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Timing chain replacement, type ? info ?

Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2004 6:39 pm
by Rovernaut
I've done 190K on my 3.9 EFI.V8i
I believe that is advisable to change the timing chain on high milage engines.
Question: Should I replace it with a genuine chain and also replace the camshaft and crankshaft gears with the same. OR/ Go for an after market timing set?
I was at a spars supplier the other day and was advised that I would have to buy a new kit as there was a problem with OEM timing chains rubbing the timing casing, causing it to wear a hole in it. And this $450 'kit' remedied it.
I'm a little confused, My OEM has been fine till now.
I also have heard there are Duplex timing chains avail.
Any one replaced theirs recently and can give me some info.

Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2004 7:17 pm
by RobG65
I replaced mine when I did my cam, with a Rollmaster roller timing chain set. I doubt the OEM will ever rub on the timing case. However I can tell you the duplex will. What I did was bolt the timing case back lightly after installing the cam & timing set, and rotated the motor so I could see where it was going to rub, then using an angle grinder removed enough material so that it wasnt going to be a problem any more. Easy to do, just easy does it with the angle grinder, wouldnt want to break though the other side :lol: .

Regards
RobG65

Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2004 7:49 pm
by Rovernaut
RobG65, since you had to remove some metal on the timing cover , if the roller master chain stretches won't it then cut through??? :?:

Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2004 8:10 pm
by RobG65
Being Duplex chain it shouldnt stretch as quickly as the OEM. The area that needed to be cleared was around the camshaft sprocket area. The chain being guided by the sprocket should keep it away from the area already ground. If I remember correctly on the installation desructions it was mentioned some metal removal might be required from the timing case.

By the time this is a concern for me Im hoping I will given the 3.9 the heave ho and replaced it with a holden 5Ltr efi motor.

Regards
RobG65

Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2004 8:15 pm
by RobG65
Being Duplex chain it shouldnt stretch as quickly as the OEM. The area that needed to be cleared was around the camshaft sprocket area. The chain being guided by the sprocket should keep it away from the area already ground. If I remember correctly on the installation desructions it was mentioned some metal removal might be required from the timing case.

By the time this is a concern for me Im hoping I will given the 3.9 the heave ho and replaced it with a holden 5Ltr efi motor.

Regards
RobG65

Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2004 8:32 pm
by Rovernaut
Thanks RobG65, What was the cost/ and where did you source it if you don't mind me asking. :)

Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2004 8:48 pm
by RobG65
I got mine from Les Richmond Automotive, was around $160 for the Rollmaster set, you might find it cheaper? Dont forget do get a timing case gasket and the oil seal for the crankshaft pulley in the timing case. If your lucky you can remove the timing case without stuffing the sump gasket by undoing the four front bolt from thh sump and gently removing the timing case. However for the sake of $8-10 grab a sump gasket anyway. I wasnt lucky and had to remove the sump.

Grinz only Rover I havent seen leak oil all over the drive way now.....and yes I have oil in it :lol:

timimg

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 1:12 pm
by Rangee
i have a brand new timing chain and sprockets .. it you want it ... $120 for both
cheers
Rangee

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 6:19 pm
by Rovernaut
RobG65 wrote:I got mine from Les Richmond Automotive, was around $160 for the Rollmaster set, you might find it cheaper? Dont forget do get a timing case gasket and the oil seal for the crankshaft pulley in the timing case. If your lucky you can remove the timing case without stuffing the sump gasket by undoing the four front bolt from thh sump and gently removing the timing case. However for the sake of $8-10 grab a sump gasket anyway. I wasnt lucky and had to remove the sump.

Grinz only Rover I havent seen leak oil all over the drive way now.....and yes I have oil in it :lol:

Thanks for the advice. Mine doesn't use a sump gasket. It is a later model 3.9l that requires RTV gasket silicon only.
From What I've read, I just need to apply RTV to the front of the sump atrea. It it leaks I dio the sump again. It's pretty easy fix.
How did you get the Viscous fan off. I'm thinking of fabricating a "spanner " with the 36mm opening I think it is my self. I dont have a shifter that opens wide enough.

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 6:42 pm
by RobG65
I have a shifter with a large enough opening. There are four bolts holding the pulley on to the water pump. I used a large screw driver as a lever between the hub on the pully and one of the bolts and the shifter on the nut.

Cheers
RobG65

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:23 pm
by Rovernaut
Thanks for the advise gentlemen ;)

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:57 pm
by RobG65
Rovernaut wrote:Thanks for the advise gentlemen ;)


Ummmm one thing!...the thread is left handed. So looking from the front of the motor when undoing the nut, turn the spanner clockwise.

RobG65

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 8:50 pm
by Rovernaut
RobG65 wrote:
Rovernaut wrote:Thanks for the advise gentlemen ;)


Ummmm one thing!...the thread is left handed. So looking from the front of the motor when undoing the nut, turn the spanner clockwise.

RobG65

That would make sense, otherwise it would undo it self in rotation.

Suits me fine as I'm a lefthander too :D LOL