Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i am considering doing a shackle reversal and am wondering if it is as simple as cutting and swapping the mounts around?
or is it easier to make new mounts?
any words of advice would be great

My word of advice would be to buy a shackle reversal kit that is already pre made and bolt/weld on.

Try lowrangeoffroad.

Why do you want a shackle reverse Waandy? I built one years ago and they're a very mixed bag IMHO.

It's also a ticket to caster, front driveshaft and tyre fitment problems, which all need addressing. It's a fair bit more work than just the mounts.

Steve.

i was thinking that i would be able to climb obsticles better and wouldnt berry by front end into whatever im trying

just fit bigger tyres and move the diff further forward, that will nearly completly stop the shackles hitting stuff as the tyres will climb b4 shackles make contact

It's actually the opposite Waandy - the axle path is rearwards with a SR so the car drives over the top of the axle before it starts to climb. This can make for awkward behaviour.

General opinion is that an SR is more for high speed work and shackled at the front is better for obstacles.

Steve.

thx guys

Gwagensteve wrote:It's actually the opposite Waandy - the axle path is rearwards with a SR so the car drives over the top of the axle before it starts to climb. This can make for awkward behaviour.

General opinion is that an SR is more for high speed work and shackled at the front is better for obstacles.

Steve.

I disagree, with steep slopes SR is better IMHO cause the car does not tend to unload at the front as easily and roll backwards end over end. This is important in a SWB zook, mine climbs some crazy angles that mates in LWB comp trucks do with 1 inch over stock WB. I'm about to move the rear axle back another 2 or so inches for even more.

It really depends on the terrain you intend to drive and the desired result. Ride quality with SR could be gained by longer leaves which is easier with shackle front setup.

I wasn't commenting on hill climbing ability, only climbing obstacles like coming out of ruts/climbing ledges etc.

Steve.

did one many years ago where we sleaved the chassis for shackle bushes so we didn't gain too much height. the ride was no different ( we kept shackle angles as per original), it understeered, which if you know how shackles on a normal zook cycle when cornering etc makes sense, and driveshaft behaviour was a problem. we actually ended up with more problems and handling quirks and gained nothing. will never do another one as the standard setup can be tweaked for much better results.

i was thinking about this the other day, as if you wanted to stretch the wheelbase (at the front) you could go further, get better approach angle, all with less guard work due to the tyre moving rearward into the wheel well on compression..

Then I thought about the work involved & the level of engineering to go with it( especially with extended wheelbase, longer springs, chassis ext, p/s etc)… then simultaneously thought cut or tube front clip & coils.

I think the calmini SR would be interesting when added to a chassis extension on the front and with custom leaves with the centre pin in the right spot for maximum stuff and approach angle....one day.....

yadda yadda yadda !!!

I have been running SR for years & I swear by it !!
(hilux cant be wrong ??)
better approach angle ,
no shackles digging in when climbing , coming out of ruts

you do get a bit of dive under braking , but with a stiffer shock , it can be rectified !!

rotating the diff covers the steeing geometry ,
& fitting of a hilux tailshaft gives you the longer slip-joint for the wheel travel !!

thats why the re-built beast is getting SR again !!!

PFFFFTTTT.......

moose wrote:
& fitting of a hilux tailshaft gives you the longer slip-joint for the wheel travel !!

Any more info on this?