Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi, ive got gq with a factory diff lock that wont disengage! how does it work?

there are a heap of threads on here man. Have a search around.

Short story

Switch
flips a soleniod.
vacum goes to the acuator.
diff is locked.
Same thing happens in reverse just a different hose now has vacum to disengage.

had the same problem mate, what you have to do if its well and truely stuck on, is go under its running, switch the thing off, go under grab the top hose off, and stick it on where the bottom actuator hose was. it should have vaccume and suck it back.

Take the thing out, there ok, but as soon as they start flogging out with the vaccume not working your fucked.

figjam_1985 wrote:had the same problem mate, what you have to do if its well and truely stuck on, is go under its running, switch the thing off, go under grab the top hose off, and stick it on where the bottom actuator hose was. it should have vaccume and suck it back.

Take the thing out, there ok, but as soon as they start flogging out with the vaccume not working your ..

why take it out?
they are more reliable than an ARB airlocker.

if you break the vac unit, you can always turn it into a cable operated locker.

Jes

jessie928 wrote:

figjam_1985 wrote:had the same problem mate, what you have to do if its well and truely stuck on, is go under its running, switch the thing off, go under grab the top hose off, and stick it on where the bottom actuator hose was. it should have vaccume and suck it back.

Take the thing out, there ok, but as soon as they start flogging out with the vaccume not working your ..

why take it out?
they are more reliable than an ARB airlocker.

if you break the vac unit, you can always turn it into a cable operated locker.

Jes

How?

Im on my 2nd factory locker and it isnt reliable. It wont stay locked. There are no vacuum leaks, Ive removed the solenoids and installed manual valves to direct the vacuum and it still doesnt stay engaged 100% of the time.

I think pressure is better to use then vacum

Are you able to just hook it up to a compressor?

I imagine the diapgragm wouldnt be made to cope with huge pressures but if you regulate it down will it work?

dansedgli wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

figjam_1985 wrote:had the same problem mate, what you have to do if its well and truely stuck on, is go under its running, switch the thing off, go under grab the top hose off, and stick it on where the bottom actuator hose was. it should have vaccume and suck it back.

Take the thing out, there ok, but as soon as they start flogging out with the vaccume not working your ..

why take it out?
they are more reliable than an ARB airlocker.

if you break the vac unit, you can always turn it into a cable operated locker.

Jes

How?

Im on my 2nd factory locker and it isnt reliable. It wont stay locked. There are no vacuum leaks, Ive removed the solenoids and installed manual valves to direct the vacuum and it still doesnt stay engaged 100% of the time.

what you mean how?
you could say " how" is an arb airleaker reliable also.
there is always exceptions to the rule.

you may have a hole in your diaphrams.
there bay still be vacum in the opposiing line.
maybe you have a manifold vacume problem, do you have a vac tank?
alot of maybe's

the factory locker is a very simple locker, like i said, you can remove the vac component and install a cable system also.

jes

jessie928 wrote:

dansedgli wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

figjam_1985 wrote:had the same problem mate, what you have to do if its well and truely stuck on, is go under its running, switch the thing off, go under grab the top hose off, and stick it on where the bottom actuator hose was. it should have vaccume and suck it back.

Take the thing out, there ok, but as soon as they start flogging out with the vaccume not working your ..

why take it out?
they are more reliable than an ARB airlocker.

if you break the vac unit, you can always turn it into a cable operated locker.

Jes

How?

Im on my 2nd factory locker and it isnt reliable. It wont stay locked. There are no vacuum leaks, Ive removed the solenoids and installed manual valves to direct the vacuum and it still doesnt stay engaged 100% of the time.

what you mean how?
you could say " how" is an arb airleaker reliable also.
there is always exceptions to the rule.

you may have a hole in your diaphrams.
there bay still be vacum in the opposiing line.
maybe you have a manifold vacume problem, do you have a vac tank?
alot of maybe's

the factory locker is a very simple locker, like i said, you can remove the vac component and install a cable system also.

jes

I meant how do you setup a cable system.

I did a lot of searching last night, lots of people mention making a cable system or air ram system but no-one seems to have done it or at least documented how they have done it.

I have a vac tank. My car was factory fitted with the locker. I will see what happens when I set it up so there is no vacuum in the opposing line. That seems to be the main reason for it taking ages to engage and disengage.

If it stops my locker disengaging at the the sight of a hill Ill be very happy.

dansedgli wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

dansedgli wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

figjam_1985 wrote:had the same problem mate, what you have to do if its well and truely stuck on, is go under its running, switch the thing off, go under grab the top hose off, and stick it on where the bottom actuator hose was. it should have vaccume and suck it back.

