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1Hz 80 series overheating, and cutting out on hills.

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Posts: 187
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Location: Australia, WA Perth

1Hz 80 series overheating, and cutting out on hills.

Post by Wadezz »

hey all

I got a 80 series 1hz non turbo, im haveing 2 pobz when i got 4wdin and i go up hills soon as i let the revs low its stalls of when i put clutch in and it goes into idel, it cuts out got no idea why,

Other thing is been over heating i replaced the thermostate, then it still over heated and found out the radiator was cored so just put a brand new one in, and even still when im in 4wd Low and reving it hard of going up a big hill in 2wd holding it in 4th with revs fairly high its getting hot. before i replaced the raditor it was getting got sitting on 90 on flat but now i can sit on 110 and its fine only when im reving it a lil for 5 mins or so it will over heat i dunno weather i got a dodgy thermostate or will it be the water pump which is suppose to be a new one.

Cheers All Wade
80 Series Land Cruiser...... 4.2L diesel :)
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Location: Melbourne, Vic

Post by Toy80Diesel »

I think you need to look at the viscous fan clutch. Its very easy to change and now that you have done the radiator and thermo, it should be next on your list. When the car is getting hot, switch it off and check if the fan is hard to turn by hand. If it is loose, or easy to turn, change it. I've just fitted one from Terrain tamer.
Shut Up, Get Out, & Start Digging...
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Post by Chucky »

As for stalling, I'd check your oil level and the oil pressure cut out switch.
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Post by vSAHARAx »

deffinately is your viscous fan clutch! mine went last year and started doing what yours does. I went and replaced mine with a $200 repco one and it is shit. I really believe Genuine Toyota Fan clutch is the only way to go quite expensive but once done you can forget about it for another 15 odd years!. You can start off by changing the oil in yours, sometimes thats all it needs!

Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
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Post by Wadezz »

hey all,

would putting a thermo fan on and loosing the clutch fan do the job because thats what i was going to do but i got told to leave the clutch fan on and i got new oil in mi 4wd and its up to the right lvl not sure about the presures or how to cheak them tho.

thanks Wade
80 Series Land Cruiser...... 4.2L diesel :)
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Post by yamaha__308 »

This should help:

http://www.offroad80s.com/how-to-top-up ... t1160.html

Heaps cheaper than a new clutch!
Posts: 187
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Post by Wadezz »

that looks fairly hard to do, and may not work if you stuff it up, thermo fan would work better i would imagine being that i would hock it up so it turns on when i start the car up. Plus not having the clutch fan gives you like 7 percent more power or somfin, is this correct??

Thanks Wade
80 Series Land Cruiser...... 4.2L diesel :)
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Post by 80's_delirious »

thermos get a bad rap from a lot of people.
there are plenty of threads here with people knocking thermos as being no good, but huge number of modern production cars rely on thermo fans only.

If they are fitted without proper shrouds and arent matched to the size of the radiator and engine requirements, they are not going to be as good as the factory fan. (Id guess most backyard installs would fit in this category)

Clutch fan should stand up to more offroad abuse and probably cheaper to fix than setting up thermos too.
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Post by vSAHARAx »

The cooling system on all the 1HZ cruisers has proven to be up to the task for many years, in conditions from one extreme to the other. Its only overheating because something is not up to scratch. Putting a thermo on it will only cover the problem up..... for how long??? Who knows. and its not something you want to do a dodgey on. These motors are very expensive to rebuild, trust me i know for a fact they really dont like getting hot! The cooling system on a Diesel 80 is not something you want to put on the back burner, or come up with a you beaut solution. Thermos........ Well they work well on normal cars but you dont find too many work horses relying on just thermos. Sure you may gain 7% in performance but lets face it..... Thats 7% of 96Kw's which really isnt going to be anything noticable.

Reason i am quite direct about this subject is because this is what happened to my mums old 1hdt when you dont keep the cooling system up to scratch........Lets just say it ahhhhhhhh Got Hot!!!

Image
^ Cylinder number 4

Image
^ Cylinder Number 5

Image
^ Started scraping off the melted alloy from the top of number 5, before thinkin i should take a pic.

Image
^ Started melting the tappet cover!!!

Image
^ Cylinders 4 & 5 are the worst, 3 and 6 have started melting the edges of the pistons and are a bit warped.
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
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Post by simkell »

yes would agree it is your viscous hub.

however i would not swap it for a thermo fan. The engine fan will always draw more air than a thermo fan, that's why they are fitted instead of a thermo. Buy a genuine unit and a new fan at the same time, yes they are expensive but all your problems will be fixed.
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Post by juzzydykes75 »

have you been playin in mud lately?
if so check your radiator isnt clogged - my 2h was iverheating on hills , checked the rad and half of it was a solid mass so no air was getting through . just an idea
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Post by turkey »

X 2 on what the other blokes have said. I just bought this old 2H Troopy and while everything looked ok it wasnt. First long drive and it was getting pretty warm. Ending up pulling radiator out for a flush and it was shagged. Replaced radiator, thermostat and housings and replaced the silicone fliud in the clutch fan and decent coolant and voila no more warmies. Even on a day like today, its 37* here with the aircon on its only sitting on a quarter and dont move :cool:
"The Bushpig"
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Post by Wadezz »

thx all,

its a brand new raditor, so to me looks like ill just have to replace the fan.
or possibly get a second hand one? or is it best just going new.
80 Series Land Cruiser...... 4.2L diesel :)
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Post by turkey »

Its more than likely the clutch mechanism part of the fan rather than the fan itself, and if your not keen to pull apart the one you have got and service it I would be inclined to get a new one.

Its not a hard job though, took me about an hour and the silicone fluid was $20 from Toyatas. I followed the same link as posted earlier and it was a piece of piss mate. I also used the tip of putting the 2 seperated pieces of the clutch in the oven to speed up the draining of the old fluid, made the job heaps quicker!
"The Bushpig"
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Post by Wadezz »

hey all,

just got the fan cheaked the fan is fine soo all it leaves me with is thats my new thermostate is stuffing up or its the water pump dunno how to cheak if the water ppump is working tho.

cheers wade
80 Series Land Cruiser...... 4.2L diesel :)
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Post by yamaha__308 »

Wadezz wrote:that looks fairly hard to do, and may not work if you stuff it up,
Why dont you just give it a crack? If you bugger it, just get a new one like you were going to.
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Post by Raptor_67 »

More basic question. Is is really getting hot?

The models that come out with the 1/2 gauges together (temp and oil pressure) are prone to overheating (the gauges that is) and giving false readings.
Might be worth hooking up another temporary temp gauge to double check.
Thats is whats happened to 2 75 series I've seen (mine included) Looking close at mine, I could see a slight burn mark on the gauge.
Annoyed the hell out of me as they are murder to get out and expensive to replace. Fortunately I had another complete dash.[/b]
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Post by Wadezz »

looks like the fan is fine its fairly stiff not loose tho,

im thinking about taking thermostate out and just running it withou it see if it gets got if it dont i no thats my problem.

thx all
80 Series Land Cruiser...... 4.2L diesel :)
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Post by simkell »

do not fully remove the thermostat. If you have an old one cut the center out (the spring section). If you remove it all together there will be to much flow and the coolant will not have time to cool down in the radiator, resulting in your engine getting hotter. also check your hoses to see if they are collapsing at high revs, they might be starving your water pump of coolant.
MUD, MUD, GLORIOUS MUD!
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