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King Pin Shims

Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:52 pm
by hyzook
I have a 90' Hilux front diff which I got from a wrecker, the centre was removed by the wrecker and he claims to have kept shims in their right place. The lower King pins have a lot of shims and the upper steering arms have none, this does not seem right to me and I am concerned as I believe this will cause the axle to not run in the centre of the seal.

So how can I check it and set it up right, there must be a way. I also have new high steer arms which are to be fitted and figure they may also effect the the shimming height.

Ideas or methods anyone??????

Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:17 pm
by mule75
the least amount of shims the tighter the bearing clearance will be. i do mine by feel.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 7:13 am
by dogbreath_48
mule75 wrote:the least amount of shims the tighter the bearing clearance will be. i do mine by feel.
Can't set the housing height correctly this way - so can't guarantee the axle will be properly centered in the seal.

Have a look at a toyota manual (any), they use a special tool, a couple of simple formulae and some trial and error. The tool can be replicated pretty easily with a little head scratching and expert machining :P

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 2:44 pm
by coxy321
dogbreath_48 wrote:
mule75 wrote:the least amount of shims the tighter the bearing clearance will be. i do mine by feel.
Can't set the housing height correctly this way - so can't guarantee the axle will be properly centered in the seal.

Have a look at a toyota manual (any), they use a special tool, a couple of simple formulae and some trial and error. The tool can be replicated pretty easily with a little head scratching and expert machining :P
And you should have EQUAL shimming on top/bottom of your diff, as you said hyzook.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:11 pm
by dogbreath_48
coxy321 wrote:
dogbreath_48 wrote:
mule75 wrote:the least amount of shims the tighter the bearing clearance will be. i do mine by feel.
Can't set the housing height correctly this way - so can't guarantee the axle will be properly centered in the seal.

Have a look at a toyota manual (any), they use a special tool, a couple of simple formulae and some trial and error. The tool can be replicated pretty easily with a little head scratching and expert machining :P
And you should have EQUAL shimming on top/bottom of your diff, as you said hyzook.
I'm not entirely sure that this is true. I think the housing can be offset slightly higher or lower (i.e. uneven shims top/bottom) to align the axle.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:24 pm
by coxy321
Maybe, but how are you to measure the swivel hub/axle clearances?

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:49 pm
by dogbreath_48
coxy321 wrote:Maybe, but how are you to measure the swivel hub/axle clearances?
You set the height of the housing depending on the measurements taken with the 'special tool' depicted in the workshop manual, by packing in (possibly) uneven shims top and bottom. Then you set the preload by packing in an even amount of shims top and bottom.

Or something like this :P

I'm sure i could be more precise by looking through the manual and scratching me head for a little while, but it's nearly 5pm and the beers are cols.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:41 pm
by coxy321
Righto. I can remember the preload testing, but not that shimming part.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:58 pm
by hyzook
I have new bearings to go in too so maybe I need to get a look at a workshop manual.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 7:38 am
by coxy321
hyzook wrote:I have new bearings to go in too so maybe I need to get a look at a workshop manual.
For the price of parts these days (cheap), usually you go the whole shebang anyway.

New seals all round, (inner axle seal too!!), new s/h bearings and runners, check over wheel bearings, MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE YOUR BEARING LOCK WASHER.

Best thing to do IMO is to set an afternoon aside, get a bag-o-rags, some degreaser (or a hot wash/parts washer), completely strip the front end down, inspect everything, and use all new grease. Drain your diff oil first though.

This means you can do the job properly and cleanly, you can inspect everything in good light, and you know down the track of any suspect parts/wear marks etc.

The last two hilux s/h rebuilds i did, we had to replace the outside end axle bushing (brass), as it was over time allowing the axle seal to leak, which in turn ruined the 4 hours and $200 s/h kit you just put in.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 8:32 pm
by hyzook
coxy321 wrote:
hyzook wrote:I have new bearings to go in too so maybe I need to get a look at a workshop manual.
For the price of parts these days (cheap), usually you go the whole shebang anyway.

New seals all round, (inner axle seal too!!), new s/h bearings and runners, check over wheel bearings, MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE YOUR BEARING LOCK WASHER.

Best thing to do IMO is to set an afternoon aside, get a bag-o-rags, some degreaser (or a hot wash/parts washer), completely strip the front end down, inspect everything, and use all new grease. Drain your diff oil first though.

This means you can do the job properly and cleanly, you can inspect everything in good light, and you know down the track of any suspect parts/wear marks etc.

The last two hilux s/h rebuilds i did, we had to replace the outside end axle bushing (brass), as it was over time allowing the axle seal to leak, which in turn ruined the 4 hours and $200 s/h kit you just put in.
Thanks, my plan is to rebuilt it complete hence the shimming question. Its in pieces so inspection and cleaning shold be easy.