Take the thing out, there ok, but as soon as they start flogging out with the vaccume not working your ..

why take it out?
they are more reliable than an ARB airlocker.

if you break the vac unit, you can always turn it into a cable operated locker.

Jes

How?

Im on my 2nd factory locker and it isnt reliable. It wont stay locked. There are no vacuum leaks, Ive removed the solenoids and installed manual valves to direct the vacuum and it still doesnt stay engaged 100% of the time.

what you mean how?
you could say " how" is an arb airleaker reliable also.
there is always exceptions to the rule.

you may have a hole in your diaphrams.
there bay still be vacum in the opposiing line.
maybe you have a manifold vacume problem, do you have a vac tank?
alot of maybe's

the factory locker is a very simple locker, like i said, you can remove the vac component and install a cable system also.

jes

I meant how do you setup a cable system.

I did a lot of searching last night, lots of people mention making a cable system or air ram system but no-one seems to have done it or at least documented how they have done it.

I have a vac tank. My car was factory fitted with the locker. I will see what happens when I set it up so there is no vacuum in the opposing line. That seems to be the main reason for it taking ages to engage and disengage.

If it stops my locker disengaging at the the sight of a hill Ill be very happy.

i dont have pics of the vacum unit pulled apart, but to it you woudl need to take the top off it so you see the bottom diaphram. Pull the diapham out and you start from there. you need to fab a bracket to hold the cable and then attach the end to the centre of the old diapram.

the cable you use must be a SOLID cable, same as what is used for the throttle/gear control cables on boats.

with your current problem. disconnect both solenoids, find the hose that is connected to the port closet to the diff pumpkin, and attach that directly to the port that comes from the vacume tank. make sure teh other one is not attached to anything.

it should activate nearly instantly, and stay activated ( assuming that the lines to the rear do not leak and are not restricted

Jes

dansedgli wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

dansedgli wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

figjam_1985 wrote:had the same problem mate, what you have to do if its well and truely stuck on, is go under its running, switch the thing off, go under grab the top hose off, and stick it on where the bottom actuator hose was. it should have vaccume and suck it back.

Take the thing out, there ok, but as soon as they start flogging out with the vaccume not working your ..

why take it out?
they are more reliable than an ARB airlocker.

if you break the vac unit, you can always turn it into a cable operated locker.

Jes

How?

Im on my 2nd factory locker and it isnt reliable. It wont stay locked. There are no vacuum leaks, Ive removed the solenoids and installed manual valves to direct the vacuum and it still doesnt stay engaged 100% of the time.

what you mean how?
you could say " how" is an arb airleaker reliable also.
there is always exceptions to the rule.

you may have a hole in your diaphrams.
there bay still be vacum in the opposiing line.
maybe you have a manifold vacume problem, do you have a vac tank?
alot of maybe's

the factory locker is a very simple locker, like i said, you can remove the vac component and install a cable system also.

jes

I meant how do you setup a cable system.

I did a lot of searching last night, lots of people mention making a cable system or air ram system but no-one seems to have done it or at least documented how they have done it.

I have a vac tank. My car was factory fitted with the locker. I will see what happens when I set it up so there is no vacuum in the opposing line. That seems to be the main reason for it taking ages to engage and disengage.

If it stops my locker disengaging at the the sight of a hill Ill be very happy.

i dont have pics of the vacum unit pulled apart, but to it you woudl need to take the top off it so you see the bottom diaphram. Pull the diapham out and you start from there. you need to fab a bracket to hold the cable and then attach the end to the centre of the old diapram.

the cable you use must be a SOLID cable, same as what is used for the throttle/gear control cables on boats.

with your current problem. disconnect both solenoids, find the hose that is connected to the port closet to the diff pumpkin, and attach that directly to the port that comes from the vacume tank. make sure teh other one is not attached to anything.

it should activate nearly instantly, and stay activated ( assuming that the lines to the rear do not leak and are not restricted


Jes

Thanks mate, Ill give it a go.

Ive got a complete spare factory locker with worn gears that Ill pull apart and see if i can make something up to replace the vac setup.

You realise that with the factory wiring the locker disengages at 10kph? So if you want it in at all speeds you need remove the speed sensor part of the locker switch.
The most unreliable part of any Nissan is the electrics so I'd just start from scrtach and run new wires from the switch to the solenoids. Then on is on always!