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disco2 front tailshaft
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:33 pm
by advdisco1
does anyone know if the double carden is at the diff end or the transfer case end. need to put it on my disco1 and i need to buy disco2 yoke to bolt it on.
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:58 pm
by Micka
Pretty sure its at the transfer end.
While its out you should get some grease nipples installed. Will make it last longer.
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:18 pm
by advdisco1
my original on my d1 has the slip part at the transfer end. if i were to put the slip part of the d2 tailshaft the d/carden would be at the diff end.
The d2 tailshaft i bought has nipples on the single uni and slip but not the d/carden unis
Re: disco2 front tailshaft
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:22 pm
by Slunnie
advdisco1 wrote:does anyone know if the double carden is at the diff end or the transfer case end. need to put it on my disco1 and i need to buy disco2 yoke to bolt it on.
The double cardin is at the transfer end, and you will need the tranfer front output flange to suit it.
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:33 pm
by advdisco1
if thats the case i can see im going to have trouble with the cross member and dc hitting each other. could it be possible to bolt it the opposite way.(would the output flange fit the diff)
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:07 pm
by Slunnie
advdisco1 wrote:if thats the case i can see im going to have trouble with the cross member and dc hitting each other. could it be possible to bolt it the opposite way.(would the output flange fit the diff)
You could put the DC on the diff if you have a shaft made with the Spicer Rover DC yolk.... but then you would have to point the transfer output flange at the diff..... and it sounds like more work to me.
Why would the Crossmember hit the DC if its at the transfer end? There should be heaps of clearance.
Re: disco2 front tailshaft
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:42 pm
by hook
Slunnie wrote:advdisco1 wrote:does anyone know if the double carden is at the diff end or the transfer case end. need to put it on my disco1 and i need to buy disco2 yoke to bolt it on.
The double cardin is at the transfer end, and you will need the tranfer front output flange to suit it.
Did it 3 years back (98 Disco 300 TDI 2" spring lift)
No problems
best thing I every did
got it from G. Cooper in Syd,
they sold me one from a V8,
after blowing a std D1 front.
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:14 pm
by TRobbo
The reason why you fit a D2 shaft to a D1 is to eliminate excessive vibration caused by suspension lift. It is not always required but was on mine. The Double cardin joint is at the transfer end and I have no problems with clearance. I have 2.5 inch of suspension lift
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:50 pm
by advdisco1
i have a 2.5-2.75 lift and ive broken 2 nipples off the slip join on the front tailshaft from it hitting the cross member. then i put long shocks in, so i had to put a cutout in the cross member. yesterday unbolted the d1 tailshaft and put the d2 tailshaft in position(the dc is only about 15mm off the c/member) about 15mm closer the the d1.
did you guys modify your crossmembers
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:42 am
by TRobbo
advdisco1 wrote:i have a 2.5-2.75 lift and ive broken 2 nipples off the slip join on the front tailshaft from it hitting the cross member. then i put long shocks in, so i had to put a cutout in the cross member. yesterday unbolted the d1 tailshaft and put the d2 tailshaft in position(the dc is only about 15mm off the c/member) about 15mm closer the the d1.
did you guys modify your crossmembers
I've done no modifications to mine and our cars seem to be set up fairly similiar.
Is yours a v8 or tdi? (I have a v8)
It sounds like your gearbox is sitting lower than normal or perhaps is twisted causing the fowling. Have you checked your engine and gearbox mounts for condition and square? I would be looking to see that they are sitting even on the chassis mounts left to right as well as the rubbers to ensure they are in good nick and the chassis brackets for any cracks.
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 5:59 pm
by advdisco1
all is good with my mounts, no problems with gearbox etc. its a v8. its a 98 model maybe the x member is different
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 7:52 pm
by TRobbo
OK I just went out and had a look at mine. (it's a 94 update). The cross member is round and in a U shape (bit like a smilie face) and is bolted to the chassis by 4 bolts either side.
The front of the dc joint finishes just before/just over the top of the cross member. I can fit a finger between the cross member and the DC joint and so have about 12 - 15 mm clearance. There is no evidence of the DC having hit the cross member.
What shocks are you running. Is it on full articulation when the DC hits the cross member? I am thinking that you may be getting better droop out of the front than I get and so it hits on full flex. I have ome 2 inch lift shocks on the front of mine.
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:09 pm
by advdisco1
i have 26.5" procomps front n' rear. ive even lifted the front shock tower up 25mm. the standard d1 tailshaft breaks the nipples off when it hits the cross member so i made a cut out. now doesnt hit. but the d1 shaft is about 1/2 the diameter of the d2 dc so its going to hit.
the cross member you discribes sounds the same as mine.
i dont know maybe be somethings different
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 7:54 pm
by Bush65
I have a 98 300tdi disco I. I have a a disco II front driveshaft, but it is not fitted.
Clearly there would be plenty of clearance from the cross member if the disco II driveshaft was fitted.
My cross member is rectangular and the front of it is only a small distance in front of the drive flange, and about 60mm below the outer edge of the drive flange.
The cross member does not bolt into the same place as my 84 rangie. The bottom front bolt is in the rear bottom position hole for the old cross member. The rear bolts on where the old gearbox and t/case brackets were fitted.
The gearbox and transfer case are mounted onto the cross member (unlike my rangie).