Outer Limits 4x4 Board

is it worh making drawers out of steel or wood for weight as im looking for light as possible or do they both weigh basicly the same

i can make them myself out of wood

i have to pay someone to make them out of steel

Having made a set out of ply and then thrashed it on a trip, I'd say it depends on a few factors.

1) How well you plan on making them
2) What you plan on storing in, and more importantly on, them
3) Where you plan on going with them

If it's just for a weekend warrior to store tools then ply's fine. But I'd consider at least making the frame out of steel if it was for an outback tourer.

i got off road systems to make me a steal frame with draws on runners than built the rest out of ply wood i was going to just use wood than after thinking about it realised it was alot harder and not as strong so id say steal frame and draws than ply on top and front to finish it off





the steal frame i got made by www.offroadsytems.com.au







the finished result, you can see i just yoused ply for the base, front and top

cheers scott

I've made numerous systems out of ply and they have held up well to both outback touring and hard weekend trips.
Using 12mm ply will be a lot lighter than the steel units. You just need to be particular on how you make it and how you reinforce it.

i was goin to use form ply and cut the bottom into 4 triangles for a bit less weight

i plan on making them really good as i have the know how and acess to the right tools just not sure what way to go

also mainly weekend trips of the harder nature

http://www.geocities.com/hay_dj/Patrol/ ... ystem.html


Cubelock

Hey mate,

I have made a few sets for myself and others using 12mm and 15mm ply.

All come up really well. As long as you dont expect the thing to nail together and go for a thrash.

Glue and Screw everything, cover in carpet everywhere. (stops rattles)

Tip. In the earlier versions i used a single set of heavy duty kitchen pot drawer bairing runners. In the current version that i run in my truck i have set it up with 2 sets of runners stacked on top of each other with only one drawer. I carry at least 40kg of tools in this and never had a problem with it.

Tip. Give allot of thought to how you will hold all this down!! Look at you factory tie down points or seat mount points and use them and more. Your drawers may weigh +100kg with stuff in them and a cargo barrier will not help you if it all goes to shit. Think about how your drawers will perform Up Side Down and make them with this in mind!! If this ever happens you dont want to wear them!!!!

Good luck with your build

cheers

bogged wrote:http://www.geocities.com/hay_dj/Patrol/ ... ystem.html


Cubelock

I have been looking for that site again for the name of that stuff cheers Bogged. Does anyone know where I can buy cubelock from?

Steel has a tendency to drum and make a lot of noise.

My frame is 16 x 16 RHS and my drawers are 3mm sheet steel guided by cam follower bearings.

It's rattly and noisy but they will never break.

If I did it again I would go steel frame and wooden drawers.

Cheers

Kramer wrote:

bogged wrote:http://www.geocities.com/hay_dj/Patrol/ ... ystem.html


Cubelock

I have been looking for that site again for the name of that stuff cheers Bogged. Does anyone know where I can buy cubelock from?

capral alloy

bogged wrote:

Kramer wrote:

bogged wrote:http://www.geocities.com/hay_dj/Patrol/ ... ystem.html


Cubelock

I have been looking for that site again for the name of that stuff cheers Bogged. Does anyone know where I can buy cubelock from?

capral alloy

Cheers, found the website http://www.capral.com.au/ and the gear is spelt Qubelok.

Press metals Australia also sells cubelock.Its also about 1/2 the price of capral.

Hmm thats a handy thing to know Revin, been looking into buying a bit of it to make a frame.

I made my drawers from sheet metal, as its durable and waterproof. Dont have any pics of em finished tho, will post some tomorra.

also alspec sell cubelock section the only thing i didnt like about it is the joiners / corners are plastic

Bunnings sell it.

Steel tube frame and ply. The weight of the average frames are only about 25-30kg which is bugger all compared to weight of the gear that goes in the back and about the same as all the 12mm ply, carpet and fittings etc. Some of you are worried about such a piddly amount of weight With the frame bolted to factory mount points eg: 3rd row seat mounts, it aint going anywhere and can be easily removed by removing the drawers and simply unbolting it off the floor.

how durable is this cubelock stuff? what are the connectors made out of? i want to make a rack for above the tray of my ute but want to keep it light weight and i can't weld. rough cost per metre? cheers

$24 per 6.5m length from capral.
Joiners are about $1.50

Bunnings sell the stuff, but at about $18 per 2m

I've just made some this weekend.

