Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Has any one got any photos of a lifted bullbar?
need some thing that works to copy from
and a novel on how to do it would be nice 8)

tjm bar was easy, just cut flat bar that goes inside chassis rails, weld it back on 2" lower then weld some angle beside original mount [make sure it clears bolt holes] and add infill flat to make it look pretty.
it was way stronger than original.
sold truck so no pics.

I just went and got some photos for you, but someone has stolen the CF card reader from the computer here. When I find out where it is I'll post them..

big red wrote:tjm bar was easy, just cut flat bar that goes inside chassis rails, weld it back on 2" lower then weld some angle beside original mount [make sure it clears bolt holes] and add infill flat to make it look pretty.
it was way stronger than original.
sold truck so no pics.

That is exactly how my ARB bar is done for a 2inch body lift. Looks like nothing has been modified.

On the topic of body lifts and bBars, if people have pictures of any bar work on GQ's would they be able to email them to me. As I am getting a custom bar made to suit my body lift and PTO winch, either next week or the one after and I need some more ideas.

email - turps@myplace.net.au

Turps

Hey Terrafirma

Just had this done for me, as I was two lazy to do it myself :wink:

The pictures aren't real flash, but its basically just had the chassis sleeve cut off and lowered two inches with extra plates and gussets welded in.

I'll try and get some better pic's before I remount it.

I'm getting the bar sandblasted, zinced and powdercoated after putting some extra braces behind it, worth more than the bar itself !

wat we do is move the chassis !!!
just in front of the round cross member, cut the chassis off , add plate (use 6 or 8 mm) re-position previously cut off sections to reguired hight & weld & gussett !!!!
that way if you ever want to change bars , for wat eva reason , u dont have to re-modify another bar !!!!!
& we get it engineered !!!!!

yeah, I've seen that, with the body mounts and everything moved up.. Very neat..

more photos please 8)

what diametre should the body lift blocks be?
and what kinda bolts are u's using?
would like to here some experiences with it so I can get it right the first time

35 to 40mm is a sensible lift.
I just prefer Ally but steel is ok. I havnt used nylon. If its hard it should be ok. Run a 12 to 13 mm hole thru the middle.
The mounts are 70mm. So min is this size . 80 is better. Under door mounts will need a slight chamfer on inner top edge if using larger than 72 as floor mount curves slightly. Check when fitting.

Bolts should be proportionately shorter than listed below. Rear two need to be longer by about 25/30,mm to allow for captive nut size.

Remove carpets, seatbelt bottom bolts.Bottom clip on plastic bit on fan cowling.
Undo all bottom nuts and two rear bolts. (use heat inside floor to break the loctite ion these two) You can drill these captive nuts out to allow the use of longer thru bolts from the top the same as all the others.
I sometimes have had to cut floor here with tin snips to get to nuts, then just screw an ally plate over hole.

Jack up truck body with bits of wood on trolley jacks front and rear until body comes clear of mounts. Check every where for binding., fuel hoses etc.
Keep lifting until new spacers can be slid in, using a bit of grease to reduce corrosion later, take care of fingers.


When istalling a body lift check the following:

1. Steering slip joint to shaft, slide down a bit to relieve stress

2. Brake coiled pipe between body and chassis (under master cyl) open them up

3. Cable loom (under passenger seat) to chassis

4. Clutch flexible pipe from gearbox to body, bend down body bracket

5. Remove small shroud extension from bottom of radiator.

6. Replace fuel feed and return hoses, body to fuel pump, with longer ones - esp on diesel.

7. Check air con hoses from pump up to body isnt snagging.

8. Low range lever will need mod to it and surrounding area, more so on GQ1s.

9. Gearlever aperture likewise for 2nd, 4th and rev.

10. etc, etc,

To make a body lift you need for a Lwb 10 x approx 70mm diam by 50mm long aluminium or steel spacers with a 13mm hole in the middle. Plus 10
of 150 x 12mm bolts, washers and nyloc nuts.

Follow the above and common sense. Its NOT a hard job.

Have fun, and take your time.

CHAMPION! CHEERS MATE 8)
me still :n00b:



other peoples experiences will help me do it right the first time I hope

Hey Moose u got any photos of the chassis mods for the bullbar?

dont have a digi !!!!!!
will have to talk to BESTY !!! , to come in & take some shots !!!!
chassis lift !
rear 1/4 cut !
rear bar to suit !
gaurd cut & roll !
ute conversion !



the list goes on !!!!!!!

terra , pics on another thread !!!!!
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=1960

TJM style (plate mount) cut & shut job with sandwhiched welded and bolted plates..

luv the lowered laser carlton !!!!!!

The laser is a weapon. It has a stereo in it worth more than the car.

Anyone done a 40mm lift for an ARB whinch bar?

do the chassis !!!!
that way you can change bars , if you want too !!!
& sell you old 1 as standard !!!

hey for the bolts ... do u's have a fully threaded bolt?
I have all the stuff I need cept for the bolts ...
what bolts do I need ... says 150mm long in the write up .. is this correct?
will high tensile steel bolt be enough?

can't remember the length, 150mm sounds about right.. Standard UNF 1/2" bolt leaves about 10-15mm of thread within the crush tube..