Outer Limits 4x4 Board

how hard is it to do a seal kit in the front axel n the hubs just new so need some feed back thanks hoping to do it myself not take to mechanics if i can help it haha

Piece of piss mate.

First step- Get a gregorys workshop manual- best $60 you'll spend.

Get a full knuckle rebuild kit, and two wheel bearing kits. Things to be aware of is you will need a 54mm socket for the big nuts on the stub axle- Ebay will help here.

buy at least 2kg of grease and enough paper towel/rags to dispose of at least 4kg- you'll need it!

when you remove the kingpin bearings, make sure you keep the shims in the same spots they came from- otherwise you'll flog out your inner axle seals really quicky.

put some anti-sieze on your cone washers when you put them back in, then when you have to re-do your bearings again in 40,000kms time, a simple tap on the side of the hub body with a hammer will free them, rather than bashing the snot out of the studs with a brass drift

Other than that, pretty straight forwards. Done it twice on mine, hubs at least a dozen times.

Get some Marlin seals from Locktup4x4 too..

I had some ridiculous quotes when trying to get a 54mm hub nut socket. up to $200. cause most tool shops didnt know what i wanted.

in the end i bought one from the guys who do the terain tamer parts for $22.

I was a bit unsure about doing it my self but its pretty straight forward. if you search you will find a step by step photos thing for it online.

its messy, but not too bad. be aware you kind of need to disconnect your brake lines (you can just bend them out of the way but its a bit scetchy. so get enough brake fluid to refill and bleed it.

i got my hub kit from terrain tamer as well and it came complete with wheel bearings.

yeah- get a pair of cheap vice grip pliars, put some 13mm pvc pipe over the jaws and use them to clamp your brake lines (Dont do this with braided lines!)

Its easier to just seal the reservoir with some glad wrap under the cap to prevent fluid leakage..

insted of a big socket you can use a hammer and an old flathead works everytime

xxxhilux wrote:insted of a big socket you can use a hammer and an old flathead works everytime

Yes, you can even set your wheel bearing preload with great precision with this method.. When your wheel falls off out in the bush, youll be wishing youd spent the $25 to do it properly..

if you know what your doing this works fine just tighten thm up untill there is minimal movement in the hub with tyre on

Obviously this guy doesnt, otherwise he wouldnt be asking? Either way this is poor advice, there is nothing worse than butchering the nuts, worse for the next guy that wants to do it with his socket and cant because the socket doesnt fit a dinged up nut.. With the screwriver, you have no idea how much torque is on the locknut either..

There is a suitable socket on eBay now.. I use the Terrain Tamer knuckle kits, reasonable price, the quality with them is good, Koyo bearings, part number is SH3..

The brass drift on end of stud to remove collet method is the only one IMO, beating on the lockout works but damages them and deforms the collet seat..

Yeah ebay socket heaps better even i you don't use it to set the load with torque wrench still faster than screwdriver and doesn't stuff them so 26 bucks well spent in my book.
Also some people are born butchers

and when you DO butcher them, those nuts are about $30 EACH from toyota- best of luck matching them at CBC- I couldnt when i dropped and lost one

thanks for all the advice has help alot thanks