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Tailshaft Options,also need info on 1350 spicer cardins

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 4:18 pm
by A1
Ok the mav had its first real test on the weekend .............and lets just say it didnt come out the best........the first real main obstacle .........

Went with my own thoughts took the left line 1st gear low popped the front up with a few attempts then stood onit to bring the rear up ......no such luck .......Hypo finger signals me to go again similair line second gear ...just ready to bring the rear up stand on it again AND FARKIN BANG CRASH SPARKYS BANG CRASH my double cardin decides to detonate on its first outin :cry:

Now im unsure of wat path i take to rectify the prob ( went and seen the driveshaft mob this arvo and the only answer i get is obviuosly just to much strain on it for it to handle :?: .......Now the hilux guros run normally a smaller double cardin on there rear with i think more torque goin through em with duals and front rear lockers bigga tyres and motors and have no dramas .......

So my options are
1 / get another made and may well detonate in the same manner ..??
2/ raise the engine drop the tranny to get a betta angle on the uni's and run a stanard shaft .........
3/ get another shaft made up but this time with a commodore rear drive cv joint at the top ........
4/ get another shaft made up with a new hilux cardin joint

5/ sell the farkin truck and build a buggy :twisted:

The driveshaft dude wasnt sure on the bommydore shaft and said he cant see how it would be stronger than wat i was using and that he would have to make up a complete flange and shite to mount it to the tranny...............apparently the cardin i WAS runnin was the largest that there is for this situation and the next one up would be lucky to fit in betwwen the tranny and the diff :? ........

Now i have spoken to a few regardin the bommydore setup but has anyone out there actually done it and do youse have any pics wat do youse think of my best option ..........

Wat are all the guys runnin that do comps in gq shortys ??????anyone?????????


I yeah that first shaft cost me 770 BUCKS and thats another reason im not racin out to get another made yet!!!!! and fark the mav isnt even locked front or REAR yet surley the new mtrs werent bittin that much :?



Please help Dan a1 broken mav

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 4:22 pm
by hottiemonster
i tell u what, i will trade mine for urs and u can turn mine into a buggy instead. :D

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 4:34 pm
by jessie928
somthings amiss on your truck bigtime......
its not cardin strength either..
look at all your angles, marks on the shaft...

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 4:56 pm
by A1
There were no marks on the shaft and angles were fine i thought drove with very little to no vibes ...........Wendle has mentioned there may well be an anti squat drama ( just to clear up im still runnin standard setup rear 5 link) but fark there is a few guys runnin comps and shite with big 8's and standard rear setup and dont seem to have drams or do they ................




Pinion was rotated up to suit double cardin and the lower uni was sittin in an even state (if that makes sense ) .........Hypo did mention he thought the rear seemed to wrap a fair bit but i dont c how it would of been alot (still runnin standard lower link buhes and ome uppers which would deflect i bit but surley not alot ........


:roll: ............ :?


Is there any other paths i could take

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 5:27 pm
by A1
jessie928 wrote:somthings amiss on your truck bigtime......
its not cardin strength either..
look at all your angles, marks on the shaft...




Jessie you tell me the correct setup procedure and ill tell you if its the same as wat i did with setin up the angles so that i can work out wats so amiss bigtime on my rig :roll:



Dan

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:04 pm
by ORSM45
maybe ya just got a lemon double cardin. id get another one. not alot would be stronger, until you get into the 'it wont fit between your transfer and diff' category.

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:09 pm
by M&M Custom Engineerin
What brand cardan joint is it? spicer?

If so, check with spicer to see if it is suitable for the torque it is subjected to.

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:15 pm
by A1
Yeah dude was thinkin the same ..............next thing i did not add earlier is that there is also another shorty gettin round here thats also blown the cardin in the last couple of weeks built by the same place ....

Now the company told me this (i did already know ..it had blown although no that they had done it (built it )......but this dudes cardin had bad gouges on the flange that mounts to the tranny ( it had been bindin up) and this was put down to the failure ......

Where as mine had no marks or gouges to prove this being the case ..........

Im not knockin this companys work as they have done a shite load of these for people and these last 2 are the only dramas ??? and its cardin failure not the attachment of the cardin joint ...



:?



Duz getdirty still get on here casue im sure he changed back to standard tail due to bindin probs

Dan

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:22 pm
by A1
Mick or Matt??

