Outer Limits 4x4 Board

looking at buying a roll bar for my suzuki sierra but dont know where to get one from

does any one have one for sale

or how can i make one

thanks
craig

Cheezy Racing or any other off road fabricator in Melbourne will be able to handle it for you.



The fact that you have to ask how to make one strongly implies that you shouldn't.

what exactly are you after? Just a single hop bar behind the cab, or one with rear legs or an actaul roll cage that will protect you? There have been a few threads on roll bars, sports bars and roll cages on here. be worth finding them and having a read through to get a better idea of what you want and need

Good point V840.

Try Brown Davis.

Roll bars are expensive- be prepared. They are time consuming to build and use expensive material.

There's not really a lot of off road fabricators in Melbourne that I'm aware of.

Don't confuse a roll bar with a tough guy sticker.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:Roll bars are expensive- be prepared. They are time consuming to build and use expensive material.

x2. My 6 point cage used about $400 worth of steel, and took a lot of time to build.

iv got a roll bar that i sold 3 weeks ago on ebay never got the money for it thanks davesjeep_123 i want $150 for it im in geelong

i have a single hoop rollbar that i need to sell. i brought it for my hardtop but it doesnt fit in it. will suit soft top. its really heavy and well made. about 2.5-3" dia steel piping . can get exact specs if your interested.

hey giys i bought the one in the picture
its great and ive made some improvments and its great
i should put some pics up

ive got a coily sierra
1.6 vitara motor
5 inch lift
32inch muddies
full exhust system
4 point roll bar
racing seats
cb
winch
bull bar
roof lights
spot lights
full size spare and jerry can on back door
full alarm and central locking
5.12 diff gears
maruti 1litre trans
major wheel offset and spacing
tinted windows
center console
invertor
air compressor
power sterring
air conditioning
dual batterys
side steps
snorkle
extractors

all i have to get now is some bush wacker flares to finish it off

surprisingly enough posting the same stuff in a variety of different threads isn't such a good idea. As suggested in your other thread put it all into a members thread int eh members section as this section is for tech only as stated in the sticky at the top of the page.

Great that you found and got your bar that you wanted

[quote="over land 4x4"]iv got a roll bar that i sold 3 weeks ago on ebay never got the money for it thanks davesjeep_123 i want $150 for it im in geelong

thats a sports bar. some poeple feel it makes them look 'sporty'

A roll bar is for protection in a roll, generally made from steel. Polished alloy is not considered a roll bar by anyone except car yards.

Liam wrote:

over land 4x4 wrote:iv got a roll bar that i sold 3 weeks ago on ebay never got the money for it thanks davesjeep_123 i want $150 for it im in geelong

thats a sports bar. some poeple feel it makes them look 'sporty'

A roll bar is for protection in a roll, generally made from steel. Polished alloy is not considered a roll bar by anyone except car yards.

Xawholelot.

Steve.

^^ +1

let me know if you want the ROLL bar im selling

hey guys got a roll bar padded installed i love it
check out the pics

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr10 ... 0_3997.jpg

Liam wrote:

over land 4x4 wrote:iv got a roll bar that i sold 3 weeks ago on ebay never got the money for it thanks davesjeep_123 i want $150 for it im in geelong

thats a sports bar. some poeple feel it makes them look 'sporty'

A roll bar is for protection in a roll, generally made from steel. Polished alloy is not considered a roll bar by anyone except car yards.

I dont think adding padding makes them any stronger. I don't think having that in my car would alter my driving style at all.

to the above reply your right padding does not make it any stronger and i want to going any harder but i have always wanted one plus it looks good

Is the polished aluminium in good condition?
If so, then i reckon it would look much better without pads.

Heres my attempt at making a roll/flop bar. Dont ask me about the design, i had no real 'plan' before i started making it.

Its made from 60mm od tube, 4mm thick. The mounting plates are 100x150mm 5mm thick. There are plates on both sides of the body, bolted with 12mm high tensile bolts. Welds are done with high tensile electrodes.

I doubt it would handle a serious roll, such as at high speed, or for multiple rolls down a cliff or anything, but i feel it offers some protection in the event of a flop or light roll over.

Cost $15 to make, only had to pay for paint. and about half days work.

Mike

how do you get the spare tyre out?

grimbo wrote:how do you get the spare tyre out?

