Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi there,

I am looking for some info and specs on the 98-05 Grand Vitara (the ones with a transfer and chassis) which I am thinking of buying. Been looking in the bible and plenty of searches but most of the info is on the older Vitaras and the web is mainly has the latest models. Perhaps this thread could be added to the bible if appropriate.

Could someone help me with info or links on the following:

What are the model numbers mean? e.g. JB, JLX, S2, S3, S4, Limited....

I have a choice of 2.0L 4, 2.0L V6, 2.5L V6, 2.7L V6...looking for advice.

Is it worth spending more for the highest-spec ones - i.e. is it mainly trim levels, which dont mean much to me, or worth it for ABS, etc.

The XL-7 - worth considering? - I think they look uglier and dont think I need the extra room but I am thinking of doing some touring (2 people only)

I will be looking at doing some mods like a little lift, tyres, antennas - so I would like to know if any particular model is wrong for this.

Sorry if I havent looked hard enough

Hi
the 98 - 05 GV is a great car you will enjoy

the 2L is to small for the 5 door so you are best getting a 2.5L

The xl7 is a good Car and the 2.7L does get up and go, if you are touring it would be the go

the Gv only realy changed in 03 and i think for the better, it has a better dash and trim than the previous years, but if you are willing to put up with the older dash and trim you can get a cheap buy

in 2000 - 2001 Gvs came with leather and some with the sunroof too, you can spot them buy the mags with gold trim and gold badges. A black leather Gv is pretty hot!!

The GV can swap its internal diffs with vitara's so you can have diff locks, but not the XL7

Only auto's after 03 came with steel front diff housings which is a must as the alloy ones just need a little pressure and bang!!

I want to trade my GV for an XL7 but i dont like the newer nose so im after a April 03 XL7 with the new dash but the old head lights, about september they came out with the new nose.

i also think you have a better ride when you lift an XL7 due to its length


Good luck with the search

think also the 2.7 has a few lesser engine related issues as they redesigned some parts in the front of the engine.

beware on service history on the 2.5 in regards to the timing chain tensioner and oil pump area. bout all i have heard of to watch out for.

Thanks guys.

I have seen an '05 2.7 GV (not XL-7) that looks ideal but its a little more $ than I was thinking...

So it would have the stronger diffs & better engine. (edit: oops, its a manual so it must have the weaker diffs)

I want to set one up like the red one - impressive.

all manuals have steel diffs and up too 05 only the XL7 has a 2.7L.

Bummer. I phoned the guy who was advertising the GV as a 2.7L (which he was sure it was) and he had a look at the compliance plate and it said "H25A" - spot on Fordy

If you're after an auto then the updated XL-7's (late 03->) came with a revised 5 speed auto. It's an excellent transmission - and that's from someone who hates autos.....

Prior to that they've all got four speed autos. The normal GV's didn't get the 5 speed auto until the new shape JB arrived.

The 2.7l V6 is a bit "rough around the edges" and not very refined in the upper rev range, but it certainly can move an XL-7 off the line if you floor it. I've surprised quite a few V6 Commodore drivers off the lights up to 80km/h plus I'm level pegging them.

The standard shocks and tyres are rubbish on the XL-7's, so budget on replacing the shocks even on a low km example if they haven't been done already. There's a huge handling improvement.

Right, I have a good idea of what to look for now.

Some more questions...

Do the GV's have proper recovery points?

Is there anywhere underneath that should get extra protection? - bash plates.

I have seen the TJM front bars but are there any others available? Perhaps nudge bars should be considered given the extra weight of a full bull bar? All the bars I have seen seem to reduce the entry angle.

Can the V6's be re-chipped? Are there any performance mods which are worth it?

How do the front hubs work/engage and would the fitment of manual hubs be recommended, as per some other fourbies?

thanks

grazza wrote:Right, I have a good idea of what to look for now.

Some more questions...

Do the GV's have proper recovery points?

I have got a decent hook under the front of my 2004 XL-7 (all my responses will be based on my XL-7, but should be applicable for other GV's) but haven't investigated if it is suitable for recovering from. Worst case you should be able to bolt some aftermarket ones to the chassis rails.

grazza wrote: Is there anywhere underneath that should get extra protection? - bash plates.

YES! Mine has stuff all protection underneath- it's only got a plastic tray under the engine. A waste of time on an "off road" vehicle.... There is some protection (steel) under the fuel tank but that's about it.

grazza wrote: I have seen the TJM front bars but are there any others available? Perhaps nudge bars should be considered given the extra weight of a full bull bar? All the bars I have seen seem to reduce the entry angle.

East Coast Bullbars make a very nice replacement bar for the late model XL-7's which dramatically improves the approach angle and provides more protection underneath at the front. See the previous pics Fordy posted.

grazza wrote: Can the V6's be re-chipped? Are there any performance mods which are worth it?

