Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just after some advice in how people have drilled and tapped the shaft on a high mount to remove the circlip that holds the brake on.

I know people will say use a drill. I have had it in a lathe and it didnt scratch it tried a drill real slow with heaps of cutting compund still no luck.

I have searched before people say go down that path with no luck, the bloody things harder than a cats head.

Any help would be apreciated.

Trump

SG Leslie + sons in Melbourne.
Ask for Mal.

We used a drill bit in a cordless drill, while lying on the ground under a very muddy GU ute with a mid-mount Himount winch at last yrs OBC.
I will ask Juzza if it was any fancy drill bit.

turps wrote:We used a drill bit in a cordless drill, while lying on the ground under a very muddy GU ute with a mid-mount Himount winch at last yrs OBC.
I will ask Juzza if it was any fancy drill bit.

no way.............

use an oxy torch and anneal the end of the shaft only, done heap this way. Use a CoHSS drill bit also.

We used a drill bit in a cordless drill, while lying on the ground under a very muddy GU ute with a mid-mount Himount winch at last yrs OBC.
I will ask Juzza if it was any fancy drill bit.

This wold work on the old brake shafts.

Thanks guys for the responsers will heating the end of the shaft weaken it.

I was thinking of this but was a little unsure of the effect this would have on the shaft in the long run. I would asume that sinse the brake its self dosent come into contact with the end it should be OK?????

i searched for hours on this.. without any luck..

the solution is pretty easy.

grind about 10 thou (1/4mm) off the end of the shaft this will go past the case hardening, then get a masonry drill bit and regrind the tip so it is sharp, you can buy sharp masonry TCT bits for drilling bricks without a hammer drill but i couldn't find them.

use a drill press or lathe, low speed lots of pressure, then tap, getting the tap to bite is a bit of a headache, use a good quality tap! once it gets started it will tap fine.

giantracing wrote:

turps wrote:We used a drill bit in a cordless drill, while lying on the ground under a very muddy GU ute with a mid-mount Himount winch at last yrs OBC.
I will ask Juzza if it was any fancy drill bit.

no way.............

Whoops, you are right. I was thinking of another bit. I read it as the free spool thingo.

you can drill through the freespool lever (to pin it) with a 3.5-4mm normal HSS drill bit, that shaft is not hardened.

turps wrote:

giantracing wrote:

turps wrote:We used a drill bit in a cordless drill, while lying on the ground under a very muddy GU ute with a mid-mount Himount winch at last yrs OBC.
I will ask Juzza if it was any fancy drill bit.

no way.............

Whoops, you are right. I was thinking of another bit. I read it as the free spool thingo.

thought so ........... there is no way any one can do that....

Thanks guys for the response i will try the grinding trick i had through about that or heating with OXY but was a little unsure if this would be the way to go.

Got stuck into this last night ground a bit of the face and sharpen up a masonry bit and it worked a treat. I must have sharpend the drill about 20 times to get therough the hard facing but once through that the material wasnt that hard. Took about 1 1/2 hours but got it all finished. Tapping the tread was a pain but once tap started to cut it was easy.

Thanks Big Cam for that tip would have never entered my mind to yse a masonry drill. will keep that in the memory thats for sure.

no worries..

glad to help.

Cobalt drill bits for the tough stuff.

Al.

You can use ARTU drills for hardened steel but if its that hard a tap will not usually touch it.

When sharpening masonary bits use a dust mask, the dust is very bad for you, it can give silicosys wich is simiar to aspestosys.