Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'day all

I have a 2.8 turbo lux. the turbo and manifolds and all is off a 2.4 surf motor. ct20 turbo. the power is good and all i just want a bit more... like all blokes.

as a matter of interest does any one know what sort of power it has now, has anyone done the same thing and had it dynoed?

what sort of things is everyone doing to get more balls out of them, FMIC, bigger turbo, wind fuel and boost up?????

Any help would be great

Cheers!

what fuel pump do you have on it?
do you have the oil cooler and oil spray bars fitted?

hiflow the turbo or even better get a decent turbo. Ct20 are on the small side when fitted to the 2.4 let alone the 2.8. not exactly a great design either.

What boost are you running? Grab a water to air intercooler or a cheaper option is a standard intercooler off an rx-7 or skyline. Should be able to wind the boost up safely to about 12 - 13 psi.

there is a SuperCharger in the for sale section to suit a 2.4 lux Just get a smaller pulley!

its on about 9psi atm. and i have fitted a boost t so i can wind it up if needed. it has a sr5 fuel pump... if there is any diff from stock. and we removed the precombustion chambers. if i get a intercooler... a big front mounted or a smaller top? and what turbo should i get? ct26?

Try and grab a TD04, as this what i have and find it great. Its not a huge turbo but boosts up early (about 1500rpm) and by about 1800rpm is pushing 5psi. Tops out at about 13psi at 3000rpm

I'm sure other people are going to say different but personal opinion is the top mounts aren't that great on the trails as you are usually doing slow work so with the cooler sitting above the engine and no air movement it becomes ineffective. Go the front mount just be aware if you put it out in front it becomes more venurable to sticks and the like.

Outer Limits Hilux wrote:.........and we removed the precombustion chambers.

???? eh what? i would expect it to run like crap with those removed. you canplay around with different sized ones.

if you really want decent power you relly need an injection pump with a boost comp otherwise you will over fuel when on low boost. i'm told the boost comp off the surf is a straight swap over.

skylux wrote:Try and grab a TD04, as this what i have and find it great. Its not a huge turbo but boosts up early (about 1500rpm) and by about 1800rpm is pushing 5psi. Tops out at about 13psi at 3000rpm

what car has a TD04 on it?

Mitsubishi Evo Lancer or WRX

Would the TD04 need a whole new set up or bolt in where the ct20 was?

Also when you mention HI flowing a turbo, what do you mean as When I tried to serch a turbo place to get it done, I found nothing.

thehanko wrote:Would the TD04 need a whole new set up or bolt in where the ct20 was?

Also when you mention HI flowing a turbo, what do you mean as When I tried to serch a turbo place to get it done, I found nothing.

If it doesnt, you can get the end plate on your manifold modified to suit the TD04.

Another good thing about the TD04 is it is watercooled. Any good turbo place should be able to help you out.

And what if i get a bigger turbo?
will it spool up quicker or take longer. will the max boost last longer or fall shorter?

will bigger pipe to/from the fmic help?

Just another question.

i have heard of a bloke turboing and supercharging his 4.2 patrol.

could i do this to my lux or am i just pulling my d**k. would this give me power everywhere or just double the boost from the turbo?

would it even work, would you go from turbo - supercharger - fmic - intake?

big job i know, but i don't want a petrol and these motor's are easy for parts.

Outer Limits Hilux wrote:G'day all

I have a 2.8 turbo lux. the turbo and manifolds and all is off a 2.4 surf motor. ct20 turbo. the power is good and all i just want a bit more... like all blokes.

as a matter of interest does any one know what sort of power it has now, has anyone done the same thing and had it dynoed?

what sort of things is everyone doing to get more balls out of them, FMIC, bigger turbo, wind fuel and boost up?????

Any help would be great

Cheers!

Put the spring from a ninja fuel pump into your 2.8. Will go like a rocket.

Outer Limits Hilux wrote:And what if i get a bigger turbo?
will it spool up quicker or take longer. will the max boost last longer or fall shorter?

will bigger pipe to/from the fmic help?

A bigger turbo will take longer to spool up, the boost range will be alot higher and want last as long, no point having a large on a hilux because they don't rev high

Outer Limits Hilux wrote:Just another question.

i have heard of a bloke turboing and supercharging his 4.2 patrol.

could i do this to my lux or am i just pulling my d**k. would this give me power everywhere or just double the boost from the turbo?

would it even work, would you go from turbo - supercharger - fmic - intake?

big job i know, but i don't want a petrol and these motor's are easy for parts.

It would be a huge job if you could fit it all in

skylux wrote:

Outer Limits Hilux wrote:And what if i get a bigger turbo?
will it spool up quicker or take longer. will the max boost last longer or fall shorter?

will bigger pipe to/from the fmic help?

A bigger turbo will take longer to spool up, the boost range will be alot higher and want last as long, no point having a large on a hilux because they don't rev high

they do 4000 rpm which is as much as any idi motor does.

the 2.8 tends to chock on the ct20 hence the big drop off at 3000rpm. a too big a turbo will have poor boost range, just a matter of finding one that suits. alo most will require a new manifold or adaptors. plenty of conversion kits around.

hiflow, its just fitting a different compressor and machine the housing to fit it. ask around, plenty of the surf guys get it done. plenty of reports of more power and more importantly lower temps.

Sell ya 2.8 and chuck in a V6 commo motor. I've got a 2.8 lux with DTS turbo, denco water to air intercooler, running 10psi and it'd just pull the skin off a custard. Basically, even if you doubled your power, two time sweet FA is still bugger all. If you want diesel reliability and the ability to run under water (that's why I'm staying with it) then just leave it alone, otherwise get a different donk or a big diesel truck (pootrol or cruiser). For all my efforts/expense I've got a mindblowing 70 horsepower at the rear wheels with fuel set to give a fairly safe 520 degree exhaust temp. Also added an AXT oil cooler to keep shite under control.

