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wheel carrier fab questions - lactches??

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 12:05 pm
by shorty_f0rty
PJ.zook wrote:You can buy hubs that dont have flanges that are perfectly suited for the application. I used one on a bar i designed and made here:

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I'm having difficulty locating a flangless hub for use on a rear bar..

could anyone help out and point me in the right direction on where I could find one please?!

its for use with this rear bar setup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic145774.php (or will be)

thanks.

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:01 pm
by Steve F
Here http://www.trailerparts.net.au/ go to shop, hubs complete, hubs and they are down the bottom of them all (well close to the bottom) I got mine from here and it arrived nice and quick.

Cheers
Steve

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:35 pm
by InSanE
I used the same place i ordered one the other week they are in WA and I am in melbourne it cost me $94 for 2 of them they came with the flangeless hub a dust seal, 2 bearings and a cap well worth the money they are very well made

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:16 pm
by shorty_f0rty
thanks guys this is EXACTLY what im after..

ive been ringing around trailer places all day today and no one understood what i was talking about or why i wanted it (even after trying to explain).

I think i'll be making an order very soon.

thanks again!

one other question. this hub will fit any axle stub (ie those from super heap)

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:24 pm
by Steve F
As long as you get the hub that matches the axle you'll have no problems, the hubs are standard sizes so will fit the relevant axle type.

Cheers
Steve

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:38 pm
by InSanE
the hub and bearings from that triler parts place are to fit a holden trailer stub axle that should be available at any trailer shop around.

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 10:53 pm
by Loanrangie
shorty_f0rty wrote:thanks guys this is EXACTLY what im after..

ive been ringing around trailer places all day today and no one understood what i was talking about or why i wanted it (even after trying to explain).

I think i'll be making an order very soon.

thanks again!

one other question. this hub will fit any axle stub (ie those from super heap)
I used a supercrap stub axle no probs, you can use holden or ford with the correct bearings to suit.

Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:10 am
by PJ.zook
Be careful with the Trailerparts mob, i ordered through them and they sent me the hub, spindle and two catches via courier instead of normal post without even asking, which cost $120 for the courier alone. Of course i refused to pay, problem was i already paid for the parts via credit card, which they then used to charge the cost of courier to. They lucky i too lazy to do anythin about it.

Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:05 am
by 80's_delirious
PJ.zook wrote:Be careful with the Trailerparts mob, i ordered through them and they sent me the hub, spindle and two catches via courier instead of normal post without even asking, which cost $120 for the courier alone. Of course i refused to pay, problem was i already paid for the parts via credit card, which they then used to charge the cost of courier to. They lucky i too lazy to do anythin about it.
dude if you are that lazy, give me your credit card number :D :D
you dont mind if I bill you $120 every now and then??

.

Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 10:25 pm
by lukes4x4
i just get a hub any pattern and lathe off the flange. never had a problem. and done heaps this way.

Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 11:11 am
by Look'n 4 Mud
Hey guys,

Spoke to this guy yesterday and ordered the flangeless hub from him to come to Melb.

The hub is about $30 and he will include the bearing set for the stub axle that you have or supply you the stub.

He was telling me that he turns them up himself out of Axle steel and sells a heap of them in WA.

Told him to get on here and have a look and post his details but it is the guy noted at the top of this thread.

I think it cost me for the flangeless hub and the bearing set delivered to Melb around the $50mark

ALL GOOD!! :D :D :D :D :armsup: :armsup: :armsup: :armsup:

Hubs

Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:14 pm
by stinger
I agree with Lukes, just buy any old hub and machine or cut and grind down the flange and weld straight to it. It is only a wheel carrier and I have made a few now this way with anything from 30 to 35 inch tryes hanging off them and a few have even been across the Simo and back not even a sign of it having a problem.

Why pay more......

Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 11:09 pm
by PJ.zook
If you can be bothered cutting flange off, do it, but the flangeless one from the trailer joint is a nice and easy unit. Plus the fact that most if not all the flanged hubs are cast, whereas the flangeless one that the trailer joint sells isnt, or at least it didnt seem to be when i welded it, ie good thing.

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:37 am
by shorty_f0rty
Ok.. next question..

what did you use for a latch and where did you get them..

anyone know any QLD based distributers for various latches.

thanks.

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:01 am
by Bluefreak
shorty_f0rty wrote:Ok.. next question..

what did you use for a latch and where did you get them..

anyone know any QLD based distributers for various latches.

thanks.
Google 'over center latches', something like this should do the trick
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We use a very similar latch at work, get them from the local bolt bloke...

