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Factory locker questions?
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 3:52 pm
by Grantw
Okay,
An relatively easy job is getting too hard. It would seem that i am missing something. For you who dont know, I am fitting a factory rear locker from a 3500cc paj into mine.
The complete centre and new axel have been installed, connected the r/d lock switch in the factory hole, mounted the pump/compressor in the factory spot, becuase mitsu use the same loom for lsd and rear locked vehicles I found the connections and wires easily and have hooked them up.
But she dont go. It all works before i put it in the car, I am just curious as to whether there is like a mini ecu or control box for the rear locker that i havent got.
RE
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 4:05 pm
by Grantw
OR CAN I.....
Avoid all this and just use the arb rear locker switch running directly to the compressor/pump thingy...
I was trying so hard to make it all look factory but i am getting the poos so all that is out the window.
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 5:00 pm
by Bitsamissin
Yep thats what Ian Sharpe did.
The factory locker switch is a bitch and there is a diff lock ECU that you are missing.
Ian bypassed all this and just used an ARB locker switch and he also wired it up to the factory diff lock light on the dash.
I think he did it that when the locker switch is pressed the compressor comes on automatically and the light on the dash comes on.
From memory he said it was quite easy.
May pay to PM him for more details.
RE
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 5:23 pm
by Grantw
yep thanks frank. Thats exactly what we are doing now.... It is more than just a bitch to use that factory switch. Because I was so focused on having look factory, I did not look at other options. With 2 nights wasted, i am finally going to get it finished.
Thanks for the reassurance Frank!
Anyword on your sas project?
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 5:49 pm
by Bitsamissin
Yes work should start in about 2 months as the guy who is doing it is too busy at the moment. When it's in the workshop I'll post all details on mods etc. But it will be one of a kind that I can say
Frank.
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:25 pm
by tritonasuras
look forward to seeing this project frank... as im sure most people will...
very interested in your left-over bits ( read many .....).
hope it all goes to plan..
Rob
Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 12:07 am
by DougH
Yes you can hook it direct like frank says.
Your going to need a regulator that can go pretty low, and you also are going to need a three port air solinoid, or manual air vavle. You cant just use a simple ball valve because you need to be able to vent the pressure in the line when you turn off the air flow, or it wont turn off.
I think the lockers works on 15 psi or so, something real low.
Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 7:39 am
by Ian Sharpe
Grant,
the easiest thing to do as suggested is to by pass the ecu & run the compressor either using a diff lock switch like ARB makes, this is the simplest way since the ARB switch is simply an on off toggle switch. You probably wont even need a relay as the compressor drawss only .5 amp.
You could also run it like I did & that is use a factory Mitsu diff lock switch (they are about $70) if you didnt get one. If you use this then you have to use a pulse relay since the Mitsu switch is not a normal on off toggle switch.
I got a pulse relay out of a Datsun 180B they use them for the headlights. But you can buy them new I believe.
That way you can make it look a bit more original that using the blue ARB switch.
Also i ran an active from the actual switch in the diff to the dash light in the console. that way when the locker is in operation the diff in the diagram is illuminated behind just like in the factory setup. Just pick up a neutral from somewhere close to complete the circuit. You could cheat a bit & just run the active from the compressor switch but thats not really a true indication of whether the diff is locked or not.
anyway you should also remember that by by passing the ecu, it is possible to operate the locker at any time, ie in 2 wheel mode etc. & even when travelling fast on the road, so put the switch somewhere where it wont get knocked on by mistake when you dont want it to.
ARB have it so that the compressor switch has to be on before the locker can be activated, thats a good safeguard I think & I will probably use that method if I get the front locker that ARB have been developing.
Its a bit of effort doing this yourself but in the end it is well worth it, believe me.
cheers
if you need more help email me at
valian@goulburn.net.au
Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:14 am
by redrocket
Umm if i had only read this earlier. I have a factory ecu if you want it grant? then you can keep your factory look. You can wire up an arb like i did and just hook the power off the switch onto the right pin in the original loom and you don't need to run any new wires. same goes for the activation light. just need a jumper to go back thru the original loom and its done. I would estimate it being a 10minute job all up. Arb switch is $15. I have a factory locker switch you can have as well.
Dough. The compressor in the factory locker set up only runs about 4-5psi and when it reaches this pressure it stalls and seals the line. when you turn it off it back spins and releases the pressure to unlock the diff. Its a very simple set up.
Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:19 am
by Noisey
4-5psi is bugger all.
The ARB ranges from 80-105psi.
Wonder why there is such a large difference?
Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 12:26 am
by 4runna
Any chance I can ask how much the factory locker setup is worth??
Took the new car for a run today, and the LSD is quite good but I do miss the air locker I had in the old 4runner, so would like to look into this.
Rob
RE
Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 11:05 am
by Grantw
Same as what you would pay for a new arb inc compressor... if it for a 3.5L you have no choice but to pay through the nose.... as they are rare as!