Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Pics and details on what and how you have done it please.
Thanks.
Oh and yeah I could have searched but I didn't, so there

Here you go...

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic148 ... ight=coils

Check-out brad 93hilux post seems to keep it all Toyota.

Thinking myself of going coils on rear as by the time you've got engineering for longer leaf's (moving mounts instead of longer shackles etc,etc !) you might just as well have stuck coils in there IMO...

Guts wrote:Pics and details on what and how you have done it please.
Thanks.
Oh and yeah I could have searched but I didn't, so there

i finally get to say:

SEARCH NOOB!



i have seen it done - i think i read it on the intermernet

I am in the process of doing this as we speak to a customers car. it is getting a wt diff conversion, drop away coils, a-frame rear and long lowers.. no pics yet though sorry.im using mostly factory mounts from a coiled 4 runner. after mud bulls im using factory bundera front for the front conversion.

ill grab a few if you like.

surf diff converted to full floater, dual triangulated four link, coil dropouts, Pathfinder/Terrano 40mm lift OME coils (#OME920) Aceytl spherical ball joint to guide coil dropout rod.

NoName wrote:Here you go...

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic148 ... ight=coils

Check-out brad 93hilux post seems to keep it all Toyota.

Thinking myself of going coils on rear as by the time you've got engineering for longer leaf's (moving mounts instead of longer shackles etc,etc !) you might just as well have stuck coils in there IMO...

Yeah Brad bought the chassis off the Surf I was wrecking, made it easy. I'd suggest for yours though Guts, use 80 series arms on the runner housing (good width too.) Will ride better and get less rear steer.

Still works out cheap as. 80 series coils fit in the runner rear too, giving more options.

IF I do this it will NOT be done with a hilux rear end.
The coils will NOT be mounted inside the rails.
The coils will not be floating.

I'll be using 60 or 80 rear end and the coils will sit under the rails.

Oh and I allready have the ok off the wife, and thats to coil it front and rear

Guts wrote: Oh and I allready have the ok off the wife, and thats to coil it front and rear

sweet azz

bubs wrote:

Guts wrote: Oh and I allready have the ok off the wife, and thats to coil it front and rear

sweet ass

Just told her it will make it less likely to roll
See even when things go bad you can make good things come of it

i found the easiest way, was to just buy a surf...

80 diffs & arms
Strip the wifes 4b
You know they work well
Cheers Dan

coil overs all round, guts you know you want to

rob

75 cruser wrote:coil overs all round, guts you know you want to

rob

Yep Kings all round
Only 1 problem
Bank account

So I think I'll just coil the rear end.
Then later on coil over the front.

the time you add it all up, minius your own time thier isnt much cost differance, and heap less work in putting the coilovers in, compared to cutting all those brackets off the old chassie etc

rear chassie cut $500.00
springs $200.00
shocks $500.00

total $1200.00

how much are 2 coilovers straight in to the rear

rob

Who said anything about a $500 dollar chassi?
about $1200+ each for kings. (would have to double check that price)
I wouldn't touch anything else.

Oh and springs will more then likely be 2nd hand and shocks will not be $500.

Here's one I did a few years ago. Dual triangulated rear with coil springs, BBC Shocks and a 9" rear end. Front triangulated, coil spring, BBC Shocks and a Dana 60. The front springs are captured and the rears have about 6" of slip before they are captured. I have some pictures from under the truck of the links and mounting points I will try and find.

Jason

SWEET PICS!! - MORE PLEASE

here is an easy way to get one that ACTUALLY works well!


you saw it in action on saturday night!

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1490570.php#1490570

hey 1 mad, what sorta system has he got on his 3rz in that thing? noticed it sounded nicer than mine on saturday night thats all... keen to get mine sounding sweet. Cheers.

sorry for the hijack

Just to jog your memory on what Cheezy did to mine with the 80 series diff in the rear

Lux_89 wrote:hey 1 mad, what sorta system has he got on his 3rz in that thing? noticed it sounded nicer than mine on saturday night thats all... keen to get mine sounding sweet. Cheers.

2.5" mandrel system with a single 40series-delta flow FLOWMASTER muffler.
expensive but worth every cent, gives a huge increase in torque right through the rev range. would never use anything else!

Guts wrote:I'll be using 60 or 80 rear end and the coils will sit under the rails.

Why will the coils be sitting under the rails? You will limit the spring length you can run and/or increase the ride height significantly for the same travel. Especially if you are running captured coils.

Ben

Trusa wrote:

Guts wrote:I'll be using 60 or 80 rear end and the coils will sit under the rails.

Why will the coils be sitting under the rails? You will limit the spring length you can run and/or increase the ride height significantly for the same travel. Especially if you are running captured coils.

Ben

I dont really agrea.





The coils dont need to be mounted on top of the axle tubes. Mounting the coils inboard of the rails only makes it more unstable. The pics above were taken straight after it was built. The coil mounts were adjustable and ended up all the way up against the rail. Height ended up being approx 500mm to the base of the frame rails on 38" TSLs.

Trusa wrote:

Guts wrote:I'll be using 60 or 80 rear end and the coils will sit under the rails.

Why will the coils be sitting under the rails?

Because mounted inside the frame rails they are too close together and it makes the arse end to loose and unstable.

RUFF wrote:

Trusa wrote:

Guts wrote:I'll be using 60 or 80 rear end and the coils will sit under the rails.

Why will the coils be sitting under the rails? You will limit the spring length you can run and/or increase the ride height significantly for the same travel. Especially if you are running captured coils.

Ben

I dont really agrea.





The coils dont need to be mounted on top of the axle tubes. Mounting the coils inboard of the rails only makes it more unstable. The pics above were taken straight after it was built. The coil mounts were adjustable and ended up all the way up against the rail. Height ended up being approx 500mm to the base of the frame rails on 38" TSLs.

hey Tony, is that a rover rear ball joint at the diff end of "A" frame?

what material did you use for the arms of the "A" frame?

cheers, serg

also dosn't look like much vertical seperation at the axle end.... was this to keep anti sqaut low???

Serg

Yes Range rover ball joint and salisbury bolt on mount below it. Im pretty sure it was 32NB for the uppers and the lowers were 25NB sleaved with 32NB.





Here is a pic that shows the seperation better

If i were to do it again i would just go with a 4link as i have seen to many ball joints fail since building that.

RUFF wrote:If i were to do it again i would just go with a 4link as i have seen to many ball joints fail since building that.

in your mind, what is causing the ball joints to fail?

sounds like your lowers were stronger than the upper "A" frame, i'm curious to why rover make there "A" arms so strong compared to there cheese stick trailing arms???

Serg