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Another broken CV in 80 - what to do?

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:43 pm
by stinger
I have broken another CV in the 80. This is about the 3rd or 4th I have broken. I have an Airlocker in the front and with it being a poverty pack Free Wheeling Hubs. With a Turbo 1HZ motor on one end and 35s ET2 on beadlocks on the other end, this is not surprising.

So far I have just bought $70 CV from Driveline services. My question is, do I just continue to replace the CVs with cheap one and treat it as a sacrafical part (as opposed to axles and diffs) or could I up the anti with some stronger one and hope the next part to break is the Free Wheeling Hubs rather than diffs and axles???

If I upgrade what should I upgrade too?

Thanks for the advice in advance
Stinger

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:48 pm
by hypo

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:26 pm
by Sic Lux
Enough said :D

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:28 pm
by rezpkt
Time to spend some coin.
Longfield FJ80 super set with hub gears.

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:49 pm
by MissDrew
Yep, wouldn`t even bother wasting your money on anything else. When I break our first CV in our 80 It`ll only get replaced with longs.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:03 am
by dow50r
f you can get a toyota c/v it will last ages, they usually snap in the cage. The chinese ones snap on the axle part quite easily, check the grain of the exposed metal....its cheese

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:39 pm
by crankycruiser
I couldnt count how many cv's i have killed in my 80,

I wish i had spent the money i had wasted on cv's on my new longs....

I have given these things a absolute kaining and they are still going strong.!!

Go LONG's!

get em from locktup4x4, they are very helpful ;)

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 6:43 pm
by chpd80
Longs are the best but if you cant afford them genuine toyotas are far stronger than cheapees.

Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 5:41 pm
by g35me
Go longfields. Unbreakable.

Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 5:56 pm
by MUD000
Longs are the best but if you cant afford them genuine toyotas are far stronger than cheapees.

Cheaper to go longs than genuine
$470 each gen no axels
$350 each drive flange gen
Longs are cheaper & you get axels as well
Cheers Dan

Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:57 pm
by sloshy
Guts wrote:Yep, wouldn`t even bother wasting your money on anything else. When I break our first CV in our 80 It`ll only get replaced with longs.
You don't even drive the hilux hard let alone the 80 :finger:

Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:46 am
by MissDrew
sloshy wrote:
Guts wrote:Yep, wouldn`t even bother wasting your money on anything else. When I break our first CV in our 80 It`ll only get replaced with longs.
You don't even drive the hilux hard let alone the 80 :finger:
Thats why I`m waiting for 1 to break before replacing them. This way it might be 10 years before I have to buy them :finger: Oh and thats why I can afford a boat :finger:

CVs

Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 9:49 am
by stinger
Where is the best place to by Longfields???

Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:32 am
by MissDrew
Either phone long direct and just order them over the phone with your credit card.
OR
Locktup sell them at very good prices ;)

Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:19 pm
by sloshy
Guts wrote: Oh and thats why I can afford a boat :finger:
What boat??

.

Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:43 pm
by lukes4x4
All i can say is call LOCKTUP and get the LONGFIELDS on order. You will have them in 10 days at your door.

CV

Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:44 pm
by stinger
Having trouble justifying $500 for one CV or $1400 for full set of CV and axles....

At $75 for a normal CV I would have to go though 5-6 CVs at the current usage rate of 1 a year that is 5 years of CVs.

I have also been told about another strengthened CV in Brissy for $550 a pair, not certain what they do to strengthen them (sent a PM but no response). These sound a little more reasonable.

I also service a company that harden rock drilling components by heating and cooling, wondering if I gave them a set of CVs would that work?

Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:57 pm
by craz3d
Except the longfields have a lifetime warranty against breakage - this one off purchase will last you forever - never have to buy them again.

Re: CV

Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 8:13 pm
by evanstaniland
stinger wrote:Having trouble justifying $500 for one CV or $1400 for full set of CV and axles....

At $75 for a normal CV I would have to go though 5-6 CVs at the current usage rate of 1 a year that is 5 years of CVs.

I have also been told about another strengthened CV in Brissy for $550 a pair, not certain what they do to strengthen them (sent a PM but no response). These sound a little more reasonable.

I also service a company that harden rock drilling components by heating and cooling, wondering if I gave them a set of CVs would that work?
the added bonus of longfields is that you dont really have to worry about breaking them so no more shiat cv changes on trails!!

iv never broken a CV but as soon a i out reduction gears and big tires on i put them in for reassurance

Evan

Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:15 pm
by yodaboy90
i seen on ebay a few days a go 2 new cv's for $80 bucks i would buy 2 or 3 sets cause ya break them like tooth picks lol i have 2 spare in my rig

Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:22 pm
by CV Smasher
Learn from everyone elses mistakes......... by the longfields, i had them 7 days after i ordered them direct from longfield.

Re: CV

Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:00 pm
by Micka
stinger wrote:Having trouble justifying $500 for one CV or $1400 for full set of CV and axles....

At $75 for a normal CV I would have to go though 5-6 CVs at the current usage rate of 1 a year that is 5 years of CVs.

I have also been told about another strengthened CV in Brissy for $550 a pair, not certain what they do to strengthen them (sent a PM but no response). These sound a little more reasonable.

I also service a company that harden rock drilling components by heating and cooling, wondering if I gave them a set of CVs would that work?
Not sure where you are getting the $1400 idea from :?

The 4-piece super set for 80 series is US$750 + freight. It would work out to about $1100.

But that is for the STRONGEST CVs and AXELS AVAILABLE for a Toyota.

Forget about the backyard solutions.

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 12:03 am
by g35me
$1112au delivered in 4 days.

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:52 am
by dow50r
something else to consider....longs will wear out....especially if you put them in constants...they are strong, but that comes at a cost of wear and tear. Best to put longs in part time, best of both worlds...if you are having problems justifying the expense, buy secondhand toyota ones in a diff and you have spare gears/housings for frees.
Andrew

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:06 am
by MissDrew
dow50r wrote:something else to consider....longs will wear out....especially if you put them in constants...they are strong, but that comes at a cost of wear and tear.
So the standard ones will not wear out too :roll: Even a worm out long is going to be way stronger then a new standard CV.
Yes they will last longer in a part timer but so will a standard one (unless its busted by big wheels etc)

For me I hate working on my rigs these days, so I wouldn`t even think about replacing them with standard ones. I`d prefer to spend that hour or 2 in my pool :armsup:

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:49 am
by BUSTED100
with the longs wearing out in the constants 4wd cruisers (have to keep constant due to ABS etc...) what type of kms are we talking about before they're dead?

and do they make for the 105's?

Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:05 pm
by dow50r
Gday Steve
you may get 250kms out of std ones, longs would not last that, maybe half before they started clicking...but as has been said b4, they wont break....
Dont know if you can get 100 longs, you may need to put 80 ABS ones in (swap the ring over) and get a pair of 78 freewheelin hubs....the 78 run an 80 c/v with a larger hub.

CV

Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:21 pm
by stinger
So if I replace the axles and CVs with Longs and already have an air locker in the front, what is the next week point? The FW Hubs or the diff???

Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:27 pm
by +dj_hansen+
Probably depends on how worn the diff is and the direction you are travelling, possibly the output on the transfer, not sure if these are a weakpoint in cruisers.

If in a straight line id say front diff due to the rotation and design of the diff being weaker forwards.

Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 10:41 pm
by evanstaniland
prob do a hub before a center!

Evan