NL Service Hints & Tips

[GOONA]

Hey lads,

I have a '99 NL Escape which is coming up for its 170,000km service. It's currently got about 168K on it and (unfortunately) i'm driving around 700km's a week so hopefully i'll be doing this next week. I only got it at 162K.

Now my question is: should i do all the oils now i.e. motor, diffs, gearbox and transfercase or wait till the 200K service? I'm thinking i should do them all now so i know its all done.

Also, which is a better manual to get, the Haynes or Gregories, what do you guys use/reccomend?

Now for which oils to use:
Motor: Not really sure on this have heard of lots of people using different things, especially to quiten the lifters up. Am thinking a 10W50 or so...maybe castrol.

Gearbox: Maybe VMX-M 75W/85...any ideas?

Rear Diff: Castrol LSX90 seems to be a popular choice

Front Diff: Castrol EPX 80W/90...

Is there anything else i should be doing as well?

This will be the first time i'm doing this so will appreciate any help that you guys can offer, although i have a rough idea of what i'm doing (just gotta find the time to do it all).

Thanks in advance,

Shaun

[-Scott-]

I've always found the Gregorys manuals to look more useful, although I believe they're both now owned by the same company.

For my NJ, I think the Gregorys manual is better, but it doesn't list the 3.5. I guess there's another manual which does cover the 3.5, but I haven't really looked. Have you looked at whats available online?

If in doubt, change it out. Change the oils now - you can always do it again.

A 10W50 sounds like a good compromise for engine oil, although the 10W rating could be a little low for an Aussie summer.

Castrol VMX-M was reportedly developed by Castrol for Mitsubishi gearboxes. I have a notchy shift, and bought the recommended (expensive ) synthetic oil - I didn't notice a difference.

I've been using Penrite oils in diffs/transfer, and have no complaints. From memory, I've used the same oil in all three, with ProMa everywhere but rear axle (clutch pack LSD.) It's been too long since I last bought any, so not sure what version. Frank (Bitsamissin) has posted about Penrite oils in the past - try searching.

Other than that, confirm that the cam belt was changed on schedule - the 3.5 isn't a "free-spinner" so failure will be catastrophic.

[NJV6]

I'd be doing everything now and then doing everything again at 200k... (except the engine of course)

[date]

If you are unsure about the service history, I would as a cheap presaution replace the brake and clutch fluids. The fluids are hygroscopic (absorb water) and this can cause corrosion in the master cylinder or the wheels cylinders. Probably more importantly, it lowers the boiling point of the fluid which could cause the brake pedal to go to the floor under emergency braking. Not good.

I too have used synthetic oils in the g'box, transfer case and diffs, but noticed no difference other than to my pocket. As yet, I haven't found an engine oil which quietens the valve lifters. They shut up for a while, but clatter after say 1000 kms. The problem is that they don't do this consistently. A good precaution to change the oils in the gear systems anyway because the vehicle may have been swimming in the past, and there may be some water in the diffs etc.

[Pharb]

Re tyres - I have 235/85R16 (32) in place of the std 29" (fitted by the previous owner). A second hand set of 16 x 6.5" from a similar vintage Triton, Rodeo, Jackeroo.... (Hilux are to small in the centre to fit over the hub by a few mm) can be had very cheaply on EBAY or similar. Tyres a little cheaper than 265s but a bit more limited in choice (ie I don't think available in Mickeys or other "sporty" brands, Coopers and BFG have them though). Change of speedo driven gear means speedo is more acurate than before. Gearing - about 1/2 a gear difference (I swapped with a mates 29"s for a while so he could try the 32s). Sometimes its half a gear to high, sometimes the 29s were half a gear to low, 6 of one, 1/2 a dozen of the other. Main downfall, they don't look as good as 265s.

Re trans oil - when we first got this car I rang the Mobil lube line to enquire about the gearbox oil and a bit by chance was told Mobilfluid 424 (a tractor transmission/hydraulic oil) was a good alternative, which coincidently I had some left over from a previous job. This worked well until I had a chance recently (after a number of oil changes) to get some synthetic at a good price. After a day I took the synthetic out and put some fresh 424 in.

(I think 424 has been replaced with a newer "model" oil)


Peter H

2.8TDI GLX

[GOONA]

Cheers for the replies, will get into it this arvo, will let you know how it all goes.

[GOONA]

Had a crack at it this arvo, but could not for the life of me get the front diff or gearbox drain/fill plugs off and that's after spraying them with a very liberal dosing of WD40. Will have to go get something for it tomoroow, any suggestions?

Also, when you fill the tranny/diffs/gearbox you just fill till it starts overflowing correct? Theres no special fill line or anything is there?

Oh and for the record went with the castrol products, mostly due to price and also i couldn't find any penrite gear oils let alone at a good price...

The timing belt/cam belt was changed at 105k so i'll do it again at 200 or just before the trip next year, which ever occurs first.

Has anyone here used the factory service manual off mitsubishilinks.com? I downloaded the motors one and the 'Pajero Sport' but it appears to be the normal model (which is good) or have i missed something somewhere? How do you guys find them?