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:28 am
by Steve F
I used a slam shut latch (same as a car door rated to minimum of 2500lb I think) A little more work to fit but I'm glad I did, it's been on there for about 1 1/2yrs now with no problems at all. Having it located under the arm means it's easy to get any mud out and keep it working smoothly.

Got it from concept latches in Vic (I made the handle)

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Cheers
Steve

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:03 am
by want33s
I am going to make a carrier for my Zook soon but I want to keep it relatively lightweight.
Most people use a wheel hub which is quite heavy and way over the strength needed. Hub is designed to handle up to 1000kg whereas a spare wheel is only a fraction of that.

Has anyone thought of using Farm gate hinges?
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Jas.

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:05 am
by shorty_f0rty
Bluefreak wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:Ok.. next question..

what did you use for a latch and where did you get them..

anyone know any QLD based distributers for various latches.

thanks.
Google 'over center latches', something like this should do the trick

We use a very similar latch at work, get them from the local bolt bloke...


thanks.. just the piece of info i needed.. looking now.. :)

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 11:39 am
by Corgie Carrier
Ebay usually has them really cheap.

Saw a batch of 4 go for around $11 not long back. You could sell the others to ya mates or give em away at that cost.

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:50 pm
by PJ.zook
People use stub axles as they are easy but mainly because they dont rattle. If you use something like that farmgate hinge, it will most likely rattle and drive you bonkers.

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 5:05 pm
by ISUZUROVER
want33s wrote:I am going to make a carrier for my Zook soon but I want to keep it relatively lightweight.
Most people use a wheel hub which is quite heavy and way over the strength needed. Hub is designed to handle up to 1000kg whereas a spare wheel is only a fraction of that.

Has anyone thought of using Farm gate hinges?
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Jas.
As well as the possibility of rattling, you would want to make sure there is no chance the whole thing can just lift up and fall off!!!

I don't like hubs either though. I just bought a couple of grade 8 bolts, some tube and some nylon, and machined myself a couple of bushed pivots.

Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 5:17 pm
by want33s
ISUZUROVER wrote:
As well as the possibility of rattling, you would want to make sure there is no chance the whole thing can just lift up and fall off!!!

I don't like hubs either though. I just bought a couple of grade 8 bolts, some tube and some nylon, and machined myself a couple of bushed pivots.
I would shim the gap with nylon/copper/brass and fit a spring on top with a washer and split pin to stop it lifting off by itself.
I don't think the pins would really be needed though as the catch that keeps it shut would also stop it from lifting.
Jas.

Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:22 am
by Bluefreak
ISUZUROVER wrote:
want33s wrote:I am going to make a carrier for my Zook soon but I want to keep it relatively lightweight.
Most people use a wheel hub which is quite heavy and way over the strength needed. Hub is designed to handle up to 1000kg whereas a spare wheel is only a fraction of that.

Has anyone thought of using Farm gate hinges?
Image

Jas.
As well as the possibility of rattling, you would want to make sure there is no chance the whole thing can just lift up and fall off!!!

I don't like hubs either though. I just bought a couple of grade 8 bolts, some tube and some nylon, and machined myself a couple of bushed pivots.
Used 3 of these, one inverted to stop it from lifting
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to make a pushbike carrier for my sisters combi a few years back, 2 of the 3 had weld failures on the hinge, NOT my welds, the top hinge broke away completely and the middle one had a fatigue crack in it - so if three mountain bikes can do that, imagine what the stress load of a spare wheel can do - I think the farm gate hinge will fail as they aren't designed to be shock loaded, just my opinion though.

Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:39 pm
by shorty_f0rty
sourced these from here: macnaughtans 32162444 at virginia, qld.

thanks to 265grunter for the hot tip.

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Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:01 pm
by hyzook
want33s wrote:I am going to make a carrier for my Zook soon but I want to keep it relatively lightweight.
Most people use a wheel hub which is quite heavy and way over the strength needed. Hub is designed to handle up to 1000kg whereas a spare wheel is only a fraction of that.

Has anyone thought of using Farm gate hinges?
Jas.
I have used tube over a bar and at the top is a bolt through a bracket holding it down, after 6 odd years its still fine and doesn't rattle.

For the latch I made a custom sliding over centre lock which hooks to a bar on the tailgate (it doesn't carry any weight), this means to open the tailgate I don't need to open the carrier first. see pics for a better explanation.

The bracket at the top is probably not needed
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Door open (note sliding latch position on bar)
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Door closed (note sliding latch position on bar)
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Carrier open
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I have just use light pipe for the frame.

Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 2:26 pm
by MART
This works well , Cheers Paul.


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