There is no true branding on the cardin otha than a few numbers on the flange that mounts to the tranny these are 601-2 on 1 side and a few symbols of some sort then 57 on the otha side , the end caps pn the uni,s are stamped made in usa aswell thats it.......


duz that mean anything to any one



????????

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:29 pm
by M&M Custom Engineerin
its mick.

Ask the driveshaft place if it is a spicer joint. Have you taken it to them to check it out? If there are no signs of binding or the the shaft hitting something to cause the failure they should be able to sort out something with their supplier as it may be just a dodgy joint.

Have the ears on the joint broken or the uni itself broken? How do the end caps compare in size to the standard uni?

I would just throw in a hilux cardan joint, there are proven. Just check it wont bind though.

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:39 pm
by professor
dobbin engineering makes up a 100 series cv joint and a new heat treated drive shaft ideal for off road rig www.dobbinengineering.com/
the cv is 4.88 or 4.11 time less likly to blow hellish strong

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:43 pm
by A1
M&M Custom Engineering wrote:its mick.

Ask the driveshaft place if it is a spicer joint. Have you taken it to them to check it out? If there are no signs of binding or the the shaft hitting something to cause the failure they should be able to sort out something with their supplier as it may be just a dodgy joint.

Have the ears on the joint broken or the uni itself broken? How do the end caps compare in size to the standard uni?

I would just throw in a hilux cardan joint, there are proven. Just check it wont bind though.


Yep took it to the place this arvo and all they said was that it was obviuosly under more stress than wat it can handle ......although he did say he will send it up there supplier and get it checked out n c (but really if it was farked they would have to be a pretty genuine bloke to turn around and say sorry it was farked heres another 500 dollar or so (i have no idea wat there worth ) cardin please shop with us again ;) ..

The company has said that they will look after me wen i come back but its still gunna hurt the wallet :roll:


the ears have broken aswell as the uni wat went first who knows although part of it flung out and tore a hole in a dudes trackys (lucky it missed his leg)..........

The end caps on the cardin are roughly 28mm the standard uni on the bottom is bout 31.5 or so....also the cardin unis has 293 stamped on em


Do you have any info on wats needed to fit a lux one in also i think the lux 1's actually have alot more movement in them than the 1 i have now (had)??


Thanx

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:48 pm
by A1
professor wrote:dobbin engineering makes up a 100 series cv joint and a new heat treated drive shaft ideal for off road rig www.dobbinengineering.com/
the cv is 4.88 or 4.11 time less likly to blow hellish strong


cheers


duz any one know if that cardin joint in the is a lux or not

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 7:24 pm
by hypo
u say that the only work done in the rear is the pinions angle being corrected, now 2 do this u just lengthened the toip links and didnt change the bottom, now wood this make the suspension react differently ?? make it rap like i thought that it may have ??

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 7:27 pm
by Cheezy4x4
I have only ever run a standard SWB shaft and still do. I do big lifts every week and still only use a standard shaft. 340kw at the wheels 800nm of torque, twin cases and 42's and never broken one, they must be strong. ;)

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 7:36 pm
by RUFF
Dont use the commodore CV! I have seen way to many Big HP Commodores spit these out on the street. And this was while frying tyres not tracking up.

Im running hilux DC joints front and rear and have never had a problem. And i think we can all seriously say my rig has been given a harder time than your Mav. These are also second hand wrecker specials on unbalanced shafts that i have made myself. I get no vibrations in 2WD on road.

Im saying either you had a dodgy DC joint or you have a set up problem.

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 8:07 pm
by hypo
wem u say setup prob, can u elaborate ??

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 8:22 pm
by RUFF
hypolux wrote:wem u say setup prob, can u elaborate ??


Suspension?
Shaft Angles?
Wrong DC joint for the aplication?

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 8:27 pm
by bazooked
were they a spicer u joint? because they can take more angle than the elcheapo usa joints, there r other ujs that arent spicer aswell. was the shaft greased? silly question but its gotta be asked , and to rip the ears of the flanges, sumthin had to of siezed or binded.....ps nissan dc are quite a bit larger than luxes and take alot more punishment..

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 9:44 pm
by Maggot4x4
When I saw the size of the Uni's i couldn't believe how small they were.

I think you would be much better off cutting down a big shaft from an effie or chev with a big uni that can handle the angle.

My 2c

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 10:36 pm
by Damo
A1MAV wrote:
the ears have broken aswell as the uni wat went first who knows although part of it flung out and tore a hole in a dudes trackys (lucky it missed his leg)..........