Cam

RedRat wrote: I've got a mindblowing 70 horsepower at the rear wheels Cam

Are you sure that isn't kilowatts? Cause mine with a CT20 puts out 78KW at the wheels and is not intercooled at 11psi. Not sure at EGTs though.

Ben.

why would ya put a stupid v6 commo hos in it?? there useless.. if ya talkin good cheap power and gonna convert.... 3RZ!! Ive got rid of my 2.8 for a 3r and it has double the power + more... my 2c. i have lost count of the amount of 2.8 and even highflowed and cooled 4.2 trols in it

Then theres the expensive option- 1KZ-TE.

Less horsepower, but more torque than the 3RZ (295nm) and the same diesel reliability.

Plus you can screw them out to 100kw/400nm at the wheels with just a chip!

I would NEVER go petrol while there are factory turbo diesels avaliable. If i had had the patience, i'd have whacked the 1KD-FTV from the new D4D lux's into mine

The D4D donk would be the shizzle, ballsy down low and just keep pulling. How expensive would that job be? Whole lot of electronics if ya go for a swim though.

hilux79 how on earth did you get 105hp (78kW) out of ya critter? That'd mean over 100kW at the flywheel which seems a little far fetched. I talked to Denco when I was getting mine sorted and they had a play ute that they got up to around 95hp at the wheels (70kW) but exhaust temps were nasty. Send me your secret cause I've spent nearly $5K, lucky I love the rat or I'd have shot it by now. They're just such fun in the bush.

Mine is definately a slug compared to most, the donk was a bit tight/sluggish when I bought it with only 67000km on it. An old dude had been doing less than 10000km per year in it. I thought I'd flog the 'old geezeritis' out of it but it's still sluggish. I've done a head recon, injectors, injector pump timing, cleaned all the sludge out of the block/sump so not sure what it's problem is. Even buggered off the restrictive cast pipes that came with the DTS kit and replaced with stainless mandrel and silicone bends. Any tips on what else to look at? It's now up to about 140000km.

Red Rat mine has pretty well what you have listed: Head has been tidied up, injectors, boost compensator on pump, 3" exhaust with custom dump pipe with separate pipe for wastegate. Not sure if anything has been done to the CT20 as the conversion was done before I bought it, I have just done the head and injectors since I have had it. Is there a chance your Denco water to air barrel is restricting it. Will try and work out how to post the dyno sheet up this arvo. Do know of a bloke I work with that has cracked 100hp at the wheels out of his as well.

So you're saying I shouldn't give up the dream of actually being able to feel some acceleration in the rat. I've not heard of the separate wastegate pipe, this is to reduce backpressure in the exhaust manifold is it? The Denco shouldn't be a problem, there is only about 0.5 psi boost drop accross the barrel and the ducts are way better than the original setup. Plus it's dropping around 50 degrees out of the inlet temps. Exhaust is fat with only a hotdog in it and ends just behind the cab. I wonder if the old bloke lugging it around for the first 8 years really caused the issues. I know my old man's navara is dead as a dodo after him lugging around at 80k/h in overdrive for 7 years. I'm chucking in the pyro I got from the hanko this weekend to see if I can safely crank the fuel up a bit more. At the original dyno tune we were pretty conservative cause I was doing a lot of cruel beach work where temps get nasty.

I don't think you will ever make a race car out of it but you should definitely be able to find some more power out of it.

The idea of the split pipes is to stop turbulence just behind the turbine wheel. Instead the two pipes join at the end of the dump/front pipe.

The 3rz's seam to be the go for power. I did contemplate doing the conversion instead of doing the head on mine but then would have to got rid of the dead 3L.

Here is the dyno read out.
It was actually 77.5 Kw's

RedRat wrote:The D4D donk would be the shizzle, ballsy down low and just keep pulling. How expensive would that job be? Whole lot of electronics if ya go for a swim though.

Well, I managed to convert my 2.8D to a 1KZ-TE 3.0TD for under 10k, but that was using a Jap import halfcut surf which had done 90,000kms, and i did all the work myself.

you could PROBABLY pick up a rolled D4D lux from auction for around 10K, strip out the engine and wiring and convert it, but it dont think you would get much change out of $18K.

And as for drowing the leccy diesels- im not concerned about that on the 1KZ-TE motor, when i was putting it all in together, i looked carefully at the plugs toyota use. Every plug has an internal O-ring to seal it against the other plug body, the wires are sealed in with silicone plugs, and the whole shebang is stuffed with di-electric grease from factory.

ferrit wrote:

RedRat wrote:The D4D donk would be the shizzle, ballsy down low and just keep pulling. How expensive would that job be? Whole lot of electronics if ya go for a swim though.

Well, I managed to convert my 2.8D to a 1KZ-TE 3.0TD for under 10k, but that was using a Jap import halfcut surf which had done 90,000kms, and i did all the work myself.

you could PROBABLY pick up a rolled D4D lux from auction for around 10K, strip out the engine and wiring and convert it, but it dont think you would get much change out of $18K.

And as for drowing the leccy diesels- im not concerned about that on the 1KZ-TE motor, when i was putting it all in together, i looked carefully at the plugs toyota use. Every plug has an internal O-ring to seal it against the other plug body, the wires are sealed in with silicone plugs, and the whole shebang is stuffed with di-electric grease from factory.

can buy a whole hilux with 1KZ-TE 3.0TD here for 3k. probably not to bad.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Damaged-toyota-h ... 286.c0.m14

$3000 for the wreck, $1200 for the new non burnt ECU, $1000 for the whole engine loom to replace destroyed burnt one.