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Need new rotors
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 3:32 pm
by RN
Ebay has new rotors for the GQ. I have the single piston calipers as it is an '93 Mav.
The old rotors have grooves in them and I need to change the pads so new rotors are on the menu.
Tossing up whether to go for the slotted rotor or the standard. The slotted ones are noticebly more costly and wondering if they are worth the added expense.
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 4:01 pm
by MICK77
Don't bother with the slotted rotors. They increase pad wear for no discernable extra braking ability. When your out on the tracks the slots will fill with mud, dust, crap etc which prevent the brake pad from biting onto the disc. This is scary.
For the record this is not just my 2c worth. I have used slotted rotors on several vehicles including 4WD's. All without exception were disapointing.
Micko
Re: Need new rotors
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 4:11 pm
by Guy
RoadNazi wrote:Ebay has new rotors for the GQ. I have the single piston calipers as it is an '93 Mav.
The old rotors have grooves in them and I need to change the pads so new rotors are on the menu.
Tossing up whether to go for the slotted rotor or the standard. The slotted ones are noticebly more costly and wondering if they are worth the added expense.
have you ever had brake fade issue's with the solid rotors you run now ?
if not go the solids again and save the $$
Re: Need new rotors
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 4:17 pm
by bogged
Just head down to ABS on Hartnet and speak with the dude there.
Plenty of theads here sayin slotted made shit loads of difference, same on patrol forum..
totally a YMMV though.
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 5:29 pm
by mkpatrol
As Love Mud said, are the standard rotors doing the job for you?
Are you having issues with fade & such?
Do you tow heavy loads regularly that might cause you to need the extra cooling capacity?
I have towed caravans, cars, tractors with mine down mountain ranges (Brown mt, Clyde Mt & from Dorrigo to Coffs to name a few) & have never had any dramas.
As bogged said, they will make a positive difference but why change & spend extra $ if not required.
Another thing, how deep are the grooves? Are they below minimum thickness?
If not, have them machined, there are guys who do it on car here I would say there would be someone who does it down there as well.
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 5:42 pm
by RN
mkpatrol wrote:As Love Mud said, are the standard rotors doing the job for you?
Are you having issues with fade & such?
Do you tow heavy loads regularly that might cause you to need the extra cooling capacity?
I have towed caravans, cars, tractors with mine down mountain ranges (Brown mt, Clyde Mt & from Dorrigo to Coffs to name a few) & have never had any dramas.
As bogged said, they will make a positive difference but why change & spend extra $ if not required.
Another thing, how deep are the grooves? Are they below minimum thickness?
If not, have them machined, there are guys who do it on car here I would say there would be someone who does it down there as well.
They're the original rotors and are badly scored. In fact some days, not every day the rotors squeal , loud where everyone in the street looks. If I turn the wheel from side to side the squealing goes away for a while, so I thinking it must be some form of free play in the caliper or wheel bearing.
I am not a big fan of machining rotors, as in this application the scoring is deep and the thinner the rotor the more chance of overheating and warping.
Still I will seek advice. The price difference between slotted and standard is about $100 a pair.
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 7:11 pm
by mkpatrol
RN, machining rotors is a perfectly acceptable practice as long as you dont go under the minimum thichkness. I have never has an issue with a disc I have machined (other than genuine for/holden ones but they were not much chop anyway).
Dont be scared to do it, thats why they have a tolerence.
But if they are under, then flick em.
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:39 pm
by RN
How much do they charge for machining discs.
I can get new rotors for $75 a pair .
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 6:43 am
by amtravic1
Just buy new rotors. $75.00 is cheap and not much more than machining. Dont buy the slotted ones. I have used both standard and slotted and could tell no difference in them in performance. The slotted ones just relieve you of more money.
Ian
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:19 am
by RN
amtravic1 wrote:Just buy new rotors. $75.00 is cheap and not much more than machining. Dont buy the slotted ones. I have used both standard and slotted and could tell no difference in them in performance. The slotted ones just relieve you of more money.
