Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys just thought id let you know that i have lifted my transfer case up by 2 inches. great easy mod to do.

just used 2 inch 4mm block galvanized steel cost me 5dollas for the steel.

tailshafts are on a bit more of an angle but all still safe and no need for tail shaft spacers.

heaps of clearance undernearth the body and transfer case is no above the chassis rails.

i do have a 2 inch body lift aswell.

And this is on a ....

how about posting in the thread that you started on this?

and also 2" box steel is not that good for transfer of vibes through the vehicle and also does not allow the transfer to rotate under stress/torque

Think he used the standard mounts just with the box section underneath

sorry guys its on a 1997 coil sierra

yeah the box steel is undernearth the mounts
so all i have done it extended the steel where the mounts sits

here are the pics

will this method put any more stress onto the mounts/bolts doing this way?

i would have thought a crush tube welded in and a bolt straight through would be stronger?

looks like a simple enough mod though =)

why ? why not lift it 2" more or put bigger wheels on or do both

Your bolts look a little short , and nyloc nuts are better as they can't come loose.To be legal they need to stick out at least a quarter of the bolt diameter.

What do you hope to achieve by doing this mod , have you checked your tailshaft clearances at full droop , that is chassis suspended and wheels in the air , if the tailshft uni binds while at high speed you will have one hell of a mess , also the more angle on your uni's the harder and hotter they work .

You say you lifted it 2 inchs and your slip joints are still ok , as well as a 3 inch suspension lift , sounds a bit sus. Have you travelled this on a ramp to check the slip joints , because you can have what you think is enough slip joint contact , but under load they can pop out and damage the spline. Also if the slip joint doesn't have the required contact length it will wobble and wear more quickly.

This is just advice mate , your truck looks quite good actually and as the other have said , start a build thread in members and cut and paste all your threads into the one thread.

Oh and one more thing , paint your mounts black so people can't see them , you don't need any unwanted attention , and you might want to think about engineering because if you have a accident with all your mods , your insurance company will just laugh , Cheers Paul.

If guys have no dramas with any of those things in a SPOA this mod won't be a problem. IMO 2" is over kill, only really need 1" but with this method that would not be possible. I can't see it putting any additional load on the mounts.

greg i used some of your body lift blocks to lift my transfer.
i took them out and now run shocky rubbers and straight thru bolts.
i had to remove, my rear flex was destroying front half of rear uni

yeah ill paint them black and nylon nuts i will do soon just used a double lock setup for the time being. 2 nuts still work as a lock nut and theres no way of that coming loose but i prefer nylon as well.

full drop and flex is and fine i get this girl off the ground all the time near my house its fun. unis will have a bit more stress but when they go ill just replace them. 1 inch lift would of be fine fot the transfer but the higher the better for rocks and logs.

im trying to go more suspension lift but its not working out yet and bigger tyres i cant right now cause i will rub. i dont wanna loose my up travel by lowering my bump stops so i need to lift
all i want is 33 lol.

33"s with 2" body lift, 2" shackles and 2" susp lift.

honestly its not like the transfer hits with such a swb car, i see no need for it.

great looking truck mate
do you love the 33s or are they bigger?

mrRocky wrote:honestly its not like the transfer hits with such a swb car, i see no need for it.

What???

It's in the centre of the car and it hangs down, seen plenty get caught up on the transfer. Look at most hardcore Sierra's and the transfers all show signs of being bashed

just cruizin' wrote:

mrRocky wrote:honestly its not like the transfer hits with such a swb car, i see no need for it.

What???

It's in the centre of the car and it hangs down, seen plenty get caught up on the transfer. Look at most hardcore Sierra's and the transfers all show signs of being bashed

X quite a lot, really.

Also, dropping the weight of the car onto the transfer is a good way of breaking mounts and bending arms.

Steve.

33"s = breakstuff. personally i think a bashplate would make more sense

Good on ya Wideaz, if someone doesnt give things like this a go we'll never know if it works. Yes it might look a bit shonky, but he can always improve it later.
Make sure you Tonka so if things break, it all hasn't been in vain.

One other thing, how is it at 100km/h. is there any vibrations ?

somethings gone wrong with the edit tool.
. = re post

all finshed now
sprayed black, nylon nuts heaps of thread nothing to complain about now

at 100 its better than before less vibrations and much smoother
so recommend for everyone
got 2 wheels off the ground just before. No probs with the tailshafts all good.

just cruizin' wrote:

mrRocky wrote:honestly its not like the transfer hits with such a swb car, i see no need for it.

What???

It's in the centre of the car and it hangs down, seen plenty get caught up on the transfer. Look at most hardcore Sierra's and the transfers all show signs of being bashed

I bash the shit out of my transfer nearly every time i go out and im spoa on 2 " springs with 32's sounds like a top idea to me if it works ok on the unis

i lifted mine only 1" and its basically level with the bottom of my chassis rails. If you wanted to put a skid plate underneath and needed more space for bracing etc behind it then i'd say go a bit more. But if not then i see no need to put the uni's on a bigger angle.

I drive mostly rocky stuff, and lifting the case 1" & having the exhaust re-worked higher (also above chassis line) was the difference between getting hi-centred on a rock & risking damage, & driving straight over it.

wanting to fit a bashplate is exactly why you'd lift the case - so it's level with the bottom of the chassis to allow a pan to be fitted.

I don't like bashplates that sit under the stock transfer - they look like anchors to me.

In any case, the reduction in jackshaft angle (and the imrprovement in vibrations) is enough to want to lift the case anyway.

Steve.

alittle off topic but steve have you put a bash plate on your ute?

with a roktoy ring on my case + lifting it the ring almost sits above the chassis the jack shaft is almost flat and i would say it works alot better.

the only issue i have with lifting the case is its more difficult to put in / remove

ofr57 wrote:alittle off topic but steve have you put a bash plate on your ute?

with a roktoy ring on my case + lifting it the ring almost sits above the chassis the jack shaft is almost flat and i would say it works alot better.

the only issue i have with lifting the case is its more difficult to put in / remove

Not when the bodies off

Dee wrote:i lifted mine only 1" and its basically level with the bottom of my chassis rails. If you wanted to put a skid plate underneath and needed more space for bracing etc behind it then i'd say go a bit more. But if not then i see no need to put the uni's on a bigger angle.

I drive mostly rocky stuff, and lifting the case 1" & having the exhaust re-worked higher (also above chassis line) was the difference between getting hi-centred on a rock & risking damage, & driving straight over it.

What method did you use to lift it only 1"?

just another thing on the uni angles - you can buy quite cheap a wedge to sit between the leaves and the perch to rotate the diff a little and improve the angle... its a cheap and effective solution to the uni angles.

hyzook wrote:

Dee wrote:i lifted mine only 1" and its basically level with the bottom of my chassis rails. If you wanted to put a skid plate underneath and needed more space for bracing etc behind it then i'd say go a bit more. But if not then i see no need to put the uni's on a bigger angle.

I drive mostly rocky stuff, and lifting the case 1" & having the exhaust re-worked higher (also above chassis line) was the difference between getting hi-centred on a rock & risking damage, & driving straight over it.

What method did you use to lift it only 1"?

25 x 50 mm RHS

no my mate machined solid steel mounts with female threads.
Thread it onto stock mount & then fasten it with bolt through chassis.