Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys did a few searchs but nothing came up! im wanting to get the rear end of my gu patrol to flex more! but apart form flatterning out the rear arms which would help a little i want to know what other options are out there maybe a long arm set-up? how well has some people's turned out? and is it creating too much danger of bending lower arms as the are more prone to get hung up on things before resting on stuff with the chassie rails?!

i currently run a 7" lift and rear flexs really well and x-linking front soon hopefully! so i want the rear to flex a bit better to get that little edge over other trucks!

cheers

Ps i just want ideas or others opinions not another "will it be engineered is it legal thread"

i know its a silly question but you have removed your swaybar... right? Aside from that i would say a long arm kit from somewhere like superior engineering, longer shocks and coil drop outs..

yeah all removed mate! anyone running comp trucks with this setup an ddoes it make the lower arms more vonrable

they're made from stronger material and they have a re-enforcing strip welded to the top as well.. If you really wanted to go to a lot of trouble you could weld castor mounts to the rear diff and use drop arm and drop boxes on the back but it would be costly and the gains wouldn't be all that much better. you could also go to an A frame set up but some flexy coils and long arms should be more than enough

Are you suggesting converting the rear to radius arms?

on my comp truck i run rear arms that measure in at 1050mm long, they are home made arms, they are strong and have been in the truck for 4 years, look into the superior long arm kit im sure you wont be dissapointed,

ozy1 wrote:on my comp truck i run rear arms that measure in at 1050mm long, they are home made arms, they are strong and have been in the truck for 4 years, look into the superior long arm kit im sure you wont be dissapointed,

cheers mate! with the long arms do i need to modify my top control arm mounts(flatten the arm more) to keep them paralell? or are they ok to be a slightly out??!

gorilla wrote:Are you suggesting converting the rear to radius arms?

Na not what im wanting to do!!

gorilla wrote:Are you suggesting converting the rear to radius arms?

Not really suggesting.. just saying you could do it.. if you really wanted to you could even put a front diff in the rear then and have rear wheel steering

this truck is running a 4-5" lift and Long-arm rear with superflex front arms. I am still waiting on some new shocks for the front from the USA, so that will help. The long arm rear works awesome, keeps the pinion at a sweet angle all the time, and just plants the tires when you launch it.

here is a cool vid of the last SSS winch challenge. Quite a few guys running the arms. there is some great shots of robbie marshals (AVA gq ute) doing the hill drags. it really shows how well it hooks up! the truck just plants the tires and goes . . . . . (5m07 to 5m30 in)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlUboaXf63M

scores from a recent ramp day.

RTI@20deg: 1203
RTI@30deg: 823
gq Xcab ute: 4" lift, superior flex front arms, superior long arm rear, 10" TD front,18"SAW rear, 37"trepadores

Can the long arm kit be fitted to a swb?

1MadEngineer wrote:this truck is running a 4-5" lift and Long-arm rear with superflex front arms. I am still waiting on some new shocks for the front from the USA, so that will help. The long arm rear works awesome, keeps the pinion at a sweet angle all the time, and just plants the tires when you launch it.

here is a cool vid of the last SSS winch challenge. Quite a few guys running the arms. there is some great shots of robbie marshals (AVA gq ute) doing the hill drags. it really shows how well it hooks up! the truck just plants the tires and goes . . . . . (5m07 to 5m30 in)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlUboaXf63M

scores from a recent ramp day.

RTI@20deg: 1203
RTI@30deg: 823
gq Xcab ute: 4" lift, superior flex front arms, superior long arm rear, 10" TD front,18"SAW rear, 37"trepadores

Thats some pretty awesome flex. Are the rear shocks disconnected? I can't see them in the pictures. I also noticed that the bumpstops look standard. Is this because you have custom shock mounts there is no need to extend them? Is it the same deal with custom mounts up front for the 10" tough dogs? I can't tell by the pics but are the coils tied place?

Sorry for the hijack just interested in the setup, seems to work well.

Cheers
Rohan

thanks 1MadEngineer i think the long arm setup is the way to go? im guessing the mounts weld on and what happens to the original upper arms? do they just stay as they are standard? and also do you just grind off the old lower control arm mounts(chassie ones), because im assuming the long arms will hit on old mounts when tucked up in the guard fully?

cheers!

you gotta cut the old ones off.. just make sure you leave them on until you weld in the new ones or you'll have nothing to measure off

ROGQ wrote: Thats some pretty awesome flex. Are the rear shocks disconnected? I can't see them in the pictures. I also noticed that the bumpstops look standard. Is this because you have custom shock mounts there is no need to extend them? Is it the same deal with custom mounts up front for the 10" tough dogs? I can't tell by the pics but are the coils tied place?

Sorry for the hijack just interested in the setup, seems to work well.

Cheers
Rohan

yeah these were early test days, so we took all the shocks off to see what length shocks we needed to get for it. we were amazed! to say the least. cus we were always told crap like you need an a-frame top to get flex. well we proved that wrong! the top arms are STOCK. and we get sooo much flex it actually uses the factory bumpstops - WTF std trucks dont even hit the bumpstops. We worked out the we needed ~20" travel shocks in the rear, but we had to settle for 18" travel SwayAways. on the front we really needed ~15" travel, but due to the nissan body shape we just through in a set of 10" TDogs for now. I have a new mount system that uses 14"travel shocks just nicely, that i am developing, so as soon as i have a proper NISSAN Spec valving sorted i will let you all know.

as for mounting i think if you buy a kit from superior they give you a jig that you use for setting the new ones up. I like the factory nissan mounts, sure they are expensive, but the cops think its all factory as! cus they are stock mounts. so long as you weld them neat no one would really ever know the difference, apart from a stiff back welded to the arm.

we love them, the fix so much of the bad geometry.... they just plant the tires when climbing and launching, and they get rid of the awefull diff steer, when you drive hard into a corner which wants to jack the rear corner of the truck. Quite a few of the highspeed winch guys run them and they are amazed by the difference. It allows you to drive into an obstacle at angle and offcamber and actually put the power on without the truck trying to push/roll itself over.

hope that helps.

cheers mate that helps heaps,! i thought they looked factory mounts and the definantly are then? one last question! you know how the old mount had the bolt go through the mounts and the arms and then through the chassie!! is the same idea used for new mounts! do i need to drill through the chassie and weld a collare to the inside of rail also??

cheeres

1MadEngineer wrote: yeah these were early test days, so we took all the shocks off to see what length shocks we needed to get for it. we were amazed! to say the least. cus we were always told crap like you need an a-frame top to get flex. well we proved that wrong! the top arms are STOCK. and we get sooo much flex it actually uses the factory bumpstops - WTF std trucks dont even hit the bumpstops. We worked out the we needed ~20" travel shocks in the rear, but we had to settle for 18" travel SwayAways. on the front we really needed ~15" travel, but due to the nissan body shape we just through in a set of 10" TDogs for now. I have a new mount system that uses 14"travel shocks just nicely, that i am developing, so as soon as i have a proper NISSAN Spec valving sorted i will let you all know.

Thanks for the info. The new front mounting system sounds like a goer! Keen to see what you guys come up with.