Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am putting some of the final touches to the Hilux this weekend and one thing still remains un sorted. WTF am I going to do about mounting the radiator . Pic below shows how tiht it is. BTW, that long spiggot is already in the scrap bin

I either cut and shut the radiator support panel to give more room in front, or Rear Mount it. Have never done a rear mounted radiator before so have not got a clue. I'd love your comments, thoughts on which is best and how best to do it. SOme people say to use Aluminium pipes, and others say Poly pipe. Anyway, let the awesome tech begin

Cheers

Pete

Is it possible to change your pulley setup to a thinner one?? or gilmer belt drives?? to make more room for the radiator to fit without choppin up?

BTW - you said its a purpose built rock rig - means that rear mount would also be a good idea.

Just my 2c

i would go a rear mount if you are gonna be goin slow, as there wont be half as much airflow under the bonnet as if you mounted it on the tray with a couple of thermos hooked up.

Thinner Pulleys etc wont help much unless I can change over the waterpump or something, then there is still always the risk of putting the pulley through the radiator. The standard position is really a no go.

Rear mount does look like the best option and the car will NEVER see the road. So who's done rear mount before, what pipe did you use, what are the pitfalls etc??

Pesky Pete wrote:Thinner Pulleys etc wont help much unless I can change over the waterpump or something, then there is still always the risk of putting the pulley through the radiator. The standard position is really a no go.

Rear mount does look like the best option and the car will NEVER see the road. So who's done rear mount before, what pipe did you use, what are the pitfalls etc??

PM Strange Rover he has a rear mount in the lockless, IIRC he used exhaust tube for plumbing and rubber sections and hose clamps for the flexy bits

Tom

Rear mount it! There are no disadvantages and lots of advantages. All that's involved is running pipes and hooking up power to some good electric fans.

Use some rugged steel pipe for most of the rearward piping and use rubber hoses at the radiator and at the motor.

You'll even gain a few horsepower by not running the mechanical fan. Shweeeet.

That's my 2c worth.

Jason

Excellent Idea. I forgot Sam was running rear radiator. Anyone know of cheap source of Exhaust pipe in Brisbane??

Does anyone see issues with running steel radiator pipes and an alloy motor??? Possibility of the dreaded electrolysis eating everything out

it should be fine as long as you dont have electircal current r4unning though it. but you might also want to think about putting an electric water pump in for the slower stuff if it runns hot

Ruff and Sam be the men to talk topo, both have had similar problems, sam went rear radiator and ruff changed the front of the motor over as he said to you in another thread, without doing a booty fab bonnet extension that is the best way.

Rear rad might be quicker and easier, give me your LT230.

Plus rear rad moves some weight to the back.

Pesky Pete wrote:Does anyone see issues with running steel radiator pipes and an alloy motor??? Possibility of the dreaded electrolysis eating everything out

This is only a problem if they are in actual contact with each other, hence you use rubber hose at the radiator and the motor. If they are separated this way it's really no worse than having a steel chassis and alloy motor.

Jason

Ruggers wrote:it should be fine as long as you dont have electircal current r4unning though it. but you might also want to think about putting an electric water pump in for the slower stuff if it runns hot

This is a good point. My guess is that it will be fine but it might end up being necessary. Might as well be alive to the possibility in advance.

Jason

Ruggers wrote:it should be fine as long as you dont have electircal current r4unning though it. but you might also want to think about putting an electric water pump in for the slower stuff if it runns hot

Something you may have forgotten - the water/coolant in the radiator is able to conduct the current necessary for electrolysis to occur.

However - Exhaust pipe is aluminium plated, and if you run plenty of corrosion inhibitor it should be fine.

ISUZUROVER wrote:Something you may have forgotten - the water/coolant in the radiator is able to conduct the current necessary for electrolysis to occur.

No, this is incorrect. The metals must be in contact for electrolytic (actually I think it is better called 'galvanic') corrosion to take place. If the coolant is conductive, it will still only make half the circuit; contact between the metals would then complete it.

Even if it were a problem the net effect would be to protect the alloy motor from corrosion and cause the steel pipe to corrode faster, which is probably not that bad.

Jason

No, this is incorrect. The metals must be in contact for electrolytic (actually I think it is better called 'galvanic') corrosion to take place. If the coolant is conductive, it will still only make half the circuit; contact between the metals would then complete it.

i used to electroplating for a while and the metals shouldnt contact for plating to occour its the electrical current that the metals from metal the other normally alloy to steel.
to test for it get a multimeter and dip the postive into your coolant in the radiatior dont touch the radiator then the negative to your -ve terminal on your battery any more than .5 volt then you might have a problem. just dont earth anything to the radiator its the most common problem

Sorry Ruggers, that voltage reading for stray current should read .05V not .5V. The recommendation from radiator manufactures is to use an analogue rather than digital multimeter (don't know why) or a simple go/nogo red light/green light electronic meter which is available from radiator suppliers. When checking for stray current also check all you electrical components by turning on lights/parkers/indicators/brakes, heater fan, reverse light, interior light in fact anything electrical. Stray current is the next largest killer of radiators after chemical cocktails caused by mixing coolants.
Regards Andrew.

dont get me wrong but wouldnt the shat and impeller of the pump that is already on the motor be made of cast iron or steel and most engines anyway run cast uron blocks with alloy heads.