Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've got a two inch bl in and want to lift my tcase an inch. If you've lifted your case, what have you used?
cheers Dan

use the rocktoy ring and custom mounts

You can weld on a plate to the original bracket that lifts it up what ever amount you want and then just add a metal bush or solid block on the other side, though this gives really bad leverage on your mounts if you are running gears or lockers.

Here's the old one of mine next to the newer Spidertraxx one I got you can see the add on bit of plate, you cna probably also see the big twist in it as well I got sick of bending it back and the fact that it was week meant it wasnt getting any better didn't help.



This was another idea I toyed with but I didnt like the idea of one thing being bolted to another thing so scrapped that plan...

i think i'll take some measurements and get some custom mounts fabbed up. thanks

As per my post in another thread.

This thread came up again so I might add to it regarding the transfer lift.

There was a thread on pirate in the last 2 weeks regarding using Honda engine mounts to lift the transfer. They looked exactly the same as the Sierra transfer mounts but twice as thick. I'll see if I can find it.

Edit: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=721460

thats definitely a more simple option then custom mounts. thanks zookimal. i wonder if anyone here has used this method?????

anyone got some photos of their roctory ring?

If those studs are joined in the middle they would be pretty good, I was ripping mine in half though as they are not joined for the Sierra ones...

it seems fairly beefy in the centre compared to the sierra mount. would it be made of a harder compound considering its an engine mount?

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:If those studs are joined in the middle they would be pretty good, I was ripping mine in half though as they are not joined for the Sierra ones...

mate if the stud was one piece through (if thats what you meant) it would defeat the purpose of having a flexible mount... they are designed to flex & move independant of eachother...

Heres my set up.. works fine!

I used sierra engine mounts, in place of transfer mounts, lifted mine by around 22mm.
Mines a 1.o litre, so could be different.

if i can get some honda engine mounts i'll be giving that a go first. it seems like the easiest to do out of all the options. thanks for everyone reply's

Dee wrote:mate if the stud was one piece through (if thats what you meant) it would defeat the purpose of having a flexible mount... they are designed to flex & move independant of eachother...

If they were not joined in the middle it would defeat the purpose of most guys with lockers and gears as they get ripped in half under heavy load. As mine did, numerous times before I went to the Spidertraxx kit. The sole purpose of the rubber is not just to allow flex but to cut down vibrations as well.

I wanted to make sure they would not tare but also not be solid fixed together, my solution was truck engine mounts (MT8152N)

I'll measure it tomorrow

you guys are going about this job all wrong...

Here's what i did:
1. remove body
2. remove suspension
3. cut out all transfer cross members
4. build new transfer cross members
5. re-assemble

Never miss a chance to turn a 1 hour job into a 2 year build

greg wrote:you guys are going about this job all wrong...

Here's what i did:
1. remove body
2. remove suspension
3. cut out all transfer cross members
4. build new transfer cross members
5. re-assemble

Never miss a chance to turn a 1 hour job into a 2 year build

dont worry it might be happening soon

greg wrote:you guys are going about this job all wrong...

Never miss a chance to turn a 1 hour job into a 2 year build

So true haha.. . I have since done that now with new transfer case brackets...

i ordered three honda accord engine mounts this arvo. fingers crossed they don't rip in half

You should post up the part numbers once you get them, for us guys so we can head in and get them nice and easy...

meads02 wrote:i ordered three honda accord engine mounts this arvo. fingers crossed they don't rip in half

So you got to check them out? It wasn't mentioned if they were Civic, Accord or something else.

X2 on posting up the details on how you go.

they're from an accord. part number MT8330 from repco. the damage was $150 for the three.

awesome info , i love outerlimits!

i have lifted mine . currently using round tube with washers welded to the ends, and bolts all the way through, washers on the bolt head/nut ends. i was looking for alternate solution to hopefully cut down on vibration as it does shake a bit being solid mounted ! my stock mounts lasted less than i invisioned while running 32's .

i will see if i can get an image up for the sake of sharing

Adsport wrote:awesome info , i love outerlimits!

i have lifted mine . currently using round tube with washers welded to the ends, and bolts all the way through, washers on the bolt head/nut ends. i was looking for alternate solution to hopefully cut down on vibration as it does shake a bit being solid mounted ! my stock mounts lasted less than i invisioned while running 32's .

i will see if i can get an image up for the sake of sharing

did big gq make them for you?

greg wrote:you guys are going about this job all wrong...

Here's what i did:
1. remove body
2. remove suspension
3. cut out all transfer cross members
4. build new transfer cross members
5. re-assemble

Never miss a chance to turn a 1 hour job into a 2 year build

I have a 2" bodylift. The transfer lift RHS is 50mm x 6mm thk. Havent had a problem yet. Hole in top for original rubbers, and nuts welded in, so easy installation with bottom bolts.

Have a roctoy ring to go in also...So may have to lower it..Or cut ring to suit abit..

The transfer is actually up behind the chassis bout 15mm. The CAT however like to slide up on things.

But i think suzy likes her belly scratched

*ahem* might want to grease those tailshaft splines mate.... and put the little boot back on.

Steve.

Does the jackshaft angle become an issue when lifting the Tcase over a certain amount?

Also, how far can it be lifted without a bodylift?

Yes, it becomes much, much better.

Lifting the case about 2" results in a pretty much level jackshaft. As the jackshaft is short and spins at somewhere between 1.4 and 1.7 times driveshaft RPM, getting it really well aligned is worth the effort.

I'll post some photos tonight, but I've lifted the case and aligned jackshaft on a few cars now (including my tray) and there's a surprising reduction in vibration at speed.

obviously with tall lifts/spoa rear driveshaft angle might become a problem, but for our cars with lower lift it's all good.

Should mean jackshaft unis (the "forgotten" uni) last longer too.

Steve.

Good to know, thanks.

So a 1 or 2 inch lift would be possible with no body lift?