Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've sprung an oil leak from my rear diff pinion seal. Changing the seal is easy enough, but does anyone know what to torque the flange nut to?

From memory there's a range of torque, but you also have to monitor drag when turning (with a fishing scale or similar) so there's not a hard and fast answer. That's because a certain amount of preload is required and that's provided by compressing the crush sleeve.

If the crush sleeve has already been crushed a couple of times and the car has some Km's on it, I don't believe that in all cases correct preload will be achieved.

Sorry, don't have a hard and fast answer and don't have the FSM in front of me either.

Generally, in my experience, you can't just run the pinion nut off, change the seal, and run it back on and crank it to a number. I've seen lots of sierras with loose pinions, almost always occurring after a "quick seal change"

Steve.

if your diff is sweet bar the oil leak just mark where the pinion nut is and remove, change your seal then tighten the nut up to the same mark. make sure its exactly in the same spot otherwise your preload will be changed.

I know Steve you're correct, but to monitor the drag properly, I'd have to remove the wheels and axles too, would'nt I?
As much as I hate to admit it, I did a dodgy and put the new seal in, put the flange on and torqued it up with my rattlegun. The only way I could stop the play was to tighten it as far as it would go indicating my crush sleeve is probably rooted. Took it for a drive around the suburb and it seems allright so far. Time will tell if it shits itself, it's a good excuse to tell the missus I need to rebuild it and sneak an airlocker into it at the same time

If you're going to do it quick and rough, ras86 is correct - mark the spot, back it off, count the turns, change the seal, run the nut back on, count the turns until it starts to go tight and then line up the marks.

to check preload yes you have to have the axles out, by which time you might as well do it with the diff on the bench so you can properly check the pattern and play to know whether you were wasting your time or not.

and correct, gunning the pinion nut up won't be good for the crush sleeve.

Steve.

i jsut noticed that my zook is doing the same thing today.. looks like a new rear seal for me too

u wouldnt happen to have the part number there would u?

Same problem, These seals are killing me. As pyroteck mentioned part number anyone????
88 WT

Don't know the Suzuki part number because they frigged me around for almost a week to get me a seal that I purchased over the counter at BSC Motion Technology for $15. It's an NOK seal, part number AE2419-E0. Should be able to pick it up from places like CBC Bearings as well.

i've done a quick search here at work and come up with the following
part numbers and sizes

Pinion seal to suit

SJ410 (1ltr) 1979-1999 - front and rear
Amaando number = 401041N
= ID. 35mm X OD. 62mm X W. 10mm
= RRP $8.50 +

SJ413 (1.3ltr) front and rear.
i have two listings
a) Amaando number = 401098N
= ID. 40mm X OD. 72mm X W. 9/15mm
= RRP $12.00 + (due to it having a dust lip)

b) NAK number = PR0815
= ID. 38mm X OD. 50mm X W. 8mm
= RRP $9.00 +

so i would take the seal as a sample, run a ruler over it or buy both and return whatever doesnt work.

weaves.

sj80 rear pinion seal

09283-40027

i had the same problem with the centre leak but mine was a easy fix heheheh i unblocked the breather