Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'day all,

On the weekend just gon I sliped off some packed rocks and bottomed out on a rock ledge. This caused me to bend my lower control arm, on the passenger side, right up to the chasis and the fact we didn't know it happened caused the axel to bend it a little more.

We got out and removed the lower control arm and winched the GQ to some flat ground to inspect for further damage. The control arms on the other side seemed fin, the passenger upper arm seemed fine, the tailshaft had put a little dint in the diff yolk, but was otherwise fine, and the panhard did not appear to be twisted at all. We breathed deeply considering our selves lucky after recently hearing a few horror stories.

Next day chucked in a heavy duty control arm (same length as standard by measurement) and found that it was about 15mm too long. So, we took the upper control arm off and got the lower one in. Then, the upper was too short by about 15mm. So, it would appear that we are just transfering the problem.

Does anyone have any useful suggeestions with regard to getting the upper control arm in? Or, do you think we have bent the axel housing slightly (it drove with no undue pulling to either side and made no extra whining)?

Also, upon inspection when returning home, we realised the diff seal had been comprimised and was now leaking.

Cheers,
GFN

[color=red]Comments on Fixing Problem[/color] wrote:Right, so I took the advice from the blokes who responded and it turned out that by taking the shocks off and jacking the passenger wheel off the ground (hand brake on), I could turn the wheel and get the upper control arm in. On a closer inspection, it appears my shocks are slightly bent. I put them on the same way they came off and tested the flex; absolutely no impact on flex and no issues with shock compression - looks like I escaped lightly.

One quick question: If I put stengthened lower control arms on, how necessary is it to put strengthened upper control arms on? I ask as I am tight on funds and want to do the lowers (they are the most vulnerable) and my panhards.

Cheers again,
GFN

Should be able to just roll the wheel back. That should rotate the the pinion down, pushing the mounting points further away.
Coils will be trying to rotate the pinion up. I would also be checking your shocks havent bent the shaft. This want have any effect on not getting the trailing arm on. But when I broke my trailing arm, I bent both shock shafts.

as above i did same one,
you just need to rotate the diff a litle to get it to fit
remember when it bent it would have moved the bottom of the diff forward with bottom one in if you have room get under car with bolt get some one to slow push car foward with hand brake on dif will roll over a bit stick bolt threw top same if bottom out just rock car back if not work i used a ratchit strap from trailer hooked it on bottm of diif and to chassi u get the idea cheers tim

I laid down and pushed the wheel back with my foot. That worked for one side. The other side was a different story. Had to get someone to help.

i used a long snap-on break bar to move diff to get it in its a pain tho

I used a tirfor hooked up to another car to move the rear diff back for my +10mm arms. From there I used a highlift jack on the tow bar to line up the holes. Easy done!

just take out the springs, only 2 nuts on the shocks and then there out and your life is a heap easier. just put stands under the chassis and take the wheels off and move the diff with a trolley jack

Cheers for the help guys. I will give it a bash tomorrow afternoon. Sorry if it is a bit of a noob question, but I have only just come across to nissan from a leaf sprung 60 series - I know leaves and that is all!

GFN