BWAAAAAHAHAHAHAHA

Ripped his trackys

Man that is the funniest shit eva! :D

Can see him standin there with thongs, the trackys and a wife beater, in ciggy-hangin-outta-the-mouth disbeleif!!!!

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 5:21 am
by redzook
Damo wrote:
A1MAV wrote:
the ears have broken aswell as the uni wat went first who knows although part of it flung out and tore a hole in a dudes trackys (lucky it missed his leg)..........

i have just won a high angle drive line off pirate that u can have




u r generous DAMO
:D :D :finger:


my toyota d/c shaft has held up well on the street so far :roll:
is that helps ;)


NOTE: he did not offer his high angle shaft

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 7:37 am
by Damo
redzook wrote:
Damo wrote:
A1MAV wrote:
the ears have broken aswell as the uni wat went first who knows although part of it flung out and tore a hole in a dudes trackys (lucky it missed his leg)..........

i have just won a high angle drive line off pirate that u can have




u r generous DAMO
:D :D :finger:


my toyota d/c shaft has held up well on the street so far :roll:
is that helps ;)


NOTE: he did not offer his high angle shaft


I got plans for it already sorry, it's destined for a lowrider Lada :finger:

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 8:24 am
by A1
hypolux wrote:u say that the only work done in the rear is the pinions angle being corrected, now 2 do this u just lengthened the toip links and didnt change the bottom, now wood this make the suspension react differently ?? make it rap like i thought that it may have ??




Yep thats correct only lengthen the uppers and fitted ome bushes to these new links...........


i cant see how it would react that much different other than the pinion sittin up higher than factory..... :?

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 8:29 am
by A1
RUFF wrote:Dont use the commodore CV! I have seen way to many Big HP Commodores spit these out on the street. And this was while frying tyres not tracking up.

Im running hilux DC joints front and rear and have never had a problem. And i think we can all seriously say my rig has been given a harder time than your Mav. These are also second hand wrecker specials on unbalanced shafts that i have made myself. I get no vibrations in 2WD on road.

Im saying either you had a dodgy DC joint or you have a set up problem.


Forshore ruff i agree your rigs up there get a given a farkin hard time compared to my rig ......Thanx for the advice on the commy cv .......

Now in your opinion , do you think a hilux DC will hold up in my application..???? ..........


the company has used the same DC in other shortys with no probs ???

Mayb a dodgy cardin .....but for the price n i get another and it duz the same its gunna start to hurt :roll: dollars!!


Dan

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 8:33 am
by A1
bazooked wrote:were they a spicer u joint? because they can take more angle than the elcheapo usa joints, there r other ujs that arent spicer aswell. was the shaft greased? silly question but its gotta be asked , and to rip the ears of the flanges, sumthin had to of siezed or binded.....ps nissan dc are quite a bit larger than luxes and take alot more punishment..




Not sure on brand will check 2day and shaft was greased it was its first real outin although it had been in the truck for a few months........


N yeah i know bout the size differences between the 2 but the hilux 1's still seem to hold up in rear tail shaft ,,reasonable Hp locked big tyred setups and hold up as Ruff metioned......



Cheers

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 8:35 am
by A1
has anyone ever seen a hilux DC let go and if so please explain the circumstances and mods on the rig involved..... how it let go wat they were tryin to drive n shite.......




thanx

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 8:56 am
by Wendle
i've been thinking about this since you rang, and it HAS to be a suspect joint.
at first I thought mwyabe it was jacking up big time under torque and binding up the fornt half of the joint against the flange, but you said it had no marks on the flange? and mine (which I am assuming is the same joint) has big marks on the flange from having the truck sitting on its belly with the back tyres hanging in the air spinning pretty hard.

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:15 am
by Maggot4x4
Wendle wrote:i've been thinking about this since you rang, and it HAS to be a suspect joint.
at first I thought mwyabe it was jacking up big time under torque and binding up the fornt half of the joint against the flange, but you said it had no marks on the flange? and mine (which I am assuming is the same joint) has big marks on the flange from having the truck sitting on its belly with the back tyres hanging in the air spinning pretty hard.


I agree, I saw it first hand, there had to be a problem with the casting.

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 11:18 am
by jessie928
how long is a piece of string?
if your trashing the "biggest uni you could get" on your fisrt real outing there is a problem somewhere...., i didnt build your rig, how should i know the best way to set it up...

i know someone that snapped 3 pinions and twisted 3 shafts before he conceeded he had an axle wrap problem....

so by all means put in another DC before adressing the problem, after all, its only money :):)