Ian
Thanks Ian,
a few bills came in this week and being extravangant is not an option for me at the moment. Standard will suffice.
I have never removed rotors. On GQ's can you remove them without taking the hub off?
Same for the rear one's?
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:28 am
by ozy1
rear rotors come off easy, remove wheel and caliper and they will fall off,
the fronts on the other hand you have to pull right down, and you may need a press to press out the hub to seperate the disk, may need a press to re-assemble as well,
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 8:33 am
by mkpatrol
RoadNazi wrote:How much do they charge for machining discs.
I can get new rotors for $75 a pair .
$75 a pair is cheap, probably cost that for machining but then there is the R&R cost, usually about an hour a side depending on if there are any hassles. I was thinking about $75 each & that was still on the cheapish side. I guess it has been 7 & 1/2 years since I left the trade
Anyway, if you decide to replace them at least you know your bearings will be ok becase you should repack them while you are at it.
The other thing, the squealing, one of my anti squeal clips is rubbing on the disc & squealing (ironic I know
). Goes away when hot & after a dab on the brakes. They can do this after a few k's (mines got 400,000) as they lose their tension and deform. You should replace or remove them whan you do the job. Im just too lazy to do this unless I have another eason to go there
I have mixed feelings about these clips, I have seen many vehicles (just about all of them) that have them still squeal, a bit like self adjusters in drum brakes, they dont seem to work. Same with the glue. I think it just comes down to the rotor hardness, pad compound at the time & brake usage.
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 8:44 am
by sierrajim
When you've got your brakes apart make sure you check your calipers/pins for wear. Just the other day one of our club members was out and had an issue with his brakes (he'd replaced a cv only days before), his calipers has worn around the slide pins and this had thrown them out of alignment.
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 9:33 am
by smileysmoke
i got quoted 15 bucks a rotor for machining at my local AutoPro..
get your calipers out and check their thickness. good luck mate
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:57 am
by PJ.zook
Yeh machining shouldnt cost you anywhere near that, hell you can do it yourself on a mates lathe for free, not like its a special procedure, just as long as you dont go over min thickness. I dont bother doin it myself as i get special prices thru work, but it shouldnt cost you more than like $10-15 a rotor.
Re: Need new rotors
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 12:04 pm
by j-top paj
bogged wrote:
Plenty of theads here sayin slotted made shit loads of difference, same on patrol forum..
made a noticable difference when i changed to slotted on the GU
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:53 pm
by LOCKEE
Don't need a press just a hammer and a chisel to get them off, interference fit with rust as well.
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 3:45 pm
by mkpatrol
PJ.zook wrote:Yeh machining shouldnt cost you anywhere near that, hell you can do it yourself on a mates lathe for free, not like its a special procedure, just as long as you dont go over min thickness. I dont bother doin it myself as i get special prices thru work, but it shouldnt cost you more than like $10-15 a rotor.
On car with someone who comes to you?
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 5:57 am
by BJ73
DBA slotted rotors are great, huge difference over stock, if you are going for new rotors they'd be my choice
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:41 am
by RN
BJ73 wrote:DBA slotted rotors are great, huge difference over stock, if you are going for new rotors they'd be my choice
Are RBA of similar quality to DBA. Ebay has RBA so I am guessing they are imported from china.
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:26 am
by thehanko
RoadNazi wrote:mkpatrol wrote:As Love Mud said, are the standard rotors doing the job for you?
Are you having issues with fade & such?
Do you tow heavy loads regularly that might cause you to need the extra cooling capacity?
I have towed caravans, cars, tractors with mine down mountain ranges (Brown mt, Clyde Mt & from Dorrigo to Coffs to name a few) & have never had any dramas.
As bogged said, they will make a positive difference but why change & spend extra $ if not required.
Another thing, how deep are the grooves? Are they below minimum thickness?
If not, have them machined, there are guys who do it on car here I would say there would be someone who does it down there as well.
They're the original rotors and are badly scored. In fact some days, not every day the rotors squeal , loud where everyone in the street looks. If I turn the wheel from side to side the squealing goes away for a while, so I thinking it must be some form of free play in the caliper or wheel bearing.
