Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have read through the forum as much as i can and found just about all the information i need just wanted to ask some Q's on stuff i couldn't find.

1. What is the best turbo to run on a tb42e for off road(early boost eg:1600-1800 rpm?
2. How much cc do the standard injectors flow?
3. What ecu has worked the best for a turbo tb42 would like to run 2 maps one for LPG & one for Petrol?

Any info you can share would be great.

Cheers
Ben

Just thought i would give some info on what i am doing.

I have just bought a 1989 GQ swb patrol and want to do a buildup for the local comps eg: CQ offroad challenge so i can get into the offroad sport nothing to full on for now.
I will be chopping the cab down to a extra cab,3"-4" susp lift,rollcage,tube tray,lock front and rear with 4.6 gears,winch bar,rock sliders,turbo tb42 on LPG & petrol and 35x12.5" for offroad and 33x10" onroad.

Any input would be great.
Cheers
Ben

It has a body lift and 5" coils but i will be taking them both out.

best turbo is a garrett GT35/40 (not sure about the 40 bit, but an XR6 turbo is pretty damn good)

ive seen and been for a drive in 2 set up with XR6T turbos and both ran michrotech... brilliant to drive and boost came on around 2 ish

I'd go straight gas (Gas Research) with the full TB42E EFI plumbing. Has been a proven solid setup that produces great power- and even better fuel economy.

Why remove both spring and body lift??? If it were me, i'd just remove the BL. I'm anti body lift.

As far as I know XR6T runs a 0.5C 1.06 GT3086R. Normal GT30/40 or GT3086 run 0.7C and 0.63t to 1.16t.

As mentioned a Good sized turbo. Try stick with ball/roller bearings maybe a T04z could be good also.

quadcamshorty and raptorthumper have done some good build threads.

For comp work I would stick with petrol.

coxy321 wrote:I'd go straight gas (Gas Research) with the full TB42E EFI plumbing. Has been a proven solid setup that produces great power- and even better fuel economy.

Why remove both spring and body lift??? If it were me, i'd just remove the BL. I'm anti body lift.

I would like to run full gas but i would also like to run petrol as backup cant get gas when your out in the bush but can carry a jerry can.

After reading through the forum having such a high lift with the springs in a swb it will handle like a pig and i would have to do mods on the tail shaft and mounts on the diff.

looking for a swb roof cut. will you be cutting roof off and joining through w/screen pillars or just cutting rear of roof off and joining.??

Sorry only chopin the back

would a MegaSquirt II ECU kit v3.0 do the job?

yeppoon_gu wrote:

coxy321 wrote:I'd go straight gas (Gas Research) with the full TB42E EFI plumbing. Has been a proven solid setup that produces great power- and even better fuel economy.

Why remove both spring and body lift??? If it were me, i'd just remove the BL. I'm anti body lift.

I would like to run full gas but i would also like to run petrol as backup cant get gas when your out in the bush but can carry a jerry can.

After reading through the forum having such a high lift with the springs in a swb it will handle like a pig and i would have to do mods on the tail shaft and mounts on the diff.

You can run petrol as a backup. Leave the original throttle butterfly wired open (or the carby), and leave enough fuel line plumbing there to allow feed from either a small fuel tank, modified jerry can, or other fuel holding container.

One of my mates has an old bone cruncher with a 350 chev on straight gas. He did as i mentioned above, and has a kit he carries that allows him to plumb a jerry can (steel, 10L & 20L) in case of emergencies.

coxy321 wrote:

yeppoon_gu wrote:

coxy321 wrote:I'd go straight gas (Gas Research) with the full TB42E EFI plumbing. Has been a proven solid setup that produces great power- and even better fuel economy.

Why remove both spring and body lift??? If it were me, i'd just remove the BL. I'm anti body lift.

I would like to run full gas but i would also like to run petrol as backup cant get gas when your out in the bush but can carry a jerry can.

After reading through the forum having such a high lift with the springs in a swb it will handle like a pig and i would have to do mods on the tail shaft and mounts on the diff.

You can run petrol as a backup. Leave the original throttle butterfly wired open (or the carby), and leave enough fuel line plumbing there to allow feed from either a small fuel tank, modified jerry can, or other fuel holding container.

One of my mates has an old bone cruncher with a 350 chev on straight gas. He did as i mentioned above, and has a kit he carries that allows him to plumb a jerry can (steel, 10L & 20L) in case of emergencies.

Thats what i would like to do just have a 60L petrol tank as backup but want to have 2 maps in the ecu for both lpg and petrol.

Because im doing a ground up build and while i have the mig out should i rotate the diffs for the 4" springs?

yeppoon_gu wrote:Because im doing a ground up build and while i have the mig out should i rotate the diffs for the 4" springs?

Definately not. Thats why God created dropped radius arms/5 link/ drop boxes for the front, and fully adjustable 5 links for the rear end.

And the beauty is, when you smash/bend a diff, you just whip it out and throw another one under there.