Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey all,

I have searched this but only found limited info, but basically we just bought the wife a tidy gxl 80series, but it has what feels like bad backlash when changing gears and chatter when decelerating. Its all stock with 300+ klms on the clock and have been told that could be front cv plates, diffs, uni etc etc or all of the above.

Now is there a way to try to pinpoint the problem with out throwing money at it and hopeing it fixes it.

Thanks in advance Lee

To a degree...its a feature, not a fault. Best way to get rid of it is to fit a part time conversion kit. Can get them from Marks Adapters or 4wd Systems, probably a couple other places too.

If it's got lockers they'll be contributing.

Paul

RAY185 wrote:To a degree...its a feature, not a fault. Best way to get rid of it is to fit a part time conversion kit. Can get them from Marks Adapters or 4wd Systems, probably a couple other places too.

x2

terra88 wrote:Hey all,

I have searched this but only found limited info, but basically we just bought the wife a tidy gxl 80series, but it has what feels like bad backlash when changing gears and chatter when decelerating. Its all stock with 300+ klms on the clock and have been told that could be front cv plates, diffs, uni etc etc or all of the above.

Now is there a way to try to pinpoint the problem with out throwing money at it and hopeing it fixes it.

Thanks in advance Lee

What year... the later models had longer splines on the stub axle which reduced some of the driveline play. You have to remember there is allot of points contact between the drive flange and the t-case where 'slop' can occur. Have a good look at all the uni joints, pull the shaft out and see if there is any play in the joints, will cost you nothing if you do it yourself. You could also try un-bolting the drive flanges and checking for excessive wear, also free if you DIY.

I would get under it with a short bar and start turning things.

First check front and read diffs at the input - you should feel take up in
a) Crown wheel
b) Side Gears
c) Axle Splines
For the front add
d)CV's
e) Stub axles / drive caps.

Then check the 2 driveshafts / uni's

With the centre diff UNLOCKED and the front wheels in the air and the car in 1st gear - try turning the front driveshaft - that will show you play in the centre diff / transfer case / gearbox all the way to the clutch.

Repeat above with centre diff locked - that will show you play in the centre diff side gears (seems to be a common complaint - fine on my 105)
(The lock locks the rear ouput shaft to the centre diff carrier)

Now drop the front end and lift just one front wheel - try and turn the lifted wheel whilst watching the prop shaft. Once the shaft stops moving (gently gently) all teh movement from there is axles / cv's / spider gears.

Mine was the front and read ARB lockers. All good now with them re-shimmed.

You will always get slighty more lash in an AWD car.

Using both hands and bar to feel take up points. Hands are sensitive, bar lets you use force.

Paul

Awesome work guys.... will try all you have mentioned this weekend if time prevails ... also DJ it is a 1992 model ...

What do people think about this on ebay?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-80-s ... 240%3A1318


My mate has a clunk in his 80, mechanic turned the front shaft and it had abit of play and reckons its the diff. Car as 420,000km on it with an auto. Quoted about 1200 or something stupid to fix though

i have seen an 80 series "sloppy driveline conversion" somewhere in my web travels.... it could have been hobzee's or ebay.. cant remember but have a hunt around.

Hobzees sells them
here's the Ebay link (hope that's allowed)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-80-s ... 240%3A1318

Your model suffers from c/v to drive plate wear. When it gets bad enough, you loose drive. Later than 93 get a wider spline, so buy a kit off hobsey and do the conversion to later c/v's or look for a whole fromt diff and get the bigger brakes from a later model aswell...plus a spare housing/diff centre and axles etc..
Andrew

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: Mine was the front and read ARB lockers. All good now with them re-shimmed.
Paul

just wondering how the arb lockers effected / created the front slopply drive. I also have front & rear arb lockers and have the same sort of slop in the front end. It completely goes away when i engage the centre diff lock. I really want to know what is causing it and if there is a way to fix it. I have had a mech check bearings and they were ok, i also checked for movement in the front cv flange but all was good.

I also get a very soft thumping noise too which almost sounds like its coming from the front right side. its does not sound like a CV on its way out with the clicking but more like something is loose and something is shifting. i cannot find the problem and am sure it has something to do with this sloppy drive issue. Any help would be great.

also check you front uni`s

check the uni's they seem fine, no slip in them all is tight. the drive was sloppy all day yesterday and i jut went for a short drive about 10k and it didn't slop around nor did i hear that soft thumping noise. i got no idea what it is.

i reckon my front right CV is on its way out. Does anyone have any tips on how to replace them, i've never done one before.

I replaced both of mine about 2 months ago. Not particularly hard (though that said 1 was a ******* basically if you have somewhere flat and a couple of axle stands, and basic tools (eg socket set, spanners) then it is easy enough.

What I have since learnt though is if I was doing it again I would upgrade to the later cv/drive flange to reduce the slop.

It is dirty and really you may as wellreplace the bearings while your at it. (You can just clean, inspect and repack the old ones... but you have to remove them anyway and they are cheap enough through sprints etc.