said was "thats a nice blue"

cheers smitty

all mine said was "THAT cost $800"

try construction sealant instead of silicone as silicone attracts and holds moisture starting rust.

Awsome. Some great ideas. Thanks.

LudaCris

To stop the blistering pack them with wet cotton wool or similar and keep it wet !! works a treat...do the welding bit at a time then rip the cotton out and wack the bumpstop in