Extractors seem to be non existant, but I reckon a less restrictive exhaust would show improvements. I'm sure they could be reflashed but it's a matter of finding someone who knows what they're doing.

grazza wrote: How do the front hubs work/engage and would the fitment of manual hubs be recommended, as per some other fourbies?

The stocks hubs are permanently locked and the front driveshafts rotate in 2WD. The actual locking for engaging 4WD is done within the front diff via a small air compressor (or vacuum pump?) in behind the front bumper. So you can engage 4wd "on the fly". Manual hubs can be retrofitted - off earlier Vitara's or Sierras, or bought aftermarket to suit the same vehicles.

the front really has nothing to recover off and its best to fit a tow bar and use a recovery hitch

Ecb do the best bars or nudge bars.

a front bash plate is a good idea and the cross member holding the transfer case is a big target and easy to get hung up on, the best way to see if the gv you are looking at has been off road is dents in the exhuast and a bent forward lip on the transfer case cross member

Manual hubs are a good idea but i think you only need them if you are fitting a big lift, only then does the seals struggle

For more power across the board its more air in and out, snorkel, air filter, extractors if you can find them but i have been told the factory ones are good and a good sports exhaust and you will notice the difference but only in a manual, auto you will not notice it as much.

its best to find ones with towbars and bull bars fitted as the parts are not in big demand as other makes so a tow bar is between $540 - $620 fitted and the bars are big$$$

Found this great looking GV, just the colour I like too:



It has a Calmini 2.5" lift plus body lift.
Is that something I can buy and get fitted in Brisbane? Can I even do it (legal)...

The calmini lift replaces the trailing arms and the front ifs arms too
( forgot name! ) and bodylifts are only for non airbag GVs so you will have to look around.

cant mention years because evry time i bring up the airbag thib the thread stops!

you can buy this stuff and get fitted just not legal

you can still lift a GV 3inches and more with out calmini

flex on just a 50mm lift

If you think you may want to fit lower transfer case gears then don't get a manual V6 as they won't fit.

The facelift GV also got a slight increase in power too.

fordy1 wrote:

The calmini lift replaces the trailing arms and the front ifs arms too
( forgot name! ) and bodylifts are only for non airbag GVs so you will have to look around.

cant mention years because evry time i bring up the airbag thib the thread stops!

you can buy this stuff and get fitted just not legal

you can still lift a GV 3inches and more with out calmini

You can put a body lift on the GV even though it has airbags. It has to do with the airbag sensors being G sensors (acceleromaters) as oppossed to crush cans. BBM's GV has 2" (or 3") body lifts in it.

try that in Qld

TheOtherLeft wrote:You can put a body lift on the GV even though it has airbags. It has to do with the airbag sensors being G sensors (acceleromaters) as oppossed to crush cans. BBM's GV has 2" (or 3") body lifts in it.

So which can you do the lift with? I'm almost certain my 2004 Xl-7 has some sort of frangible switches behind the bumper bar.... The yellow wiring heading down there and schematics I've seen suggest that is the case.

murcod wrote:

TheOtherLeft wrote:You can put a body lift on the GV even though it has airbags. It has to do with the airbag sensors being G sensors (acceleromaters) as oppossed to crush cans. BBM's GV has 2" (or 3") body lifts in it.

So which can you do the lift with? I'm almost certain my 2004 Xl-7 has some sort of frangible switches behind the bumper bar.... The yellow wiring heading down there and schematics I've seen suggest that is the case.

Do you mean yellow conduit? That's airbag wiring. That's bad to play with? I didn't know airbag sensors were that far forward. I always thought sensors were in the engine bay, ie behind the headlights etc.

Are you sure it isn't the wiring to the pneumatic pump for the front diff?

TheOtherLeft wrote:

murcod wrote:

TheOtherLeft wrote:You can put a body lift on the GV even though it has airbags. It has to do with the airbag sensors being G sensors (acceleromaters) as oppossed to crush cans. BBM's GV has 2" (or 3") body lifts in it.

So which can you do the lift with? I'm almost certain my 2004 Xl-7 has some sort of frangible switches behind the bumper bar.... The yellow wiring heading down there and schematics I've seen suggest that is the case.

Do you mean yellow conduit? That's airbag wiring. That's bad to play with? I didn't know airbag sensors were that far forward. I always thought sensors were in the engine bay, ie behind the headlights etc.

Are you sure it isn't the wiring to the pneumatic pump for the front diff?

No it's yellow taped up conduit - so airbag wiring and it's in behind the front bumper area. If they used acclerometers that shouldn't be there ; there'd just be a module under the centre console bolted to the trans tunnel (or somewhere similar) like I've had in other airbag equipped cars.

murcod wrote:

TheOtherLeft wrote:

murcod wrote:

TheOtherLeft wrote:You can put a body lift on the GV even though it has airbags. It has to do with the airbag sensors being G sensors (acceleromaters) as oppossed to crush cans. BBM's GV has 2" (or 3") body lifts in it.