Fold front seats forward, and the tyre just fits (and i mean JUST) between the main hoop of the bar, and one of the angled tubes. My original plan was for the spare to just go in through the front half of the roof with soft top removed, but luckily it fits. (How often do you need to get to the spare, right)

Its a 33x12.5" BFG MT spare, and once in position it touches the angled tubes of the roll bar, and has about 2mm clearance behind the seats. The tyre is clamped down with a threaded rod.

I really should get a narrower, and smaller diameter spare. Im running 33x10.5" s/stone Xtremes, which are really a 31.85" tyre. They would fit more nicely, but cant really justify an extra $275 for a spare when i have a near new spare already!

Mike

i have a alloy sports bar im ditching and getting a mild steel bar made up im not sure what kind i want yet

lilzook im a little bit intrested but you are so far away got any pics?

i have a steel roll bar in mine. its a hoop with tubes going to the back like most of them.
i have had 2 ROLL overs now and it still stands, very happy with it, gives me lots more confidence.


BTW any one got a cheap windscreen surround and glass for sale??

This was my first 'roll bar', i made it out of 32nb steel pipe, with a press bender. It was "4 point" mounted with 100x100x6mm sandwich plates



I then sold it and built a proper 6point cage out of 1.5" & 1.75" DOM, with 150x100x3mm sandwich plates & high tensile bolts etc.

Nice work Dee, post some more pics. Looks uber cool

Mike, the way you have your back stays mounted means that the bends on the main hoop have no support to them.

Layto....

It seems alot for a sierra to me Dee, I've got a 4 point cage on the tray built to andra specs and it is very very simple. I think the right materials plus the right design can cut many kg's out of a decent cage design.

GRPABT1 wrote:It seems alot for a sierra to me Dee, I've got a 4 point cage on the tray built to andra specs and it is very very simple. I think the right materials plus the right design can cut many kg's out of a decent cage design.

might seem like it but it's not.
the only "extra" it's got is 1 extra piece in the roof (the centre piece) over a normal 2 diagonal brace setup, & 2 gusset pieces coming off the rear stays.

Everything else serves a purpose & is built to a spec that i can enter some comps. (harness bars, b pillar diagonal brace, door bars etc)
I fcuked around for a long time with a design to acheive max head-space, max bracing/strength, be able to refit targa/soft top. & i'd rather have a couple of kg's of steel in the roof over a big barney rubble rock coming through a gap & crushing my head, even in a slow roll over.

The only material i could have gone above this is chromoly which = tig welding & $$$ for a few kg's of weight. theres over $400 in raw steel alone in this cage as it is.
+ plates, + bolts, + powdercoating (soon) it starts to get up there...

Awesome cage Dee, let me know when you are selling it.

Dee wrote:

GRPABT1 wrote:It seems alot for a sierra to me Dee, I've got a 4 point cage on the tray built to andra specs and it is very very simple. I think the right materials plus the right design can cut many kg's out of a decent cage design.

might seem like it but it's not.
the only "extra" it's got is 1 extra piece in the roof (the centre piece) over a normal 2 diagonal brace setup, & 2 gusset pieces coming off the rear stays.

Everything else serves a purpose & is built to a spec that i can enter some comps. (harness bars, b pillar diagonal brace, door bars etc)
I fcuked around for a long time with a design to acheive max head-space, max bracing/strength, be able to refit targa/soft top. & i'd rather have a couple of kg's of steel in the roof over a big barney rubble rock coming through a gap & crushing my head, even in a slow roll over.

The only material i could have gone above this is chromoly which = tig welding & $$$ for a few kg's of weight. theres over $400 in raw steel alone in this cage as it is.
+ plates, + bolts, + powdercoating (soon) it starts to get up there...

Looks the goods Dee. Now get rid of that windscreen

Be mindful that CCDA regs will not allow bent back stays on the cage for anyone looking to run comps with a similar cage design.

sierrajim wrote:
Looks the goods Dee. Now get rid of that windscreen

Be mindful that CCDA regs will not allow bent back stays on the cage for anyone looking to run comps with a similar cage design.

thanks mate, yeah its only 2 screws. was gonna take it off @ mud bulls but it was way too dusty!
aware of the CCDA thing, unfortunately a comprimise had to be made there, theres next to no space in the back of a sierra as it is, let alone with 2 straight 1.75" rear stays...

here is a pic of mine. It was about the time i was making and installing it i wish i has a soft top. The tin-top just made it that much harder.