I am not a big fan of machining rotors, as in this application the scoring is deep and the thinner the rotor the more chance of overheating and warping.
Still I will seek advice. The price difference between slotted and standard is about $100 a pair.
Sounds unroadworthy
bloody victorians not getting yearly roadworthy checks.
me thinks write yourself a ticket
had to say it sorry
At $75 a pair - just put new ones in. thats cheap.
Just another thought on the 'cheapness of them'. everywhere these days cheap stuff is available - some of it is not worth getting thought. question is can cheap rotors perform worse (still comparing solid with solid) ie sqeal more or warp easier or score easier.
Few brake guys on here so i thought its worth us all knowing.
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:53 am
by bru21
my bf xr6 fronts were shuddering after 60,000 of very light use. Took them back apparently warrenty only till 50,000.
any way I think machining is a shit idea from the start, as in my opinion its not warping that causes the shuddering its the difference in casting porosity in the steel (top to bottom) so I bought bottom end dba ones and couldn't be happier.
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 9:09 am
by thehanko
yeah falcon brakes shudder super easy, with the work ute (does a bit of towing) they warp in no time, like 15000k's.
50,000k warrenty? never used to be, i got mine fully replaced at about 95000 on the last xr6.
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:05 pm
by Surfin Alec
I got RBA rotors for my 80 series for $70 a pair from the distributors in Sydney. Had them on for a month or so. Seem to go alright.
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:35 pm
by bogged
RoadNazi wrote:BJ73 wrote:DBA slotted rotors are great, huge difference over stock, if you are going for new rotors they'd be my choice
Are RBA of similar quality to DBA. Ebay has RBA so I am guessing they are imported from china.
YTheres plenty of shit on ebay thats "genuine" thats not... Sandisk were worst hit from memory.
Look into threads on CF Cards on camera forums.. 8gig cards, that once you format them at home they wont go bigger than 1gig...
For something like brakes, wouldnt you just buy local? R&R on fronts is a piece of wee, few hours to do and clean up while your there. Yell if ya want a hand.
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 9:45 pm
by RN
bogged wrote:RoadNazi wrote:BJ73 wrote:DBA slotted rotors are great, huge difference over stock, if you are going for new rotors they'd be my choice
Are RBA of similar quality to DBA. Ebay has RBA so I am guessing they are imported from china.
YTheres plenty of shit on ebay thats "genuine" thats not... Sandisk were worst hit from memory.
Look into threads on CF Cards on camera forums.. 8gig cards, that once you format them at home they wont go bigger than 1gig...
For something like brakes, wouldnt you just buy local? R&R on fronts is a piece of wee, few hours to do and clean up while your there. Yell if ya want a hand.
Thanks for the offer Bruce, will let you know how I get on.
I located RDA's rotors for sale on ebay through Hobzee down in Mornington. Pickup is OK also.
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:00 am
by mkpatrol
To be honest RN, I wouldnt go any less the DBA.
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:36 pm
by hobzees4wdshop
RN pop into our office at 18 Latham St, Mornington.
We have RDA rotors on the shelf here.
We sell quite a few and don't have any returns or issues with them. We wouldn't sell them if we thought they were not up to scratch.
Dan
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:42 pm
by Nelso
hobzees4wdshop wrote:RN pop into our office at 18 Latham St, Mornington.
We have RDA rotors on the shelf here.
We sell quite a few and don't have any returns or issues with them. We wouldn't sell them if we thought they were not up to scratch.
Dan
How much are they?
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:16 pm
by dank
If you check out the website
www.4h.com.au and look under Nissan/GQ Patrol/Brakes you will see:
Single Piston Front (pair): $85.00
http://www.4h.com.au/prod148.htm
Twin Piston Front (pair): $125.00
http://www.4h.com.au/prod150.htm
Rear Rotors of any Patrol GU/GQ except 4.8 petrol (pair): $85.00
http://www.4h.com.au/prod146.htm
There are also slotted brake rotor options there as well.