So which can you do the lift with? I'm almost certain my 2004 Xl-7 has some sort of frangible switches behind the bumper bar.... The yellow wiring heading down there and schematics I've seen suggest that is the case.

Do you mean yellow conduit? That's airbag wiring. That's bad to play with? I didn't know airbag sensors were that far forward. I always thought sensors were in the engine bay, ie behind the headlights etc.

Are you sure it isn't the wiring to the pneumatic pump for the front diff?

No it's yellow taped up conduit - so airbag wiring and it's in behind the front bumper area. If they used acclerometers that shouldn't be there ; there'd just be a module under the centre console bolted to the trans tunnel (or somewhere similar) like I've had in other airbag equipped cars.

Well I'm now thoroughly confused. So GVs must use crush cans to set off the airbags then????

I've just double checked in the XL-7 and GV factory workshop manuals I've got.

The schematic shows a "Forward Sensor left" and "Forward Sensor right" - the way they are drawn it shows an open ciruit switch that is bypassed by a resistor. So they'd be your "crash cans" / frangible switches with inbult resistors as a system check that the they're electrically connected / ok.

It was hard to find their location, but one pic points to either side of the bonnet catch under the radiator support panel?

Fairly conclusive I'd say? Probably a lot safer system to use in an offroad vehicle over an accelerometer (less likely to false trigger from a hard off road use?)

grazza wrote:Found this great looking GV, just the colour I like too:



It has a Calmini 2.5" lift plus body lift.
Is that something I can buy and get fitted in Brisbane? Can I even do it (legal)...

Thats my old car, took me a while and some hits and misses to get it like that.

The Calmini only really replaces the front arms and not the rear trailing arms, you can only get the 2.5" kit.

Trying to lift a GV more that 2.5" in the suspension is a bit fruitless, the rack and peanut steering and CV angles make it hard.

As for a body lift anything bigger than 1" was going to screw with the front and rear bars to much, and I wouldn't do it.

The GV has one accelerometer and it is bolted to the front bar support beam, the beam is attached to the chassis but the bar is connected to the body, if you remove the support bar to get clearance when doing a bigger body lift, there is nothing to bolt the accelerometer to.

Just some small traps.

Hi Toecutta, can you tell me what size tyres were under the GV and whether that size would work under a max 50mm lift with no body lift?

I have heard from a mechanic that beyond 30mm they suffer pretty bad bump steer - did you notice this?

Any other general "gotcha's" would be great - just curious if you sold the GV due to any inherent problems with them

Bought a 2005 GV on Friday...low km, manual. Very happy with it, took it camping this weekend, nothing more exciting than dusty forest tracks and it handled it very well, smooth, quick and easy.

Now to start the mods...lift, tyres, snorkel, etc...

Its a real "sea change" from the big Patrol - half the fun will be adapting the camping style/gear to the smaller vehicle but I am enjoying the challenge.

Thanks for all your help

So it's a "normal" GV - not an XL-7? There's not a lot of space in the back of them if it's the former!

Get yourself some roof racks and a luggage pod and that will help out with hauling more gear.

Its just a GV, not an XL7. I am impressed with the width (only 100mm less than the Patrol) but is a lot shorter. Nice to be a tonne lighter though...

I am thinking of getting one of these:

http://www.mmimports.com.au/ (click on roof top tent)



...because much of the space I am using up is my touring tent and bedding.

grazza wrote: I am thinking of getting one of these:

http://www.mmimports.com.au/ (click on roof top tent)



...because much of the space I am using up is my touring tent and bedding.

Theses are well wroth while - its my GV in the pic further up:



With 2 of us, we did 3 weeks down from brisbane, round Tassie and back up with no space problems - as you say, getting the tent and bedding out of the car frees up a lot of space! Often do a weekend away with 4 people to Straddie and can just squeeze everything in....
Did notice a big difference in fuel consumption though - especially with a big headwind

Hi all.
Great thread for us GV owners... A good bit of information for all!

Suzuki Mods- Any chance of putting this in the bible?

grazza- Pretty sure the biggest tyres you can get comfortably without body lift is 225/70/16. That's what I ended up getting.
I got an OME 50mm lift through ARB locally for around $1200 fitted.
If you haven't already, ask ...here... too, there is some good stuff about GV's.

murcod- there's a dark colored GV getting around my neck of the woods (inner south Adelaide) that is lifted and snorkeled... any idea if they're on here or Auszookers?

Any other GV'ers- do you find that you're lacking in grunt when towing? If so, any suggestions for more grunt? I'd like to know how much difference a bigger/better flowing exhaust would make for bottom end. Or would it just give it more up top?

Cheers (and sorry if I've hijacked this thread)

Pete

I went to 225/75-16's - I think they would just fit without a lift, although I haven't tried it....they do rub slightly on the inner guards at the front, and also I had to trim the plastic edge round the back door moulding as it was touching there too when flexed up. This is with a 30mm lift.
Best thing was the extra 25mm of ride height gained when fitting them

In the Vitara bible.

Layto....