Cheers

daveo wrote:how durable is this cubelock stuff? what are the connectors made out of? i want to make a rack for above the tray of my ute but want to keep it light weight and i can't weld. rough cost per metre? cheers

2 people on exploroz forum made a rear shelf/drawer system and after their first trip they pulled it out because the plastic joiners cracked/broke. I don't have any details of how they were treated or where they went. If you could make the joiners out of alloy/steel it would be much stronger. Haven't used the stuff myself though.

nabstud wrote:

daveo wrote:how durable is this cubelock stuff? what are the connectors made out of? i want to make a rack for above the tray of my ute but want to keep it light weight and i can't weld. rough cost per metre? cheers

2 people on exploroz forum made a rear shelf/drawer system and after their first trip they pulled it out because the plastic joiners cracked/broke. I don't have any details of how they were treated or where they went. If you could make the joiners out of alloy/steel it would be much stronger. Haven't used the stuff myself though.

yeh thats what i was thinking. after a bit of googling i found a catalogue from some tasmanian mob called nubco which have a similar product except its gal steel and the joiners are gal steel coated with plastic would be much more durable except they are in tas. would be great to get some of that and then put a tec screw through the joins once assembled.

ill garuntee that nubco will be more than happy to ship for you. freight wouldnt cost much either. give em a call and they will help ya out.

narns1mav wrote:is it worh making drawers out of steel or wood for weight as im looking for light as possible or do they both weigh basicly the same

i can make them myself out of wood

i have to pay someone to make them out of steel

Or you could just keep your eye out for a used set of Black Widow style drawers.

just buy dads narns, his are up for sale

i have a gas tank in the way ( behind seat ) so blackwidow wont fit

i have also started making them tonite

narns1mav wrote:i have a gas tank in the way ( behind seat ) so blackwidow wont fit

Never was a fan of a gas tank inside the car...

What sort of design are you going for?

I prefer boxes

This weighs less than 15KG inc boxes, and I can jump up and down on it.

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/rear-st ... 100-series

Paul

daveo wrote:

nabstud wrote:

daveo wrote:how durable is this cubelock stuff? what are the connectors made out of? i want to make a rack for above the tray of my ute but want to keep it light weight and i can't weld. rough cost per metre? cheers

2 people on exploroz forum made a rear shelf/drawer system and after their first trip they pulled it out because the plastic joiners cracked/broke. I don't have any details of how they were treated or where they went. If you could make the joiners out of alloy/steel it would be much stronger. Haven't used the stuff myself though.

yeh thats what i was thinking. after a bit of googling i found a catalogue from some tasmanian mob called nubco which have a similar product except its gal steel and the joiners are gal steel coated with plastic would be much more durable except they are in tas. would be great to get some of that and then put a tec screw through the joins once assembled.

Was looking round Nubco when I was trying to decide between steel frame or alloy frame for my drawers. Didn't like the plastic joiners, but I found nubco's steel joiners: are to suit 25mm RHS, they are simply smaller RHS (16 or 20) welded into different arrangements (ie 3, 4, 5 and 6 way) that slips into a plastic casing.

Scary part was price, starting at $15 each for 3 way, $20 for 4 way etc.

I went for 20mm RHS for my frame and 12mm exterior grade plywood for boxes. Price versus weight

ours are made from craftwood and have survived two trips through the territory/WA and this last trip included the Gibb as well as Cape Leveque. Had 1 draw full of food the other parts/tools/lights etc. Got through without a scratch

I used a old tundle bed from lifeline (twin drawers) $25.00. Cut it down to size braced the corners, screwed and glued, carpeted in and out 5yrs ago now it has served me well on my trips to Cape york,Coober pedy ,Simpson desert,Kakadu still as strong as the day i made it for a total cost of $170.00 all up, the carpet being the most costy:) cheers