Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey peoples!! I've recently put hilux diffs under my zook... and have been having heaps of problems with a real bad "shudder" ever since the conversion. I've done heaps of things to try and help/eleminate the prob.. but seems like i may have to run a CV style tailshaft. I've been told they can heat up really hot on long trips.. and be a pain in the arse.. Has anyone ever ran one on their rig.. and how was it?? Thanks heaps!

Later Gen2 Pajeros have CVs on the tailshaft from the factory. They're so unreliable that most of us didn't know they were there.

Do it.

an jk jeeps run cv's in the tailshafts too.

hhmmm... thats interesting!! Anybody else had any experience please?

get it up there wrote:Hey peoples!! I've recently put hilux diffs under my zook... and have been having heaps of problems with a real bad "shudder" ever since the conversion. I've done heaps of things to try and help/eleminate the prob.. but seems like i may have to run a CV style tailshaft. I've been told they can heat up really hot on long trips.. and be a pain in the arse.. Has anyone ever ran one on their rig.. and how was it?? Thanks heaps!

Driveshafts pahsed, balanced, what's the JWA on them?

the shudder could be spring wrap too... might pay to check if thats the case and look into a trac bar.

the shudder will be the offset centre on the hilux diff not in line with the transfer case.

Pretty sure he tried to fix that issue by running a bundera rear.

bazooked wrote:the shudder will be the offset centre on the hilux diff not in line with the transfer case.

The offset of the diff shouldn't make a difference. The transfer output axis and diff input axis should be parallel to each other (or as close as practical - it will never be perfect over the full range of suspension travel) but it shouldn't matter whether the displacement is vertical, horizontal or a combination of both.

Note that it's Parallel - not aligned.

yup... put the bundera housing under a few weeks back.. no difference at all. The angles look sweet now.. (with the old housing the were 8.6 degrees different ).. burrowed a angle finder off a mate today,, if i was using it right (im sure i was though), i've only got 1 degree difference. Even by eye, the 2 paralel's looks fine. But.. when the transfer is in neutral, and the gearbox is in 4th or something.. there is still crazy noises (clunking and banging) coming from the jackshaft. The unis are fine, the box is new (3 km's old!!), the transfer is new, and the "shuddering" wasnt there b4 i did the conversion.. so dont see how it can be the jackshaft, cause none of that was touched for the conversion!!
I've looked into the axle wrap, but cant be that.. the "shuddering" is there constantly.. doesnt matter if its rolling in neutral, under power, or off power

Are the uni joints on the jackshaft "phased" properly?

Take the jackshaft out - still have a problem?

get it up there wrote:.. when the transfer is in neutral, and the gearbox is in 4th or something.. there is still crazy noises (clunking and banging) coming from the jackshaft.

if your tcase is in neutral and your rear driveshaft is not spinning
and it is still making noises and shuddering it cant be your rear drive shaft

it would definatly be a crook bearing or somthing

the jack shaft can only be out of phase if you have modified it and not rewelded it back on properly

-Scott- wrote:Take the jackshaft out - still have a problem?

x 2

when i started the conversion.. there was no vibes at all. I didnt touch the transfer or gearbox while doing the conversion. The vibes have been there ever since i did the conversion.. which makes me wonder how it can be the jackshaft.. if i didnt touch the box, transfer, or jackshaft?? I've been towed up the road with no tailshaft.. and theres been no vibes. Oh.. when i say vibes.. i mean "shudder".. not really a vibration. A mate (mechanic by trade) Looked at the unis on the jackshaft just incase.. even he said their fine!

When you had the transfer in neutral and the gearbox in fourth gear was the zuk moving or stopped , Cheers Paul.

In his sig, get it up there wrote:F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs and springs, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, reinforced mounts, 32's, 9500 winch, webber

Which mounts were reinforced?

MART wrote:When you had the transfer in neutral and the gearbox in fourth gear was the zuk moving or stopped , Cheers Paul.

Stopped mate.. and your could hear the noises from the jackshaft. 2 weeks ago, i noticed the jackshaft had heaps of movement up and down.. it was coming from the ouput shaft on the box. I got the gearbox rebuilt, now theres no more slop. BUT.. i did notice that the jackshaft was not riding on all of the output shaft.. someone b4 me owning the zook must have got the jackshaft cut, and took 30mm off it. Why, i have no idea!! So i've made a spacer.. now its all good. So yes, the jackshaft seems like it has been played with, but once again.. the box and t/case wasnt touched during the conversion, and there was no vibes there b4!!

MART wrote:When you had the transfer in neutral and the gearbox in fourth gear was the zuk moving or stopped , Cheers Paul.

mine makes a funny sort of knock from somewhere when moving
but transfer in ,box in gear but clutch in ideas?
had transfer pulled apart by auto joint all good unis good
sorry for the hijack

-Scott- wrote:

In his sig, get it up there wrote:F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs and springs, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, reinforced mounts, 32's, 9500 winch, webber

Which mounts were reinforced?

Transfer mounts. This was done well b4 the conversion though

Were you careful with the earth lead placement doing the conversion?

I don't want to sound condiseding but could you have arced through the t cace/gearbox bearings? This will wreck a bearing instantly, causes pits and sometimes can weld balls/rollers inplace.

If you bought the car stock, and it has a Suzuki motor, gearbox and transfer in the standard locations then there's no reason the jackshaft would or should have been shortened. Swap it with another one and try it. The spacer is probably bad news if it really is a standard length shaft as the gearbox and divorced transfer are mounted and move independantly of each other and you may be bottoming out the jackshaft at the output of the gearbox.

If the unis are okay not much can go wrong with the jackshaft, particularly as it was all fine before the conversion (ie. slipjoint). Sounds like somethings not right inside that transfer case.

thanks for the help guys!! The transfer is around 1500 k old.. was brand new from america. We were very careful with the earth placement.. but maybe this still could have been an issue?? bloody wierd one hey!

Called a local company today.. they specialise in balancing etc.. they said now that the flange angles are only approx 1 degree different, the double cardon joint is doing opposite than what its suppose to!! If i was still running 8.6 degrees like i was with the old housing, the DC joint would work a treat! So now.. the next thing is to try a normal tailshaft.. uni's each end!!

dude if your running a DC you gotta point the pinion "at" the transfer case, you only run the pinion parrallel to the output flange when you have a uni at each end.

Dee wrote:dude if your running a DC you gotta point the pinion "at" the transfer case, you only run the pinion parrallel to the output flange when you have a uni at each end.

Yup.. thats what i just found out!! If a normal t/shaft will worl with my set up now.. you beauty!! Be good to get rid of the DC joint all together!

I thought it had been decided that it wasn't the tailshaft causing the problem? What happened to the issue being upstream of the transfer?

this whole thing started confusing me ages ago!! Still may be the tailshaft, cause when i get towed with no tailshaft.. theres no vibes!

I run cv drive shafts and yes are are no good on road. They are not designed to be spinning that quick(well the one i have anyway)
Have you checked that the slip joint has gone back in the correct alignment? and not 90 deg out?? I have seen this cause what you describe.also does your slip joint have enough travel clearance in and out.
these question might have be asked but i dont care! to much reading
hope this helps

Chad

WOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! The vibrations have gone!!!
As stated b4.. The flange angles are now within 1 degree.. which is near spot on. The problem was the flange angle like the guy from the balancing shop said.. the DC joint was running on to much of an angle! A normal uni tailshaft fixed her! Thanks for your help peoples

What happened to the vibration when the car was stationary and the transfer in Neutral? I still say remove that spacer you've put in the jackshaft so it doesn't bottom out.